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Author Topic: 50 amp plug in  (Read 3198 times)
DavidInWilmNC
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1978 MC-8 as I bought it May 2005




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« Reply #15 on: February 13, 2007, 07:26:38 AM »

Mine is wired in the standard 50 amp 120/240 volt configuration.  It seems silly not to, as the costs are about the same.  I have a 20 amp 220/240 outlet in the center bay for those times I need to weld or use the plasma cutter.  It's much easier than dragging out that heavy 70' 10-3 cable to weld.  Also, I have an outlet in the bus for a  portable space heater that runs on 240 volts @ 20 amps.  It's very quiet and puts out around 9k btu.  It's nice for quickly heating the bus or for sites that have 50 amp service with power included. 

I'd wire 'normally' with both legs of 120 volts, neutral, and ground.  You can always combine the two legs with an adapter plug or the cable itself.  Also, my generator puts out 50 amps @ 120 volts, so my transfer switch combines both legs when it selects generator, or both legs when plugged in.

David
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redbusnut
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« Reply #16 on: February 17, 2007, 02:27:51 AM »

Richard, Iam hooking up a 50 amp RV pole this weekend and think I got it right,but get confused by different posts and was wondering if you would post little drawing showing wire hook-up.Thanks for any help.
Leon
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DrivingMissLazy
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« Reply #17 on: February 17, 2007, 06:44:18 AM »

Leon, I do not know how to make a drawing to post here. Perhaps someone like Sean will step up to the plate. Sorry
Richard

Richard, Iam hooking up a 50 amp RV pole this weekend and think I got it right,but get confused by different posts and was wondering if you would post little drawing showing wire hook-up.Thanks for any help.
Leon
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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming:  WOO HOO, what a ride
Stan
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« Reply #18 on: February 17, 2007, 07:37:30 AM »

  Does this work as a picture?                                     


                                                  Bare or Green Ground
                                                          *

                        Black   120 volt hot   |        | 120 volt hot  Black or Red

                                                           |
                                                       White Neutral
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redbusnut
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« Reply #19 on: February 17, 2007, 08:29:16 AM »

Hi Rachard, Thanks thats perfect,because there were so many adapters with the bus I bought,I was second guessing which receiver  to buy. Thanks again.
Leon
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DrivingMissLazy
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« Reply #20 on: February 17, 2007, 09:07:47 AM »

You're welcome, but you really need to thank Stan. He is who posted the drawing. LOL
Richard
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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming:  WOO HOO, what a ride
redbusnut
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« Reply #21 on: February 17, 2007, 09:21:14 AM »

Thanks Stan,am on my way to buy plug as that is configeration of the main extention with out adapters.
 thanks again.
Leon
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redbusnut
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« Reply #22 on: February 24, 2007, 05:17:59 PM »

Stan, When I wired my 50 amp plug from panel box in garage, I put red 110,black 110 , Ground to ground
block, (bare wire), Then white to nuetral block. I read where neutreal and ground should be bonded,should I put both neutral and ground in same block.
I ask question at home- depot and they look at me like Iam crazy. It is working allright, but I don't want to hurt someone or burn up my dream.
Thank Leon
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Stan
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« Reply #23 on: February 24, 2007, 05:32:42 PM »

redbusnut: The only place the ground (bare wire) and neutral (white wire) are connected together is in the service entrance panel (the breaker panel closest to the meter). There are only three wires coming from the utility company to your meter. One of these wires is ground, and in the service entrance panel you connect the bare ground wires and the white neutral wires to the same point. In actual fact, the bare wires are connected directly to the metal box (or to a bus bar connected to the box) and the white wires are connected to a bus bar which is connected to the metal box. From that point on, the bare ground and the white neutral are not connected together. The neutral is a current carrying wire. The ground wire only carries current when there is a fault in the system, to prevent the current from going to ground through your body.
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Hi yo silver
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« Reply #24 on: February 24, 2007, 05:48:03 PM »

The reference for clarifying these questions is NFPA standard #70, The National Electrical Code, published by the National Fire Protection Association.  If it's not available at the library, or your local fire dep't., it can be purchased through NFPA on line.  There are also guidebooks available that explain some of the more complex issues. 

Back in my first life I had access to current versions, but not any more.  And I won't try to comment on grounding requirements 'cause I'm too rusty!  Another resource for guidebooks on the subject is electrical supply houses.  That 220 is hot stuff, be careful.
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Blue Ridge Mountains of VA   Hi Yo Silver! MC9
redbusnut
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« Reply #25 on: February 25, 2007, 01:22:39 AM »

Stan, Iam going to admit, Iam dumest person on this board, Should I connect nuetral and ground on same bar in panel box.
Thanks Leon
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Stan
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« Reply #26 on: February 25, 2007, 05:18:38 AM »

redbusnut: In your previous post you were talking about the wiring in your garage (I think). If you are still talking about your garage, which I assume has a subpanel, and is not the maiin service entrance panel, then you do not connect the ground and neutral together.

Remember that I am talking about the usual residential service and not industrial service where you may have a splitter box sending 200 amp service to more than one building.

If you have changed course, (without telling us)  and you are now talking about your bus, there are different answers depending on how and what your panel is connected to. If it is only hard wired  to an onboard genset then it would fall under the rules of main entrance panel. If it is ever connected to shore power, then it is a subpanel with isolated neutral. If an inverter is thrown into the mixture, different wiring is required because of internal wiring in the inverter.

There is a lot of info on this subject in the board archives, including wiring diagrams for different hookups.
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Stan
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« Reply #27 on: February 25, 2007, 05:36:10 AM »

Hi Yo Silver: I try to explain electric and electronic questions in a manner that is safe and functional. The board has members in a multitude of countries that do not use the US codes and regulations.

In this thread, the profile for redthebusnut gives no indication of where he lives.  If Leon lives in the US, then I assume that he should meet federal, state and county regulations

I live in Canada where most of the electrical code is much tougher than the US codes. In my previous life I had to make changes to many items imported into Canada that passed inspection in their country of origin.
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redbusnut
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« Reply #28 on: February 25, 2007, 07:34:09 AM »

Hi Yo Silver, Iam in Canada to, Vancouver
Leon
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