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Author Topic: Pocket door  (Read 5383 times)
Ednj
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« on: April 24, 2006, 06:46:58 PM »

Hello all,
I’m now making my pocket doors between my master bedroom and my walk through bathroom.
My question is should I make the door hinges out of level so that the double doors will open automatically or leave them level?
If I leave them level I will have to tie the doors open, and tie the doors shut.
If I leave the doors auto open I only have to latch them closed even when underway.
In my thoughts I think I should leave the doors level, to open or close equally.
I will be done with this in the next couple of days so I will try to post pictures of what I did.
comments? Huh Undecided
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MCI-9
Sussex county, Delaware.
See my picture's at= http://groups.yahoo.com/group/busshellconverters/
That's Not Oil Dripping under my Bus, It's Sweat from all that Horsepower.
----- This space for rent. -----
FloridaCliff
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« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2006, 06:56:16 PM »

Ed,

I have two pocket doors.

One for the bedroom and one for the seperate toilet area.

My thoughts are that they will probably be open 99% of the time, so make the hinges level and lock open.
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1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

"There are basically two types of people. People who accomplish things, and people who claim to have accomplished things. The first group is less crowded."
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Ace
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« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2006, 07:13:23 PM »

Ed I made my pocket doors using a simple sheet of plywood and mounted it using an extended drawer slide at the top and bottom. You can see part of it while it was being built at this link. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. The door stays open almost all the time except when using the toilet and when we travel, we latch it using a brass slide bolt. It slides open and closed very easy and doesn't take up as much space as a home type pocket door.

http://groups.msn.com/AceRossiMotorsports/foolsgold.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=518

Since this picture was taken it has been finished with laminate and tested over a period of about a year now with NO faults! Smiley

Ace
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Ednj
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« Reply #3 on: April 27, 2006, 07:16:04 PM »

Ace , I will be doing something similar, but I didn't get anything done this week.(in the bus)
I did get to see for the first tme what my pickup looks like on a flat bed tow truck.
The water pump went with no warning and I lost power steering and breaks, the shaft broke and the belt wrapped up everything.
So between the Geo last week and the water pump this week, I'm missing my bus.
One good thing was I got to try my towing program that I got when I bought my bus.
The guy said " I never saw a plan with such a hi amount". I told him rehook it and lets go to Orlando, FL.
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MCI-9
Sussex county, Delaware.
See my picture's at= http://groups.yahoo.com/group/busshellconverters/
That's Not Oil Dripping under my Bus, It's Sweat from all that Horsepower.
----- This space for rent. -----
plyonsMC9
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« Reply #4 on: April 28, 2006, 05:46:08 AM »

Ed I made my pocket doors using a simple sheet of plywood and mounted it using an extended drawer slide at the top and bottom. You can see part of it while it was being built at this link. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. The door stays open almost all the time except when using the toilet and when we travel, we latch it using a brass slide bolt. It slides open and closed very easy and doesn't take up as much space as a home type pocket door.

http://http://groups.msn.com/AceRossiMotorsports/foolsgold.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=518

Since this picture was taken it has been finished with laminate and tested over a period of about a year now with NO faults! Smiley

Ace


Nice picture Ace - I had always wondered how this pocket door construction might look as I have considered this kind of project many times over the years.

Best Regards, Phil
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Geoff
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« Reply #5 on: April 28, 2006, 07:15:23 AM »

I am trying to follow what Ed wants to do, but I am totally confused as to how you use 'hinges' on pocket doors!  What homes use is an upper rail with wheel brackets that attach to the sliding door.  What Ace and I have done is put a drawer slide at the bottom of a 3/4" piece of plywood (door), so the door moves on the slide.  What I also had to do was put a sliding door rail with the wheel brackets on top to support the door when it closes.  To clarify, what I have is the upper home-style rail and wheel brackets for a pocket door, but am using a 3/4" piece of oak plywood for the door, with a drawer slide at the bottom to keep the door on track.  The doors stay closed when underway by using home flip latches that normally are used on front/rear doors as an extra lock for security.

I use two 3/4" door slides that come together at the center to close off the rear bedroom from the bathroom, and another 3/4" door slide to close off the bathroom from the kitchen.  The system works great, you just have to be sure to secure the doors before you drive off or you will ruin the drawer slide if the doors fly open past the stop!

