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Author Topic: Body mods. and insulation  (Read 1630 times)
Chaz
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« on: February 09, 2007, 04:27:18 PM »

Hey Guys,
   If I was to put a "cap" on the top front of my 4108, can that space be used from the inside?? (ie. cut out the metal over the driver) I would ONLY consider ruining the outside looks if I could gain some space on the inside. And even at that, I'm not so sure I would.
   Also, it seems that that ceiling above the driver is double walled and I was wondering about shooting some spray foam insulation in it to help with the heating and cooling. Good idea, or not?
   I would -obviously- only do that if I didn't put a cap on. I was thinking about drilling a few holes here and there and spray it full. It is then going to get covered with thin padded vinyl.

   Always thinkin,
           Chaz

   
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captain ron
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« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2007, 07:05:02 PM »

Chaz, If you have the vista window you could take it out and use the area between the 2 caps for a flat panel tv that slides out and folds down. There is packets of insulation in that area between the two ceiling panels
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Chaz
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« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2007, 07:12:42 PM »

Thanx Ron. I was just chattin with Dallas in the chat room and he said the same thing. He doesn't like the idea of ruining the lines and I really don't either.
  I couldn't see any insulation in there, but i'll look harder. I figure it would probably be better with foam anyway.
   Thanx Ron!!

    tryin to stay warm,
            Chaz
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Chaz
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« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2007, 11:14:43 AM »

Ok, so does a "back cap" give you any more room in the rear, say for cabinets, than the stock rear?? I would reather have glass back there, but I'm told they don't make it anymore.
   
   Trying to find my space,
            Chaz
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captain ron
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« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2007, 11:27:05 AM »

Back cap will give you a little more room but it will definitely give you a cooler look
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Chaz
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« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2007, 11:46:40 AM »

Thanx Ron!  Got to keep that "cool factor" in mind. Grin Grin  But I kinda like the stock look too. If there is a decent amount of space gained, it may be worth it. (good spot to put a big set of Harley Wings too, huh!  Wink)

     Spacey,
           Chaz
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FloridaCliff
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« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2007, 12:14:20 PM »

Chaz,

The only real way the caps benefit you is if you do strucural mods.

I put some pics on my blog when I first started my destruction.

http://www.gmc4905.blogspot.com/

Cliff
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1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

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Chaz
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« Reply #7 on: February 16, 2007, 02:54:24 PM »

Thanx Cliff!! Those pix do help a bit.
I thought the buffalo's weren't "raise-able"! Looks like you got it well under control! But I must say, you seem to ba a glutton for punishment!!!!  Grin But she is a beaut!!!!

   Envious,
     Chaz
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Utahclaimjumper
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« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2007, 04:23:03 PM »

Chaz, I helped a friend raise and cap each end of a 4107A  "Buff" We raised it 12 inches and with the R&M caps gained a huge amount of room front and rear. The problem in my eyes is it looses the distinctive look of a buffalo, you can still see the large "D" windows behind the door and the large bay doors that the buffalo has.>>>Dan
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Utahclaimjumper 
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Stan
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« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2007, 05:49:40 PM »

What type of structure did you build to hold up the front of the bus when you removed the existing Roof structure?
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Barn Owl
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« Reply #10 on: February 16, 2007, 09:37:11 PM »

I like the classic lines of the old busses, my vote would be to keep the hump. If you use the high expansion foam, follow the instructions, and donít get too carried away with it.
In confined spaces it can exert enough pressure to buckle, bend, or bulge the exterior of the area you are insulating. Then you would have a real mess on your hands.
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Chaz
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« Reply #11 on: February 17, 2007, 07:31:41 AM »

I am thinking about the spray foam. I have used it allot on my studio and my house. (actually the whole front of my house is 6" of the commercially sprayed foam, shaved down and then stuccoed.)

  Any of you guys ever seen a buffalo raised but not "capped"?? Keeping the original lines. That would be best of both worlds!!

    Chaz
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« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2007, 09:06:49 AM »

Chaz- some thoughts- if you do a roof raise, since the GMC is a monocoque design, you have to block the bottom of the bus so that it is perfectly level with no stresses that would cause the bus to buckle.
I used spray foam in my bus.  When the interior was down to the metal, I screwed in 1x2's horizontally at about 1 foot spacing.  This made for something to easily screw my walls to; made the wall thicker so I got 2.25" of foam; elevated the level of the foam above the metal structure so all interior metal is buried in foam.  Many have just used block foam in between the metal studs of the bus structure.  But then you still have those studs exposed to transfer either hot or cold inside.  Granted, it makes for a narrower wall (especially like your 96" wide bus).  On my 102" wide transit, the walls are 2.75" wide total, so I loose 5.5" from 102" which means I still have a conservative 96" interior.  Or you would still have about t 90.5" interior.  Good Luck, TomC
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Chaz
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« Reply #13 on: February 17, 2007, 09:15:53 AM »

Thanx Tom.
   The roof raising is probably more of a fantasy as i don't know when I would ever do it. (too many irons in the fire and I like to be able to use it now) But I am aware of the necessity of blocking it up. I'd definitely get as much info on doing it as i could IF, and I do mean IF, I would ever do one.  I'd love to do one, but man.........  Undecided
 
  I'd hate to loose more interior space, but I know I would if I did it right. For right now I'll deal with what I have and keep it all in mind. I also like the idea of that insulating paint on the inside of the walls too. I think that would help a bit from what i read.
   
    thanx Buddy!
        Chaz
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Pix of my bus here: http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/Skulptor/Motor%20Coach/
What I create here:   www.amstudio.us
 
"Imagination is more important than knowledge". Albert Einstein
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