Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
December 20, 2014, 05:49:57 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: If you had an Online Subscription:  It will not get lost in the mail.
   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: [1] 2  All   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Mini Splits  (Read 2977 times)
captain ron
Guest

« on: January 09, 2007, 12:14:50 AM »

I seen a remark or post on here about mini splits then seen a video of incredabus, (which by the way was way cool) and he mentioned mini splits also. Can you guys tell me more about them please.? how they work, setup and cost or anything else you feel is pertenant
Logged
JerryH
Guest

« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2007, 04:27:24 AM »

Ron:
We've put these in kitchens where the house has no AC, client doesn't want to spend the $$$ for whole house AC and they certainly don't want to use a window unit.
The condensor sits outside -- usually small in scale (subject to the over cooling needs).  A small air handler (evaporator) is mounted inside on the wall -- lineset between the two.  They often have a (TV-like) remote control since the indoor unit is usually mounted high.  They work well, they aren't cheap.  Although I do like them, I personally wouldn't use this type of system on my own busconversion.  I'd still use slim profiled rooftop ducted units -- but that's just me.  If I were using a system design for a home, I'd use a conventional home-type heat pump system (1 or 2 of them) with the bus being ducted throughout with conventional indoor air handler.

Jerry H.
Logged
Don4107
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 407





Ignore
« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2007, 08:42:57 AM »

"I'd use a conventional home-type heat pump system"

Are there any conventional units that are 110 volt?  I'm am planing mini-splits in our new project because they are available in 110.  That and  I don't want to listen to any more roof top airs. 
Logged

Don 4107 Eastern Washington
1975 MCI 5B
1966 GM PD 4107 for sale
1968 GMC Carpenter
TomC
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6973





Ignore
« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2007, 08:52:12 AM »

Problem with mini splits that are made for home use is that they are not designed for vibration and movement of the bus.  The systems that come to mind that are made for buses are CruiseAir-compressor and condensor underneath and various kinds of evaporators available.  Then at WWW.Tundra.CC are splits that are designed for over the road truck use-can't get any worse than that.  One is a true basement unit with all in one and then duct the air too and from the inside.  The other is a split system with the condenser outside and the compressor/evaporator inside-typically mounted on the floor with a duct going up to the ceiling.  The compressor box is insulated and cannot here the unit when just a few feet away.  Granted there are cheaper units, but not with the strong design of these units.  Good Luck, TomC
Logged

Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
coachconverter
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 211



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2007, 01:38:10 PM »

Of course there's always the Cruisair Split systems, designed for Boats and RVs.  I have a few in the shop now and am about to install one.

These look like very nice systems, although pricey.  But to me, put the "blow boxes" in an upper cabinet or corner and they'll do the job well.

A bus I've been working on, a 45 foot Prevost, had 4 of these setups 2 in living room, 1 in kitchen and 1 in bedroom.  For heat it has a Aquahot with registers all throughout - a nice setup if you can afford it, I know I can't.

Todd
Logged
Kristinsgrandpa
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 426


1988 Neoplan AN 340, 6V-92 TA DDEC II, HT 748 ATEC




Ignore
« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2007, 05:55:03 PM »

One advantage to the mini-splits is the heating and cooling capacitiy is about the same.

I have two  miuni-splits with 12,000 btu cooling and 12,000 btu heating capacity.

With rooftop units you usually have to install more heat.

Ed
Logged

location: South central Ohio

I'm very conservative, " I started life with nothing and still have most of it left".
JerryH
Guest

« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2007, 07:10:23 PM »

"I'd use a conventional home-type heat pump system"

Are there any conventional units that are 110 volt?  I'm am planing mini-splits in our new project because they are available in 110.  That and  I don't want to listen to any more roof top airs. 

I am curious about that as well.  I know of a coach operator in FL who builds there lease units with home-type heat pumps.  There's decent logic as to the 'why' ... Gensets are capable of producing the needed 240vac ... and in their situation, I am fairly sure they DON'T use shore connections as they're entertainer coaches.

