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Author Topic: Screens for GM OEM windows  (Read 598 times)
richard5933
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« on: October 21, 2017, 05:12:35 PM »

Our 4108a has all its factory windows. All are non-opening except for one slider in front and one on opposite corner in the back.

Any one ever add screens to the factory sliding windows on an old GM?

With the budget allows Peninsula Windows are the plan. For now though, we just want to sleep without mosquitoes.

Thanks.

Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108A-125 (Current bus)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (totalled Sept 2017)
Located in beautiful Wisconsin
KD9GRB
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Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 (Current Bus)
1964 GM PD4106-2412
Located in beautiful Wisconsin
KD9GRB
pabusnut
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P8M4905A-333 former MK&O lines #731




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« Reply #1 on: October 21, 2017, 07:32:08 PM »

Richard,

I haven't done it yet on my 4905, but I think it was Fast Fred who told me about this trick. 
You can swing the entire window out after releasing the "emergency escape", and then cover the entire window with a single screen.  wrap it around to the back side of the frame and glue it fast to the aluminum frame.  You can then slide both the front and back open for air.  On my windows, I moved the stop so they open further than factory.  I think I actually lost the stops for a few.

Steve
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Steve Toomey
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dtcerrato
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« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2017, 10:50:14 PM »

Here's some photos of screen inserts made for old style 1953 GM 4104. Two different patterns one for front slider one for rear slider - fit all large sliders. Nylon screen sandwiched & glued into two pieces or 1/8" hardboard (Masonite) & cut to shape to fit into large perimeter frame then slider closes to screen insert. These were homemade 30 years ago & have served us well - no bugs!
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Dan & Sandy
PD4104-129 since 1979
richard5933
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« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2017, 03:26:18 AM »

Here's some photos of screen inserts made for old style 1953 GM 4104. Two different patterns one for front slider one for rear slider - fit all large sliders. Nylon screen sandwiched & glued into two pieces or 1/8" hardboard (Masonite) & cut to shape to fit into large perimeter frame then slider closes to screen insert. These were homemade 30 years ago & have served us well - no bugs!

Dan & Sandy - I love the simplicity of this idea. I've got a LASER engraver that can cut 1/8 board, so once I've got the pattern made for the outline it would be easy to cut out the shapes. This will be one of my winter projects, I hope.
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Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 (Current Bus)
1964 GM PD4106-2412
Located in beautiful Wisconsin
KD9GRB
bevans6
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« Reply #4 on: October 22, 2017, 10:38:25 AM »

I did essentially the same thing as Dan for my MCI sliding window, just a simple frame and screen attached to it.  Removed the safety stops so it can open farther.
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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
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Lin
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1965 MC-5a




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« Reply #5 on: October 22, 2017, 12:25:12 PM »

We have used homemade screens that Velcro to the window frame for many years.  They work fine, but I like yours better.
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HB of CJ
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« Reply #6 on: October 22, 2017, 03:47:10 PM »

Same as Lin and thank you.  We just slid open the windows, (they went up and down) and used Velcro all around outside the window frame.

Then used colored off white bug netting.  Mosquito proof.  The "curtains" were made fairly loose around the window frames.  Easy to make up.

But not so loose they blew around when the bus was rolling down the road. The curtains acted as a gage as to how well the radiator was sucking.

Seems there was a suction partial pressure effect sucking inwards around that big left front mounted radiator.  The curtains showed it.  A big fan.

Crown Supercoach.  Long ago.
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dtcerrato
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« Reply #7 on: October 23, 2017, 06:03:15 AM »

Couple of things I ought to mention is when making the screen frames, use "tempered" (darker & harder) hardboard (Masonite). Seal the internal sandwiched (screen) side of the frames with a varnish or laquer prior to glueing the screen into the sandwiched frame. The outside perimeter of the frame should be belt sanded until it fits into the window track easily prior to sealing it. We used aluminum paint on the outside frames to match the aluminum track in sits in. Sealing the frame up good keeps it's integrity over time from the elements.
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Dan & Sandy
PD4104-129 since 1979
Oonrahnjay
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« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2017, 06:25:30 AM »

      I have a couple of Peninsula Windows for screens so I don't need to "build" screens but I sure like your idea of sandwiched layers to support screens and build up the thickness you need to fit into the rails -- also the way you secure the screens and seal the hardboard is very good.  Good ideas, and nice work.
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Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long
6-cyl, 4-stroke, Leyland O-680 engine

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)
richard5933
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« Reply #9 on: October 23, 2017, 09:16:49 AM »

Since I've got the LASER machine to cut the shapes, I'm thinking of using 3/16 plexi for the layers. It would be easy to bond them together with the screen held in between. I can make practice runs with cardboard until I get the shape just right, and then cut the plexi.
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Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 (Current Bus)
1964 GM PD4106-2412
Located in beautiful Wisconsin
KD9GRB
dtcerrato
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« Reply #10 on: October 23, 2017, 11:55:57 AM »

Plexi would be great & impervious to wicking any moisture but at 3/16" it may be too wide for the main window track (at least on the 4104) thus why I mentioned the need to belt sand the screen frame.
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Dan & Sandy
PD4104-129 since 1979
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