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Author Topic: Tips on winterizing , and how to actually drain the air tanks on an MC9  (Read 456 times)
neoneddy
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« on: October 28, 2017, 10:23:27 AM »

Well the snows of November came early this year, so I'm thinking I better get ol' Red ready for hibernation.

I have no real water systems on the bus currently. But if be curious to know everyone's routine. 

Then lastly how does a fella actually get the drainable air tanks to drain? I tried making a tool with a screw and a 2x4 to use as leverage, specify the tank in the rear in front of the drive axel. I got it to. Spew a little air and just but not much else. I don't dare crawl under it with it aired up only to have it drop.

I should say I tried that while the system was pressurized, should I try more with no pressure? Maybe they would release easier.

I got the service port on the passenger side rear, I opened that up for fun one day and got sprayed with a mix of water and oil, not sure it was ever drained before.




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First time bus owner, long time bus lover  - 1982 MCI MC9 6V92 - Current Status - Livable, still 20-30% more to go.  Video Build Log
brmax
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« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2017, 11:43:59 AM »

Now that some of the tanks have been drained a bit, its time to kick back and find some 2x10 boards for ramp building. Many have found whatever they have handy and plenty of.  So being able to drive the coach up on some 9-10 tall stacked securely boards wil be just the ticket.

Good day
Floyd
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1992 MC9
6V92
Allison
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« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2017, 12:16:39 PM »

I put cable release drain valves on my wet and parking tanks - the ones between the front wheels.  My dry tank is in a little compartment behind the rear luggage bay wall and it has a twist valve that, being sheltered from the weather, actually still works.  The accessory tank under the driver's seat has a regular pull valve.  The ping tank takes a wrench.  If you drain it after the air dryer has purged there will be no pressure there to spray water in your face.

In terms of winterizing, I put RV antifreeze in all of the P-traps, drain the tanks, disconnect the hoses to the water pump, open the drain valve on the water supply line (located at the lowest point in the line) to drain the supply line, empty the hot water heater (makes a big puddle so do that outside), then with the supply lines as empty as possible I hook up shop air with a little doohicky and blow out all of the lines at every faucet and at the commode.  So far that's worked.
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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Spicer 8844 4 speed Zen meditation device
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia
bigred
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« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2017, 02:21:36 PM »

As I posted before ,the instructions that came with my bus,it said to open the low point drains and drain as much water as possible then blow the lines out wit air then remove the water filter and empty it .Well,did all that .In true COUNTRY COACH fashion ,the water filter is located in an almost impossible to get to place I went through all the deal of getting the filter out to only find there was not two drops of water in the thing!!                                       
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Rhet Raby           137 Elk Mtn Rd       Asheville N c 28804             1993 Prevost XL
buswarrior
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« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2017, 02:23:47 PM »

maybe not 2 drops this time?

The time you skip disassembly, is the time there's water air locked in it.

Frozen water splits housings.

self discipline is character building?

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
Tony LEE
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« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2017, 07:16:31 PM »

Don't forget the windshield washers
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neoneddy
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« Reply #6 on: November 01, 2017, 01:16:21 PM »

My windshield washer don't work, so I have that going for me.

Every-time I goto Menards to buy wood to make ramps I keep buying other stuff and use the wood for other projects. 



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First time bus owner, long time bus lover  - 1982 MCI MC9 6V92 - Current Status - Livable, still 20-30% more to go.  Video Build Log
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