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Author Topic: WW W  (Read 2568 times)
John316
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« Reply #15 on: January 18, 2014, 02:38:21 PM »

And I took them off and never looked back. Really glad to have them gone. They looked nice, but I really like to see my wheels.

John
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MCI 1995 DL3. DD S60 with a Allison B500.
Lin
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« Reply #16 on: January 18, 2014, 08:08:21 PM »

Now I'm confused, John.  I thought you stopped looking back when you removed the mirrors!
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« Reply #17 on: January 18, 2014, 08:13:10 PM »

We removed a set of Balance Masters from the front wheels of a bus today that was ticking like crazy he had aluminum wheels,simulators are not a good idea IMO
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chessie4905
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« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2014, 10:54:03 AM »

   After dealing with those things on the 4104, I'll never use them again. What a pita to remove and re-install. Ours had aluminum pipes that supported them on the rear with nylon lug nut shape retainers with chrome lug nut covers. Rear covers stuck out to match front wheels. Looked nice though...so so to me.
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Van
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« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2014, 12:05:13 PM »

Tom talk to Gary @ BB there now seems to be a supply of aluminum rims flowing, what with all the bus dis-mantling going on by Richard up in the north end. Wink

 V.
« Last Edit: January 19, 2014, 12:07:30 PM by Van » Logged

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lvmci
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« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2014, 01:17:59 PM »

Thanks Van, starting a 5 day job, took off the simulators, right side, no noise, lvmci...
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lvmci
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« Reply #21 on: January 19, 2014, 05:28:41 PM »

Hi All, well John and Lin were correcto! Simulators indeed were the problemo. Took them off, passenger side, clicking sound gone! Included is some pics on how Im solving the issue. Turns out, the wheels are two nuts short of a proper set. The hollow bolts coming off the wheel lugs, 1 1/4" and the nuts to fit it, were just tightened down with a gap between the wheel, simulator and hub cap of about 1/2". I put two rubber washers and a fiber washer on the wheel side  and a fiber washer on the hub cap side, thereby holding the simulator and hub cap in a rubber mounted pressure sandwich. Will have to check every so often for tightness, but I think this will solve the clicking sound. Im happy to know the bearings, lube and most importantly the rear brakes are fine, but kicking my self for about $3/400 worth of looksee by ww williams for a non existent problem, I guess its the cost of finding out stuff for my bus, lvmci...
« Last Edit: January 19, 2014, 05:50:49 PM by lvmci » Logged

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lvmci
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« Reply #22 on: January 19, 2014, 05:32:37 PM »

With the hub caps on, then the nut cap,( a hub cap for a nut.), lvmci...
« Last Edit: January 19, 2014, 05:52:00 PM by lvmci » Logged

MCI5A 8V71 Allison MT643
lostagain
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« Reply #23 on: January 19, 2014, 06:05:42 PM »

Tom, my solution to your problem would be to toss those simulators in the trash. I prefer bare wheels, so I am able to feel for unusual heat from the hub or brakes, and look for loose wheel nuts or cracked rims when I do my pre trip and stop while on a trip.
Aluminum wheels look nice. Also steel wheels can look nice when freshly painted.

JC
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JC
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John316
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« Reply #24 on: January 20, 2014, 06:06:38 AM »

Lin,

I find it helps the aerodynamics of the bus, if we don't have mirrors Grin.

LV, glad you found the source of the problem. Always something.

John
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MCI 1995 DL3. DD S60 with a Allison B500.
lvmci
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« Reply #25 on: January 20, 2014, 06:21:53 AM »

Thanks JC & John, what have you done with your bare wheels? Painted or polished? Black or silver? I kinda like the stainless look, but I'm open to other looks, as long as its not the cork screw effect that might messmerize other drivers as I pass them! Lvmci...
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John316
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« Reply #26 on: January 20, 2014, 06:34:53 AM »

Thanks JC & John, what have you done with your bare wheels? Painted or polished? Black or silver? I kinda like the stainless look, but I'm open to other looks, as long as its not the cork screw effect that might messmerize other drivers as I pass them! Lvmci...

Ahem...ours were painted at one point. lol

They need to be painted again, but right now they are just bare.
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MCI 1995 DL3. DD S60 with a Allison B500.
lostagain
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« Reply #27 on: January 20, 2014, 06:37:19 AM »

Tom, on my old bus, I kept the steel wheels painted white. Rustoleum. Touch up once a year to cover up scratches from demounting/mounting. On my current 5C, I have aluminum Alcoas that are polished. I re-polished them once last winter one day that I was really bored.

JC
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JC
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1977 MC5C, 6V92/HT740
luvrbus
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« Reply #28 on: January 20, 2014, 07:47:20 AM »

Several I know of that replaced their steel wheels have went the powder coating route done in chrome or aluminum they look good,tough and easy to clean fwiw
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RJ
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« Reply #29 on: January 20, 2014, 09:52:53 AM »

Tom -

I vote with JC - White Rustoleum paint, can be done with the wheels on the coach.

Another benefit:  IF you happen to have a lug nut that loosens, you'll easily see the rust mark streaks it will leave radiating out from the points of the nut.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
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