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Author Topic: Black Tank Issues  (Read 4046 times)
captain ron
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« Reply #15 on: March 09, 2007, 05:53:34 PM »

Nice job, I will eventually do mine similar to yours.
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TomC
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« Reply #16 on: March 10, 2007, 08:58:38 AM »

I like to keep the lines of my bus clean, even when hooked up.  My electrical hook up comes out from a hidden door underneath; my sewer is accessible from the side, but drops down so it looks like the hose just sort of appears.  The only hook up on the outside is the water.
The sewer is at the lowest point of the bus.  Granted when the air suspension is down, it is low.  I just dump when the air suspension is up.  If there is a curb, just have to help it along by rolling the hose from one to the other to create a pumping action, no big deal.  Personally like it that you don't see a bunch of plumbing hanging down when driving-like you see on the cheaper S&S.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
gumpy
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« Reply #17 on: March 10, 2007, 03:37:21 PM »

It's ok under when you pull up to most dump sites as you can usually get right over them and use a short hose. but in a campground parked it is usually too low and a pain in the a$$ making for a $h!ty job. 

I must be doing something wrong. I've never been able to drive over the hole, and most have a 6-8 inch curb in front of them. I have even been in parks where I was so far away from the hole I had to add on the second hose. I've never have a hard time and I seldom lose even a drop when I disconnect. I guess I just don't understand the problem.

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Craig Shepard
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H3Jim
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« Reply #18 on: March 10, 2007, 03:56:15 PM »

I have both my grey and black exiting the bay through the rear, just in front of the duals.  Although I plan to add a heating wire, it could be an issue in cold country if they freeze.  I mounted them that way so I could maximize my tank capacity in the bay.  I put electric valves on them, and also added a separate manual valve thats just inside the bay, in case the electrics ever failed.  All the plastic that is in front of the wheel well is pretty well protected by parts of the rear suspension and inner fender.  I am more afraid of freezing than a tire failure (I run new michelins).  It figure it was a success because of everything I fit into one bay.  330 gals of water and waste, generator and sound box, and 10 gal hot water heater etc.

Having said all that, I did have a failure of the electric actuator.  I only dump every three to six months - I have a 58 gal tank, and mostly its me for short trips, and I like to get it half full before dumping.  Evidently, that did not work the valve enough and it did not have the power to overcome the sitckiness of sitting too long. I replaced the black tank valve with a manual one. It was not a fun task.

My black tank is above the grey one - so the toilet can drop straight into the black one.  It all  works very well. No leaks no regrets (except that electric valve).

Gumpy, maybe its where you dump.  Most of the places in Cal I dump have almost a trough with a raised perimeter.  The low part extends under the coach, so many times I do not even need a hose.  I just pull up and open up the valve.  Usually a little hosing down is nice since it dumps so fast there is a little splash up. quick and easy.
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Jim Stewart
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« Reply #19 on: March 10, 2007, 09:56:13 PM »

My bus came with only one waste tank and the drain higher than the tank bottom. I was upset with that at first but now realize it is the best setup.

The grey water keeps solids down and the high drain keeps the tank from completely emptying.

Why is that good? Because the tiny little microbes that eat waste solids never get flushed out of the tank and continue to do their good job. I've never flushed out my tank or completely emptied it and won't.

You certainly wouldn't flush out your septic tank at home and the bus has the exact same system without the home system drain field.
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PD4107-152
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« Reply #20 on: March 12, 2007, 06:04:50 AM »

Ron, you said you use lots of paper. Is it the RV paper? It breaks up easier. I have heard to test the papers suitability for RV use is to fill a quart jar with water & add a few squares of paper, close the jar & give 1 or 2 shakes. If the paper breaks up easily, it is suitable for RV use. If it doesn't break up, then it probably won't in the tank either & will cause blockage problems.

Another thing some people have done is to have a 'special toxic waste can' for the paper to keep it out of the black tank & thereby eliminating the problems of 'black tank constipation'. I thought this too much trouble, but they claim it is no bother once you get used to it. The added bonus is easier tank evacuations.

