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Author Topic: gmc door latching adjustment  (Read 967 times)
tucsontattoo
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« on: May 17, 2007, 06:01:54 PM »

 would like to use my stock door closer and latch on my 4106 but can't unlatch from out side. looked under dash, all parts are in place but can't push the handle far enough ( from outside) with the old push rod to unlatch. Any of you guys ever adjusted one of these? according to the book the only adjustment in the mechanism is a turn buckle sort of adjustment in the main link to the door.
 Am I not seeing something? Maybe another adjustment?

               Hope someone knows..............Tucson
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pvcces
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« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2007, 10:35:06 PM »

Tucson, if you study the link that runs between the dash mounted crank and the door, you should find that there are a set of stops that are adjustable under the dash. They limit the travel of the crank as it goes over center. You will find this information in Sec. 3, pages 7 & 8.

If you can't push the pin in far enough to pop the door open, maybe those stops need some work. If the door stops are set right, I don't think that it will take much of a push to pop the door open.

If that's not the problem, maybe there's something wrong with the pin hardware. Does it have the rounded end?

For what it's worth.

Tom Caffrey

would like to use my stock door closer and latch on my 4106 but can't unlatch from out side. looked under dash, all parts are in place but can't push the handle far enough ( from outside) with the old push rod to unlatch. Any of you guys ever adjusted one of these? according to the book the only adjustment in the mechanism is a turn buckle sort of adjustment in the main link to the door.
 Am I not seeing something? Maybe another adjustment?

               Hope someone knows..............Tucson
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Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Ketchikan, Alaska
tucsontattoo
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« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2007, 07:48:02 PM »

thanks for the reply Tom. Won't have time to play with the thing again until Sunday but will deff take a look at the crank stops. As for the pin I assume you mean the clevis pin that contacts the main link to the door. I believe the one I have may be home made. Looks like someone sawed off a big bolt and doped it in the hole. You can pick it up with your fingers.
  Will be looking into changing that to a tighter fit also. might be part of my problem. Biggest problem is seeing under there. On the drivers side I've got the shifter tower in my back, in the middle the defroster package is in the way and on the curb side its tucked way up under the dash.
 Got the front half of the coach gutted for new flooring, drivers seat, copilot seat and dinette and were trying to restore the old entry stairs someone covered up with some NICE particle board and shag carpeting.soooooo guess I may as well rip out the defroster and check the heater core and rebuild my wiper motors while I'm this close, that would give me allot more room to work on the door closer right  Grin

 Ah the fun never ends...thanks for the help,  Tucson

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RJ
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« Reply #3 on: May 18, 2007, 08:02:16 PM »

Tucson -

If you're going to tear out the old defroster unit while poking around with the door closer mechanism, here's a tip:

The 4905s had an HVAC unit in the same location.  That's right - not only the defroster heater core, but an A/C evaporator core, too.

You might consider finding a used one, changing the blower motors to 12V, and installing that.  Run some freon lines to the rear (use the existing ones in the tunnel), hang a small condensor on the outside of the radiator and a Sanyo compressor off the old A/C drive, and bingo!  You've got driver's A/C!!

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
Fresno CA
tucsontattoo
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« Reply #4 on: May 18, 2007, 09:02:21 PM »

will look into that.......... thanks
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FloridaCliff
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« Reply #5 on: May 19, 2007, 12:59:29 PM »

Russ or anyone,

You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the AC compressor install?

This is something I am working on doing!

Cliff
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gus
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« Reply #6 on: May 19, 2007, 04:56:04 PM »

Same thing happened to my 4104. The push rod from the front had been cut off and it couldn't be pushed in far enough to unlatch the door. I made a new rod only about 1/2" longer and it works perfectly.  I drilled and tapped a hole in the outside end of the push rod and used a flat head screw to install a brass bell from an old telephone, looks pretty classy and works fine. When I open the door from the outside in public I pretend I'm checking the wipers and hit the bell at the same time.

I checked the stop bolts and they are not the problem because the linkage doesn't even touch the stop bolt when closed. I doubt that your problem is the stop bolts, especially after you said that the push rod is an old bolt. Once the linkage goes past center the turnbuckle is the only adjustment left.

But just lately the door is refusing to lock closed from the inside so my next move is to tighten the turnbuckle.
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PD4107-152
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RJ
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« Reply #7 on: May 19, 2007, 07:05:15 PM »

Comments moved to the new thread. . .

 Wink
« Last Edit: May 19, 2007, 07:12:20 PM by Russ » Logged

RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
Fresno CA
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