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Author Topic: Getting under a bus  (Read 1384 times)
Cosmo
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« on: July 05, 2014, 07:25:49 AM »

What is the safest way to get under a bus? I'm wanting to get to that thick rubber piece that hangs down (mine is missing) between the rear axle and motor. I'm needing to remove all those bolts to get the torn piece out and to put a new piece in. I have a 6 ton and 20 ton bottle jack, removed the rear wheels once, so I know the jacks work. Just different to crawl all the way under and to be there for awhile. Any suggestions? Thanks
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"I have bus fever, kinda like Harley crotch"
1964 GM PD4106 - 2473
DD V8-71/ Spicer 4 speed/ Wind
"Waitin' for the Bus"
Emcemv
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« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2014, 07:34:16 AM »

I crank my air up in the bags to get the bus as high as I can then I have some 6x6 blocking I use to put under it. I can work pretty well under it without jacking.  Mine has adjustable air to the bags so I can raise/lower it pretty well.

Most important is don't get under it without some substantial blocking.
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Bruce & Nancy Fagley
1973 MCI MC-7 Combo Freighter
450HP DD 8V-92T 2000 Reman
HT 740 Allison
Woodbury CT.
bevans6
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1980 MCI MC-5C




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« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2014, 07:44:06 AM »

Make some run-up ramps 6" to 8" tall, drive the bus up on them, then use jack stands or wooden blocks under the body support hard-point (check your manual).  That should get you high enough.

Brian
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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Spicer 8844 4 speed Zen meditation device
Vintage race cars -
1978 Lola T440 Formula Ford
1972 NTM MK-4 B/SR
Cary and Don
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« Reply #3 on: July 05, 2014, 08:07:00 AM »

It also adds to the safety to put blocks between the body and the frame at the point the body will settle down when all the air is out of it.  There are rubber pads there. We also use run up blocks. A lot more trust worthy than a jack that could fail.

Don and Cary
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1973 05 Eagle
Neoplan AN340
sparkplug188
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1979 Model 5 Eagle - 45/102 8v92 HT740




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« Reply #4 on: July 05, 2014, 09:03:59 AM »

I use 20 ton jacks and 20 ton jack stands positioned under the axles.  IMO jacks and jack stands should be sold as a pair.  One isn't safe without the other.
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Cosmo
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« Reply #5 on: July 05, 2014, 12:34:29 PM »

A lot of good suggestions! There was man recently crushed by his truck down in OKC, not my idea of a way to go. I agree with you spark plug, they should sell Jack stands with jacks, just good business there. I'm going to cut myself a couple 8" drive up blocks. Really only need to lift one side to do the work that I need to do, wife said I could dig hole. LMAO
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"I have bus fever, kinda like Harley crotch"
1964 GM PD4106 - 2473
DD V8-71/ Spicer 4 speed/ Wind
"Waitin' for the Bus"
BRUISER
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« Reply #6 on: July 05, 2014, 02:02:16 PM »

I bought 4 railroad ties. Cut and angle at the end of and secured two together to each other and to the ground. Now I can back the bus up on them and the rear is about 6" or so off the  ground.
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iMPAKS.com
Raleigh, NC
1983 MCI MC-9
gus
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« Reply #7 on: July 05, 2014, 03:29:41 PM »

I NEVER get under a bus unless the wheels are on blocks, no jack is that trustworthy.

Always block the suspension too, as already posted. Don't trust the air bags.
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
Dave5Cs
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1979 MCI MC5Cs 6V-71 HT-740 Allison, Roseville, CA




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« Reply #8 on: July 05, 2014, 03:37:21 PM »

Says in the manual not to lift just one side it can tweak the frame and or body. I get my air bags as high as they will go. backup or drive up on my 2 ramps 8 inches by 31 inches long. Block the wheels. Put 4inch steel blocks in between the bump stops for extra safety that way it can not drop down. I also buildup 4x6's flat with 3/4 inch ply between each layer under the jacking points that it shows in the books. I use 20 ton air over bottle jacks and 12 ton air over if needed to go higher under axles and then keep building with the blocking and ply. I never put anything under the Body because it says in the books that if it comes down at all the body will bend. Only at jacking points and bulkheads, axles etc.

Dave5Cs
« Last Edit: July 05, 2014, 03:39:33 PM by Dave5Cs » Logged

TomC
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« Reply #9 on: July 06, 2014, 04:38:46 PM »

Make run up blocks out of 2x8's. I have four stacked and is high enough to get my fat belly under when the air suspension is deflated (I have manual and automatic control). Then if something does happen and the air suspension suddenly deflates, you're still safe. Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
brmax
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« Reply #10 on: July 06, 2014, 07:07:45 PM »

If I was doing this again ?>though happy with the 2x10 style I made 4 of from pictures of others before me, Anyhow I would suggest taking a trip to your local landscape place and see if they have some new treated oak 8x8 or 6x6's I think this would be a great thing and cheaper than what I did. If possible a new rail road tie with not much creosote couldn't be beat, but finding one goodluck.
Good Day
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1992 MC9
6V92
Allison
krank
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« Reply #11 on: July 06, 2014, 08:55:41 PM »

My life is worth more than what these cost me. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&docid=Jrp4mGsEl2OjRM&tbnid=nF61zb3Erfs4rM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.acklandsgrainger.com%2FAGIPortalWeb%2FWebSource%2FProductDisplay%2FglobalProductDetailDisplay.do%3Fitem_code%3DWSWTR20W&ei=whm6U9TRLYqNyATJr4LACw&bvm=bv.70138588,d.aWw&psig=AFQjCNHtorsprjvzo0ud67ZpXP6QqKnH-Q&ust=1404791616755411

Not too portable out from the shop mind you ...
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Jim Eh.
1996 MC12
6V92TA / HT741D
(Sunchaser)
Winnipeg, MB.
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« Reply #12 on: July 07, 2014, 12:42:42 PM »

I found pics of mine


took 4 railroad ties and then used the chainsaw to cut an angle to drive up on them.. worked great.






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iMPAKS.com
Raleigh, NC
1983 MCI MC-9
Nineforever
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100 klms south of Yellowknife NWT Canada




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« Reply #13 on: July 08, 2014, 09:36:11 PM »

Run up blocks are the way to go , big enough to handle some weight small enough to man handle and fit into one of your luggage bays .
I've been in and around busses for a long time but still learning
Do we really need to have run up blocks under both tires on the drive , to be honest ive never bothered
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Hyway 3 100 klms south of Yellowknife NWT Canada
grantgoold
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« Reply #14 on: July 09, 2014, 06:10:46 AM »

The only really safe method is using a pit! Since those are difficult to find or build, I would crib the frame in several places using only railroad ties bolted together with all thread. Then I would have a set of cribbing that is a back up should the first set fail.  I would also have a 20 ton jack set up and under the bus, ready to handle the weight as a third safety feature. Finally, I would never work under the bus alone. Always have someone ready to take emergency action with the jacks or 911. Again, a pit is the best option! I know, that is the pits! Grin Grin Grin
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Grant Goold
1984 MCI 9
Way in Over My Head!
Citrus Heights, California
bigred
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« Reply #15 on: July 13, 2014, 02:33:15 PM »

Guy's I love playing with my old bus as well as any one,but when it comes to getting under one of these things,I had just as soon pay someone to do it.Had  an old car fall on me once and even tho this was some 55 years ago ,I am very uncomfortable when I have to get my whole body under there!
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