Phred's Poop Sheets have lots of good info on this sort of thing too.   http://www.phrannie.org/macerator.html

Happy trails
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« Reply #21 on: March 12, 2007, 01:46:51 PM »

Gumpy, I know you have never spilled a drop. You also have never dumped in front of me!!! And it is that guy/lady who always leaves a mess!! Some municipalitys have round holes in the ground for RVs to dump. Very nice of them. Just remove the cover pull over and pull the handle!!  Make sure its says sanitary not storm.
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Barn Owl
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« Reply #22 on: March 12, 2007, 09:36:21 PM »

My bus was converted in í79 and the photo below shows how the PO did it. I havenít had a problem with it yet. My question is: Would it had been better instead of laying the tanks flat, sit them on edge with the discharge at the bottom? With the same volume and smaller bottom I would think that it would push the crap out faster and with more force, lessening the chance to clog up.
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« Reply #23 on: March 12, 2007, 10:08:32 PM »

Barn Owl,

It may be that it would have been better.  They probably did it because of other reasons such as these were the tanks they had, maybe even with the openings where they are. 

When I was looking at tanks for my conversion, capacity and shape loomed more important than just the ideal placement.
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Jim Stewart
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« Reply #24 on: March 12, 2007, 10:41:54 PM »

Craig,

I don't understand the spill problem either. When mine stops running I shut off the valve, disconnect the hose at the tank end, lift it higher than the drain hole and flush it out while walking the high spot to the drain hole??
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« Reply #25 on: March 13, 2007, 09:28:27 AM »

This is a good topic................ well, good information at least!!   Wink
 
I am going to be doing ALL my tanks this month and am all ears (eyes) about what you guys have done and what works best.  BELIEVE ME, I really, really, REALLY want to do it the BEST possible way as I really, really, REALLY don't want to have issues.  Tongue Eeeeeeuuuuuu!!!!

 So one of the things I seen in this thread is leaving some of the "material"  Undecided in the tank. Is that really a good idea??? I have to make my tanks and would like to do this the best way possible.

 Also, would it be a bad idea to put some sort of "Drano" or something like that in there to help with the break down of solids??

  I'm ALL ears here guys. And eyes too, as I would reaally like pictures if possible!

  Thanx a MILLION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is one topic I want to know about and do perfectly!!!

   Being anal about this one,                             (no pun intended!!  ;Dlolol)
        Chaz
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« Reply #26 on: March 13, 2007, 09:52:50 AM »

I ahve never put anything in the tank to hep it break down - the bes thing there is, is poop, and yo add that every day.  anything else slow down or stops the process.  I have 2" vent which hlep insure that the breakdown is aerobic, not the really smelly anerobic.  I have never put any additives, and after I put the 2" vent, have never had an oder problem.  I also don't dump all the time.  As someone else said, it works just like a septic system, but without the leach lines.
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Jim Stewart
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« Reply #27 on: March 13, 2007, 10:07:31 AM »

Yep, the reason you leave a little in the tank is to have a starter solution for the good bacteria.

If your waste tank is healthy, the odor should be a musty one, but not offensively so.

If you use antibiotic soaps &-or chlorine bleach, you will kill the good bacteria & increase chances for a smelly tank. Most tank additives are perfumes & preservatives.

The best advice concerning what to put in the tank - If you ate it , it can go in, otherwise put it some where else.

BTW a lot of the 'RV tank additives' are bad for a septic tank & leach lines & is why a lot of public dump stations are closed.
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« Reply #28 on: March 13, 2007, 01:11:13 PM »

Gumpy, I know you have never spilled a drop. You also have never dumped in front of me!!! And it is that guy/lady who always leaves a mess!! Some municipalitys have round holes in the ground for RVs to dump. Very nice of them. Just remove the cover pull over and pull the handle!!  Make sure its says sanitary not storm.

I dunno. I dumped there in Arcadia where we had the rally. I thought that one was the worst one I've ever dumped at because of the manhole cover. I would not have been able to get over the hole without having to back up to get off it, which would have meant unhooking
the car. I used the hose, found it more of a mess dumping down that big hole then having a 4" PVC pipe to stick the elbow into.

I suppose I'm just in the minority. I don't use gloves when I dump, either. More incentive to be careful and clean  Wink
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Craig Shepard
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« Reply #29 on: March 13, 2007, 02:47:43 PM »

I agree with the 2" (or Larger) vent, especially if you have a single tank or both tanks share a vent. I had a 1-1/2" vent and dumping the 3" valve would suck all the water from the p-traps.  Took a while to figure out why the bad smells after I dumped.

Len
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