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Author Topic: Time for an impact gun?  (Read 5294 times)
Ed Hackenbruch
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« Reply #15 on: March 03, 2007, 08:32:55 PM »

oops! i think i screwed  that up!  try www.Times12.com/
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1968 MCI 5A with 8V71 and Allison MT644 transmission.  Western USA
Buffalo SpaceShip
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« Reply #16 on: March 03, 2007, 08:44:53 PM »

Well Ed and JR's multipliers look like nice pieces of engineering, for sure. The thing I was using today (wouldn't you know I didn't take a picture) is this offset affair and must weigh 10 pounds all by itself. Using it is not fun. The X12 especially looks like a breeze to crack nuts with. And no air, compressors, and hoses to worry about. Or even electricity for that matter. Nice.

Hmm....
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Brian Brown
4108-216 w/ V730
Longmont, CO
Ed Hackenbruch
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« Reply #17 on: March 03, 2007, 08:45:58 PM »

Ok that gets you there.  Just as a further note, last year when i was trying loosen the lug nuts i was using a 4-5 ft. cheater bar with no luck.  When i was using the 12:1 multiplier i could pretty much only  use one arm as i was still recovering from  dislocating a shoulder about four months earlier......took 8 months before i completely healed up  from that.
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1968 MCI 5A with 8V71 and Allison MT644 transmission.  Western USA
Stan
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« Reply #18 on: March 04, 2007, 05:44:06 AM »

Although the Ken Tool that Brian describes can be used to remove drive axle outer nuts, it is awkward to use and it is made for a specific purpose. It is designed to remove the outer nut when the inner nut tuirned and you can't get the wheels apart. I sold mine at a yard sale for $25.00.

The X-10 certainly applies lots of torque to the outer nut. I borrowed one to use on a stubborn nut and it developed enough torque to twist off the square end of the inner nut without the outer nut coming loose.

At some point, the best answer is a cutting torch and then replace the studs and nuts because they are likely stretched.
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NJT5047
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« Reply #19 on: March 04, 2007, 07:21:56 AM »

A 1" ratchet head makes a torque multiplier easier to use.  That's the round gizmo in front of the torque head.   With a torque head, the lever will move over a long arc with almost no socket movement...results in a lot of socket repositioning, which is a PITA, or moving the pull handle which often ends up in a bad position.   Ratchet head solves this problem.   
One other thing is to wrap duct tape or something similar around the socket if you have nice wheels.  The socket will fall off occasionally and damage alloy wheels. 
I agree with Stan that lugnuts that are that difficult to remove should be replaced....along with their studs.   
An air impact large enough to twist off the studs would make short work of removal...still have to repair the studs.  Air impact is best way if you have an air supply of sufficient capacity. 
Brian, I've got an idea for removing your problem wheel...let the air out of your difficult tire and call road service and tell'em you have a flat.  They'll get it off.   Wink 
JR 
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JR Lynch , Charlotte, NC
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« Reply #20 on: March 04, 2007, 07:23:50 AM »

Just to state the obvious, remember that the driver side of the bus has reverse threads on most bus and truck lug nuts.  

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Jim Shepherd
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Tom Y
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« Reply #21 on: March 04, 2007, 10:18:08 AM »

These problems are why I changed all my studs and wheels to Hub piliot. My hubs will work and now plan to run 4 alumium wheels and 2 steel. I do not have a large enough raised area  on my rears to run dual alumium wheels. Just another idea.  Tom Y
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Tom Yaegle
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« Reply #22 on: March 04, 2007, 11:41:12 AM »

Tom Y: Are the hubs for the newer Hub piloted Wheels the same as the old hubs for Stud Piloted or did you change all your hubs?
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NJT 5573
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« Reply #23 on: March 04, 2007, 05:30:40 PM »

If you buy an off brand gun its gonna use a lotta air. If you buy the IR tire gun it will work all the time and use very little air. My best one will do ten lugs on a KW with a little 1 lung cummins compressor with 2 compressor cycles. (2 minutes to rest while it rebuilds air). My 3/4 IR composite hand gun works almost as well. It wasn't designed for tires, watch your fingers.  I always coat all threads with boat trailer wheel bearing grease, It makes a huge difference on stud life and workability. If I didn't have air plumbed, I would have the tire shop pull the wheels. I'd grease the studs and nuts and put them on with my 3/4 torque wrench by hand at about 250 lbs, check them @ 300mi again with the wrench then do daily visuals for loose nuts. Thats a lot of work and I truely admire Mr. IR.
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« Reply #24 on: March 04, 2007, 07:09:43 PM »

I think those threads are supposed to be assembled dry.