Jerry H.
Logged
Jerry Liebler
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1320




Ignore
« Reply #7 on: January 10, 2007, 09:03:51 AM »

Don,
     It is possible to use a 240 volt unit on 120 volts by adding a transformer.  I'm in the process of installing a 240 volt minisplit (18000 BTU/h) with a transformer.  The heat pump I have requires a minimum 'ampacity' of 9.5 amps at 240.  I have an isolation transformer that's rated at 11.5 amps output that I'll use to 'create' the second half of the 240 volts. The 'running' current of my heat pump is 6.4 amps at 240 so the 120 input to the transformer will be about 13 amps.  I'll be running the heat pump through my SW2512 which will supply the starting surges (from house battery)  and should enable running the unit on the road from coach engine power. 
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
Logged
Don4107
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 407





Ignore
« Reply #8 on: January 10, 2007, 09:58:56 PM »

Jerry, 240 consists of two 'legs' of 120 that are out of phase by 180 degrees.  Just stepping up the 120 with a transformer to 240 will only give you single phase 240 which I don't think the motors in the air conditioner will like.  I would at least test it before you install it in the bus.  If the mini split has ANY solid state components, I think you will fry them with your plan.

Good luck.
Logged

Don 4107 Eastern Washington
1975 MCI 5B
1966 GM PD 4107 for sale
1968 GMC Carpenter
Jerry Liebler
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1320




Ignore
« Reply #9 on: January 11, 2007, 08:06:17 AM »

Don,
     You are misunderstanding what I'm doing.  I'm using a 120 to 120 isolation transformer to reverse the phase of one leg while the other leg is passed straight through.  The result is 3 wires, a neutral and 2 hots.  The neutral and one hot are the 120 input, the second hot comes from the transformer secondary, which has it's other lead connected to neutral, and is 180 degrees out of phase with the input.   From neutral to either hot is 120 but between the hots is 240.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
Logged
belfert
Guest

« Reply #10 on: January 11, 2007, 08:15:46 AM »

Does a mini-split need a neutral?  Normally 220 volt is just two hots and a ground.  Usually only applicances like dryers use 2 hots, a neytral, and a ground.  The neutral is for the 110 volt parts of the dryer.

Brian
Logged
DrivingMissLazy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2634




Ignore
« Reply #11 on: January 11, 2007, 08:20:13 AM »

Does a mini-split need a neutral?  Normally 220 volt is just two hots and a ground.  Usually only applicances like dryers use 2 hots, a neytral, and a ground.  The neutral is for the 110 volt parts of the dryer.

Brian
Brian, you are correct, and you can use any 120 to 240 volt transformer to get the proper voltage. Most step up transformers will also have a center tap to give you a neutral if you need it.
Richard
Logged

Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming:  WOO HOO, what a ride
Don4107
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 407





Ignore
« Reply #12 on: January 11, 2007, 10:40:02 AM »

Jerry,

Glad to hear you have it covered.  In my world an "isolation transformer" is used to isolate equipment that uses an internal hot ground for service/safety.  Just did not want a a fellow 4107 owner "tuning for maximum smoke". Grin

Are you using just the one air?  I'm am thinking a 12K in front and a 9 or 12K in back of our 4107.  Our current bus has poor insulation all over and is a dark color.  That and the added heat from the engine on a travel day makes the bedroom hard to cool for a good nights sleep.  I think I may use the space where the OEM air conditioner compressor was for the rear condenser.  It will be tight but I think it will work.

I think that everyone should have bought an already converted bus as we did to find out what you like and don't about the conversion.  I know it has given me some very definite ideas and plans that would not have been obvious without that experience.  My main lessons are insulation, insulation, insulation and no such thing as too much cooling.

Heres to no smoke,

Don 4107-501

PS What brand mini split did you settle on?


 
Logged

Don 4107 Eastern Washington
1975 MCI 5B
1966 GM PD 4107 for sale
1968 GMC Carpenter
Jerry Liebler
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1320




Ignore
« Reply #13 on: January 11, 2007, 01:46:02 PM »

Don,
     I'm using the 18,000 BTU/h heat pump for the front of the bus and I have a 10,000 BTU/h window AC through the rear cap to cool the bedroom.  And I have a Webasto for heat when it gets too cold.  The rear unit does a real good job keeping the back of the bus cool and it's actually quieter than any roof top I've heard.
The minisplit is replacing two 'portable' heat pumps that simply did not perform up to their specs.  I'm putting the outside unit in the area that used to be the AC condensor.  The indoor unit will be above the living room windows on the road side of the bus.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
Logged
captain ron
Guest

« Reply #14 on: January 11, 2007, 02:15:06 PM »

Jerry, I put my window air in like yours. I have not yet ducted the intakes out the side as you have, don't want to burn up closet space if I don't have to. Can I use the recirculating feature with success? my unit I have now does not have that but will trade up.
Logged
Pages: [1] 2  All   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!