--Geoff
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Geoff
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Ednj
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« Reply #6 on: April 28, 2006, 04:38:43 PM »

I am trying to follow what Ed wants to do, but I am totally confused as to how you use 'hinges' on pocket doors! What Ace and I have done is put a drawer slide at the bottom

I use two 3/4" door slides that come together at the center to close off the rear bedroom from the bathroom, and another 3/4" door slide to close off the bathroom from the kitchen.  The system works great, you just have to be sure to secure the doors before you drive off or you will ruin the drawer slide if the doors fly open past the stop!

--Geoff
>
>
Geoff,
Hinges’ was the wrong word. I am doing something very similar to what you and Ace have done only instead of putting the slides on the top & bottom; I want to put them on the walls.
I have drawer slides like the heavy duty ones on large toolboxes; I want to mount them the same as on a toolbox.
That is why if I put them out of level the doors will close automatically.
Yes I know I will see the slide mechanisms when the doors are closed, but that will only be when using the porcelain throne, and only from the bathroom side.

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MCI-9
Sussex county, Delaware.
See my picture's at= http://groups.yahoo.com/group/busshellconverters/
That's Not Oil Dripping under my Bus, It's Sweat from all that Horsepower.
----- This space for rent. -----
Ace
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« Reply #7 on: April 28, 2006, 06:38:48 PM »

Sorry Ed but I'm still a little confused as to what your wanting to do too with the slides on the walls!

Ace
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DrivingMissLazy
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« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2006, 05:26:46 AM »

Sorry Ed but I'm still a little confused as to what your wanting to do too with the slides on the walls!

Ace
Sounds to me like he is planning on putting them on the side of the door instead of top or bottom.
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Ednj
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« Reply #9 on: April 29, 2006, 11:24:51 AM »

Sorry Ed but I'm still a little confused as to what your wanting to do too with the slides on the walls!

Ace
>
>
Ok guys sorry for the confusion, I did a mock up of what I'm talking about, here's the pictures=

In the second picture the slide angle is exaggerated, but you can see how the door would stay open, also if I did it this way the gap at the ceiling in pictur#4 wouldn’t be so severe.
Picture 3 is in the open position.
« Last Edit: April 29, 2006, 11:29:18 AM by Ednj » Logged

MCI-9
Sussex county, Delaware.
See my picture's at= http://groups.yahoo.com/group/busshellconverters/
That's Not Oil Dripping under my Bus, It's Sweat from all that Horsepower.
----- This space for rent. -----
Big Tom
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« Reply #10 on: April 29, 2006, 06:04:20 PM »

I use velcro on back edge of door, with other half on back of pocket.  Holds quite well on road, but don't use too much as the jiggling going down the road makes it grip tighter.  Sometimes rather hard to pull loose after a few hundred miles.

There are some neat latches in the RV market for fastening door closed, but are made for doors about an inch and a half thick.  The little bar that you turn to latch is inset flush with door surface and they have a little pull-tab that flips out from edge of door to pull it out of pocket.  Would probably have to build a hollow-core door to use them.
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BJ
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« Reply #11 on: April 29, 2006, 06:31:59 PM »

I used 3/4" birch hanging it the same way you would in your home. purchased a kit from HD. This way you can adjust it needed. found a 1/2" latch with lots of looking. the pull type that pulls out (hook). adjusted the plastic guard rails on the bottom snug so it will not close going down the road.
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Ednj
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« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2006, 05:07:18 PM »

Here's what I did .
I made them level, but check out that valance my wife made.
.
.
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MCI-9
Sussex county, Delaware.
See my picture's at= http://groups.yahoo.com/group/busshellconverters/
That's Not Oil Dripping under my Bus, It's Sweat from all that Horsepower.
----- This space for rent. -----
Ace
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« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2006, 06:22:20 PM »

Ed the Valance your wife made is real attractive...

With all due respect, Not real crazy about the slides showing the way they do! I would think it would look a lot nicer if they weren't seen! Sorry but that's just MY opinion and I'm sure they will work just right for you!

Ace
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Danny
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« Reply #14 on: May 15, 2006, 11:32:00 PM »

I have to add my part - I will looking at this a little bit down the road.  Thanks for the pictures and ideas.  You guys have given me some things to think about. Roll Eyes

Danny
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ceieio
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« Reply #15 on: May 17, 2006, 01:27:15 PM »

Another idea for mounting the drawer slides on the sides would be to build a hollow core door and mount the slide mechanisim on the inside before putting the final skin on.  This approach has an obvious maintenance problem, but it should look OK.  If you could fine a way to conceal screw on one panel, you could service the mechanisim by removing the door skin.  All in all, the top and bottom slides would probably be easier to maintain.
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Craig MC7 - Oregon USA
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