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Author Topic: Radiator recoring in Minnesota?  (Read 1422 times)
belfert
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« on: February 06, 2007, 08:34:40 AM »

Is anyone familiar with any place in Minnesota that recores diesel radiators?  I saw several ads for radiators in one of the trucker magazines and one of them was in Hibbing, Minnesota or somewhere in Northern Minnesota, but I can't find the name or number anymore.  I had talked to them a while back about my radiator.

Any ideas who this might be?  There is an L & M Radiator in Hibbing, MN, but they mostly make radiators for mining trucks and equipment.  They would recore my radiator for $2,800, but the place I talked to was less than 1/2 of that price.

Brian Elfert
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gumpy
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« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2007, 09:11:38 AM »

Suggest you run a search on Dexonline.com. Call a few of them and ask them if they know who in the area does large radiators.

Also, contact some heavy truck repair shops in the area. Peterbilt in Blaine would be a good start. Glen's in Rogers. There's a few in St. Paul, I think, too. There's a Ford shop off I35 or 280 (Stinson / Industrial blvd).  Any of these repair facilities could probably tell you who does that kind of work.

Did you ask JD if he knows someone?

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Craig Shepard
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paulcjhastings
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« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2007, 09:21:17 AM »

Rick's radiator in Shakopee, he works on all kinds of obscure stuff. He is kind of a curmudgeon, but he is of the old school and he takes pride in his work. His shop is right next to my dads office. Phone number (952) 445-7172 Tell him I sent you and he'll charge you double Grin Grin

Paul Hastings
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Paul Hastings
1993 Setra 215 w/ Detroit Series 60 & Allison HT748
Belle Plaine, MN
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belfert
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« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2007, 12:07:07 PM »

I'm sure I could find plenty of places in the Minneapolis area to work on my radiator, but the place I talked to seemed to be able to recore/rebuild the radiator better than new so it would reject more heat.

No, I haven't talked to JD.

Brian Elfert
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« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2007, 01:27:12 PM »

No, I haven't talked to JD.
Brian Elfert

AND WHY NOT? You have 1 of the most reliable sources of information right there in your own backyard, but yet you fail to consult him!  So many of us wish JD was as close to us as he is for you! Shoot you don't even need to go by he's only a phone call away!
BK  Grin
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belfert
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« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2007, 02:21:30 PM »

No, I haven't talked to JD.
Brian Elfert

AND WHY NOT? You have 1 of the most reliable sources of information right there in your own backyard, but yet you fail to consult him!  So many of us wish JD was as close to us as he is for you! Shoot you don't even need to go by he's only a phone call away!
BK  Grin

Part of it is not wanting to bother JD.  I'm sure he would be happy to do the whole project including new thermostats, radiator cleaning or recoring, and new gasket for water pump, but I'm not terribly interested in paying $95 an hour for the labor part.  The radiator would just get sent out by him anyhow.

I do pay JD to do things like oil changes and lubricating the chassis because he can dispose of the oil and has a lift to make it easy to lubricate.  Plus his guys do an inspection while on the lift.

Brian Elfert
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paulcjhastings
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« Reply #6 on: February 06, 2007, 04:08:55 PM »

Getting a radiator to reject more heat than new isn't something that can be accomplished by magic.

First let me say that I am not an expert. There has to be an increase in surface or fin area or thickness. A larger radiator will generally reject more heat than a smaller one of the same thickness, one with more fins(the same size and thickness) will generally reject more heat than one with less fins, a thicker one will generally reject more than a thinner one if the air can flow well through it.

If you need it to be the same size(and I think you do) one way to increase heat rejection is by using a thicker radiator. Problem is there needs to be a difference in air pressure from the front side to the back so that you can be sure that air will still flow well through it. Otherwise all the extra cooling capacity you have added will be wasted.

Everything is a compromise you just have to choose what is most important to you and make it work.

BTW have you been having problems with overheating? I was under the impression that the four-strokes put out a lot less waste heat than the two-strokes.

Paul
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Paul Hastings
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« Reply #7 on: February 06, 2007, 05:32:09 PM »

Is it leaking or overheating, Good question. Enquiring minds. Grin
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belfert
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« Reply #8 on: February 06, 2007, 05:44:41 PM »

Is it leaking or overheating, Good question. Enquiring minds. Grin

No leaks, just overheating.  It will run right at about 200 degrees on the level.  There are several places in the Twin Cities where there are truck lanes due to the grade.  On most of these the temp guage will start to rise and the grades aren't that steep.

It may just be a stuck thermostat, but I have to be prepared to either clean or recore the radiator.

Brian Elfert
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Fredward
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« Reply #9 on: February 06, 2007, 07:20:37 PM »

Brian,
Another good place to check is Gary's Diesel in Loretto. Ask for Craig (the owner). He doesn't do radiators either but might know of a place. I had the radiator in my John Deere 4020 totally rebuilt at a place down in Chanhassen a few years ago. Maybe do that search in Dex? I don't remember the name but its real close to Prince's Paisley Palace recording studio on hwy 5 west of town. If you're really interested, I should be able to find the receipt. They did a nice job although we didn't talk about "hopping it up".

See you tomorrow afternoon for the cables.
Fred
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Fred Thomson
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« Reply #10 on: February 06, 2007, 08:40:51 PM »

Brian,

Be sure to check the accuracy of your heat gage. Pan of hot water and a kitchen thermometer.
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belfert
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« Reply #11 on: February 06, 2007, 10:04:39 PM »

Brian,

Be sure to check the accuracy of your heat gage. Pan of hot water and a kitchen thermometer.

I had JD add a mechanical gauge at the rear.  If I pull off somewhere and run around to the back the mechanical gauge will read about five degrees higher than the front gauge.

Brian Elfert
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tekebird
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« Reply #12 on: February 07, 2007, 03:08:31 PM »

Brian

have you flushed the radiator?

I would flush it several times prior to spending any money.
 and get a radiator comb and make sure the fins are not all mashed restricting airflow

mixing types of antifreeze makes a nice sludge,  I have personally flushed out almost a gallon of goof from a cooling system because of this.

next repace the t stats.......as thats the next cheapest thing.

then it is rodding the core.....

final step is recoring......no magic to making it more efficient.....they just have a higher number of water passages that old style, although your bus is new enoguht to have that tech.

recoring is gonna cost you some $$ 700.00 maybe?? don't recall what I paid for mine years ago......upwards of 1000.00 but that included labor and coolant etc.

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tekebird
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« Reply #13 on: February 07, 2007, 03:11:13 PM »

Oh, Any Radiator shop can get tank your core, rod it or replace it.

I would go with the guy in your backyard.  It is not bothering him if he does it for his business and you are paying your bills.

I give all my farmed out work to two guys.....and get benefits from it in speed of service and price sometimes

and am confident I am not getting rooked

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