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Author Topic: V730 Leak  (Read 1000 times)
gus
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« on: April 09, 2014, 06:33:38 PM »

It leaks 2 Qts overnight at the connection between the adapter ring and the trans flange at the engine.

It doesn't leak much underway, mostly after stopping as there is no pressure here.

Since this space has only the flex connector and input shaft I assume it should have no fluid in it. However, it has a gasket so maybe it is supposed to have fluid?

Some is seeping at the stud, but most is coming from the mating surface in spite of the appearance in the pics.

I used two different types of epoxy outside the seam but neither stuck because it is so hard to keep the surface free of fluid long enough for the epoxy to set. I cleaned it well with starting fluid every attempt. I just peeled the epoxy off today with my box knife!

I'm thinking of using the epoxy that works under water. Any better ideas?

I do not want to separate this contact area just to seal if if I can do otherwise!! This is a big, heavy thing to attempt to separate for an old wimp like me!!
« Last Edit: April 09, 2014, 06:50:45 PM by gus » Logged

PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
gus
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« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2014, 06:46:12 PM »

This is a pic of the leak.

The white arrow shows the exact leak area, the gasket edge is sticking out at the joint but is very hard to see. The gasket looks just like the seam, enlarge the pic and you can see it.

It is not leaking from the stud but running onto it.

It doesn't look like much of a leak but this is only two min after I wiped it clean and the tran is a gallon low, it is much worse when it is full!
« Last Edit: April 09, 2014, 06:51:44 PM by gus » Logged

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Utahclaimjumper
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« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2014, 07:00:36 PM »

 Like it or not, there is only one way to fix a leak like this,, take it apart and do it right!.>>>Dan ($#!% happens)
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Utahclaimjumper 
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« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2014, 07:01:40 PM »

I suppose you could just let it leak down until no more leaks out.  Then it should be easier to clean to try your external fix.  You could even collect the oil in a pan, filter it and reuse it.
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« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2014, 07:04:21 PM »

An "external fix" is no fix at all, if you are successful, it only means a ball busting job for someone else.>>>Dan
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Utahclaimjumper 
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luvrbus
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« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2014, 07:24:20 PM »

It is really not that hard to pull and fix Gus the damn drive shaft, the 4 bolts on the bottom and the one under the starter is the hardest part it won't be long till it really pours. Install a new 2 way oil seal while you are there you may need help with that part the flywheel is one heavy sucker you won't be picking it up by hand  Roll Eyes

good luck
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gus
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« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2014, 08:31:49 PM »

Thanks, I was afraid to that!

Easy for you all to say, I don't have the equipment or muscle for this job:)

Also, I'm old enough to be a grandfather to most of you!!

Why does this adapter have a gasket, two actually, if it isn't supposed to contain fluid??
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« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2014, 08:37:37 PM »

LOL if you were old enough to be my grandfather you have been around since the moon was the size of a golf ball They have oil in that section that is why the starter has a gasket
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« Reply #8 on: April 11, 2014, 06:52:14 PM »

Cliff,

What is the closest place east of N central Arkansas I can get to replace the seal?

I emailed BK, he is right on my way for my May trip.

Aren't you in FL?
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TomC
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« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2014, 08:26:36 PM »

The V730, as Cliff said, has oil in it between the engine and trans right at what we would call the bell housing. Pull that nut off and let it drain out. Then reseal and tighten down. Should be alright rather then having to take it all apart. Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
gus
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« Reply #10 on: April 12, 2014, 04:17:34 PM »

Tom,

Cliff did confuse me a bit. He said it was the shaft seal then said that section has oil in it? I thought he meant engine oil!!

However, I did find in the conversion manual that that section does, indeed, contain trans oil and is filled up to almost the shaft level. There is a scavenger line at that level to return oil to the pan. That explains a lot including the gaskets.

Which nut serves as the drain?

This is a great relief after thinking the shaft had to be removed:)

The conversion manual also says to use Dexron, Dexron II, C-3 or C-4. Makes me think almost any AT trans fluid is OK?

No answer from BK. I noticed his last post is 2012?
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gus
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« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2014, 08:12:20 PM »

Update,

I found three very hard to reach tran to adapter ring bolts loose, tightened them which reduced leak about 80-90%.  My theory is these loose bolts caused the gasket to be chewed up.

Then I found this wonderful epoxy called JB Waterweld which works under water and resists all oils, gas and etc. Works on gas and diesel tank holes. A miracle!!

Nothing to lose so I used it on the outside of the joint and so far it has stopped the leak. I slapped it on while it was seeping slightly and the seeping stopped much to my amazement. I finished it up today and will check again and take a pic tomorrow. I don't see how it can possibly hold with fluid coming out while being applied but tomorrow will tell.
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Oonrahnjay
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« Reply #12 on: April 23, 2014, 06:40:21 AM »

    Quick question (sorry it's off-topic but I need to know) -- what the difference between a 730 and a 731 transmission?   Thanks,  Bruce H   
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Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long
6-cyl, 4-stroke, Leyland O-680 engine

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« Reply #13 on: April 23, 2014, 08:28:06 AM »

Bruce,

731 is electronically controlled.

Bob
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P8M4905A-1308, 8V71 w/V730
Custom Coach Conversion
Duluth, GA
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« Reply #14 on: April 23, 2014, 08:41:54 AM »

Bruce,  731 is electronically controlled.  Bob 

    Thanks, that helps!   BH
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Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long
6-cyl, 4-stroke, Leyland O-680 engine

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)
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