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Author Topic: Bleeding air from a 6V92TA  (Read 2382 times)
tomhamrick
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« on: April 13, 2007, 09:00:25 AM »

I am changing the coolant in my 6V92TA and need to know the bleed points to let the air out.
Thanks,
Tom Hamrick
1984 Eagle 10S
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Tom Hamrick
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1981 Eagle 10
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2007, 09:35:54 AM »

Hi Tom,

Luke has always told me to bleed the air from the crossover tube in the back of the engine. Should be a ped-cock.

I belive that is where the air pockets form when refilling the block.

Good Luck
Nick-
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tomhamrick
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« Reply #2 on: April 13, 2007, 09:59:20 AM »

Thanks Nick, I do have two crossover pipes, the smaller one bypasses the thermostats and the larger goes to the radiator but I do not have any valves in them. The closest thing I have is a plug in the thermostat housing. Wonder if that will work?
Thanks again,
Tom Hamrick
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Tom Hamrick
1991 Prevost H3-40 VIP
1981 Eagle 10
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #3 on: April 13, 2007, 11:01:56 AM »

Tom,

If you loosten the hose on the larger pipe, you may achieve the same as a ped-cock.

The t-stat housing fitting may work. but, run the engine breifly [-1 min] to circulate the coolant and purge again.

Good Luck
Nick-
« Last Edit: April 13, 2007, 11:04:13 AM by Nick Badame Refrig. Co. » Logged

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Brian Diehl
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« Reply #4 on: April 13, 2007, 12:05:01 PM »

I found I still was bleeding air from my system for up to 100 miles after I did the original air bleeding.  So, make sure to do a second bleeding some time later after the initial fill.
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skihor
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« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2007, 02:36:48 PM »

I made a bushing from solid stock, bottom curved to match the crossover tube, and threaded for a radiator drain type petcock. Then I drilled a hole in the crossover tube and welded the bushing in the middle on top and installed the petcock. Works great. I've been told that the 6V92 will NOT self bleed. Remember to use the proper Anti Freeze.

Don & Sheila
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LUKE at US COACH
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« Reply #6 on: April 13, 2007, 06:31:05 PM »

Hi Folks:

This is a very important thread for 92 series engine owners who drain their coolant.

The info. I gave to Nick was appropriate for most MCI's (unless modified), which have a petcock on the crossover tube which is accessed between the two sides of the blower belt.

On an Eagle or other coach, not equipped with a petcock, then you want to open the cooling system, as high as possible to bleed air while fililng.  Then run the coach and continue to bleed, and you will be amazed at the amount of air that will purge.

Failure to do so will cost you an engine!!!  I have seen it more than once.

Have a GREAT WEEKEND everyone!!!

Happy & SAFE!! Bussin' to ALL.

LUKE at US COACH
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
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« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2007, 07:12:39 PM »

Hi Luke,

Thanks for making this critical task more clear... Wink

You have a great weekend too!

We are always  greatful for your time...

Nick-

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« Reply #8 on: April 14, 2007, 08:19:36 AM »

On my 8V-71 there are two small braided lines going from the top most part of the engine to the radiator surge tank.  These are for continuous self bleeding of air bubbles from the cooling system.  If you don't have these lines, then I can see why you'd have to manually bleed the system.  You might consider having these self bleeding lines installed if you don't have them.  I know I've had them on my trucks along with the bus now.

92 series owners- very important to keep all air bubbles out of the coolant.  Can create hot spots and cavitation in the coolant that will eventually pit the liners. 

Also-anyone with wet cylinder liners (practically all engines except for 71 series Detroits, Cummins ISB, Mercedes-Benz 900, Caterpillar 3208, Caterpillar 3126/C7) have your coolant checked for acidity levels (4 times a year is ideal) and if too high use a product like Nacool to compensate.  I had a customer of mine that had to do liners on a Series 60 at 220,000 miles since he didn't check the coolant well.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
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« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2007, 10:56:09 AM »

On my 8V-71 there are two small braided lines going from the top most part of the engine to the radiator surge tank.  These are for continuous self bleeding of air bubbles from the cooling system.  If you don't have these lines, then I can see why you'd have to manually bleed the system.  You might consider having these self bleeding lines installed if you don't have them.  I know I've had them on my trucks along with the bus now.

92 series owners- very important to keep all air bubbles out of the coolant.  Can create hot spots and cavitation in the coolant that will eventually pit the liners. 

Also-anyone with wet cylinder liners (practically all engines except for 71 series Detroits, Cummins ISB, Mercedes-Benz 900, Caterpillar 3208, Caterpillar 3126/C7) have your coolant checked for acidity levels (4 times a year is ideal) and if too high use a product like Nacool to compensate.  I had a customer of mine that had to do liners on a Series 60 at 220,000 miles since he didn't check the coolant well.  Good Luck, TomC

Hi Tom,

Welcome to 1000 posts!
Thanks for helping so many!
Nick-
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« Reply #10 on: April 14, 2007, 01:31:35 PM »

On my 8V-71 there are two small braided lines going from the top most part of the engine to the radiator surge tank.  These are for continuous self bleeding of air bubbles from the cooling system. 

My RTS with a 6V92T has this feature.

(Another shameless plug for an RTS   Tongue  Grin )
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tomhamrick
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« Reply #11 on: April 16, 2007, 10:00:52 AM »

Thanks guys. I let it bleed from the top hose as directed and did get a lot of of air. I got it all for now but will check again after running to be sure. You guys are good!!!

Tom Hamrick
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Tom Hamrick
1991 Prevost H3-40 VIP
1981 Eagle 10
Forest City, NC
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