Tom Caffrey
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Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
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NJT5047
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« Reply #25 on: March 04, 2007, 07:24:54 PM »

These problems are why I changed all my studs and wheels to Hub piliot. My hubs will work and now plan to run 4 alumium wheels and 2 steel. I do not have a large enough raised area  on my rears to run dual alumium wheels. Just another idea.  Tom Y

Most alloy wheels are combined with steel dual inner wheels.
An inner alloy will be useless if turned around anyway.  The hub flange damages the wheel. 
And weight isn't typically an issue on a bus conversion.
There's a disc that isolates the wheels.  No electrolysis. 
This is also a reason to use steel spares...if you carry a spare.
JR



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JR Lynch , Charlotte, NC
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« Reply #26 on: March 04, 2007, 09:28:59 PM »

OK, I made my way to HF this afternoon. After handling the 3/4" Earthquake, I couldn't bring myself to buy it, knowing I'd have to put an extension on it and keep it all together as I bust 'em off. The 1" guns just seem made to take off lugs. I also passed on the Earthquake 1" since it was three times the money of one older model I found on clearance for $99.

It's fairly lightweight (28lbs), twin hammer, and has a max. torque of 1400ft#. 3 "speeds" L and R. Air consumption is a whopping 12cfm, so I'm going to have to be patient with this thing.

I also picked up a 1" impact socket set that weighs more than the gun. It includes a handy Budd socket with the 1-1/2" and 13/16" sq. drive built in. I also bought a 1/2" hose to cut up and use for supply. My plan is to use a 6' or less run of 1/2" hose to an 11 gallon "punk" tank. And the rest of the 1/2" hose teed off the dry tank of my bus (or my cr*ppy Craftsman compressor, if need be). I'm working through the "plumbing" aspects now, trying to make wide-open connections at the "punk" and on downstream to the dry tank.

Weather here is supposed to be in the 60's tomorrow, so I'm hoping it'll sound like a NASCAR pit tire change around here in short order. I'll keep 'ya posted.

Thanks, folks!
Brian B.

a pic, naturally...
« Last Edit: March 04, 2007, 09:35:33 PM by Buffalo SpaceShip » Logged

Brian Brown
4108-216 w/ V730
Longmont, CO
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« Reply #27 on: March 05, 2007, 04:22:55 AM »

Keep that dude oiled. It's the life of the tool.
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JackConrad
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« Reply #28 on: March 05, 2007, 08:59:03 AM »

I also picked up a 1" impact socket set that weighs more than the gun. It includes a handy Budd socket with the 1-1/2" and 13/16" sq. drive built in. I also bought a 1/2" hose to cut up and use for supply. My plan is to use a 6' or less run of 1/2" hose to an 11 gallon "punk" tank. And the rest of the 1/2" hose teed off the dry tank of my bus (or my cr*ppy Craftsman compressor, if need be). I'm working through the "plumbing" aspects now, trying to make wide-open connections at the "punk" and on downstream to the dry tank.

When you make up your "plumbing", use the large 1/2" air quick connects. This eliminates a common restriction that limits the air gun output.  When we plumbed our shop there is a 1/2" quick connect in the 1" air line the feeds my shop near each corner of the bus. Hope this helps, Jack
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« Reply #29 on: March 05, 2007, 02:23:45 PM »

Stan, I did not change my hubs. I have an 80 MCI 5C. The rear hubs have a raised area the right dia. but does not come out enough for 2 alumium wheels. The front has a ring to support the wheel, where some trucks have 4 tabs. I had the Buds on my last RV and I really do not like them. Tom Y
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Tom Yaegle
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