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Author Topic: Door Lock - What's the Best?...And How to Install?  (Read 7448 times)
busboy
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« on: May 14, 2006, 05:25:44 AM »

Now that we are on the road, I'm figuring out all the things that need attention.  One of them is the door lock on our Eagle 10.  It has a car like knob that you push down to lock the door latch(looks original to the bus...the latch not the lock mechanism).  It's not working perfectly and sometimes won't lock.  I would like to put a deadbolt in but want to here from the board on what is the best for this application and how to do it. 
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« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2006, 09:19:29 AM »

Good topic,,, busnut83 would like to know also,,, I made my transit doors a one piece,,, I would like to know how to drill stainless... THANKS
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« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2006, 09:56:46 AM »

Talk to rich at IBP.  They have a nice setup that isn't too hard to install.  Jack Conrad did all the design work on it.  I have one here, just haven't had time to install it.
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Gary LaBombard
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« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2006, 09:58:01 AM »

Go to www.westlandproducts.com  for a product that will make drilling Stainless or any hard materials, even welded material that has been hardened from the heat etc.  Get the product called (Westlube), it will greatly assist you and only problem left is doing it.  Go to the site mentioned and decide for yourself before odering.  Hope this helps.
Gary
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« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2006, 10:38:08 AM »

BusBoy,

This is the setup I installed in my 102c, Very heavy duty to handle a bus door!

TriMark Corp.

http://www.trimarkcorp.com/zplatform.aspx?Hidden2=%253ca%2Bhref%253dzCategory.aspx%253fintcategoryid%253d175%2B%2Bclass%253d%2522headerWhite%2522%253e%2BIndustries%2B%253c%252fa%253e%2526nbsp%253b%252f%2526nbsp%253b%253ca%2Bhref%253dzCategory.aspx%253fintcategoryid%253d176%2B%2Bclass%253d%2522headerWhite%2522%253e%2BRecreational%2BVehicle%2B%253c%252fa%253e%2526nbsp%253b%252f%2526nbsp%253b%253ca%2Bhref%253dzCategory.aspx%253fintcategoryid%253d86%2B%2Bclass%253d%2522headerWhite%2522%253e%2BMotor%2BHomes%2B%253c%252fa%253e%2526nbsp%253b%252f%2526nbsp%253b%253ca%2Bhref%253dzCategory.aspx%253fintcategoryid%253d89%2B%2Bclass%253d%2522headerWhite%2522%253e%2BExterior%2BPersonnel%2BDoors%2B%253c%252fa%253e%2526nbsp%253b%252f%2526nbsp%253b&imgid=6&id=22&skuid=



Sorry for the long address, but I'm putting you to the paddle's

Here is the PDF file for cut sheet  http://www.trimarkcorp.com/media/product/030/030-0900_tech_pub.pdf

Hope this helps-
Nick-
« Last Edit: May 15, 2006, 02:19:23 AM by Nick Badame Refrig. Co. » Logged

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« Reply #5 on: May 14, 2006, 04:54:54 PM »

The nice thing about the IBP setup is that it addresses the problem of needing the inside and outside door handles at diferent levels.  IE: You mount the interior and exterior door handles where ever they are comfortable.  The inside ends up 12+" higher than the outside.  The handles are then connected to the latch with rods.  The kit comes with everything you need to install.  It's not really the latch install I'm dreading, it's the factory door opener handle removal.
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Burgermeister
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« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2006, 08:46:33 PM »

Any cutting of stainless, drilling or otherwise, requires dealing with getting around the work-hardening properties of SS.

You typically slow the drill speed down and advance the feed (more push in hand drill situations) in an effort to constantly undercut the previous cut surface (which has work hardened).

Good cutting lubricant is almost essential.  Poor lube is costly in bits or cutting tools.

Onward and Upward

Marc
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BJW
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« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2006, 09:13:31 AM »

I thought a long time about this issue and heard of many people having their bays and entry door locks either broken or pried open by would-be thieves.   I had a deadbolt on my door originally, but it didn’t seem to work for the look I wanted.  I wanted a smooth side look without handles etc….sort of a shaver door idea on hot rods.

 I got rid of the dead bolt and other handle stuff and modified a commercial push exit with electric solenoid actuation. It is very strong and cannot be breached from the outside.  It is a great emergency exit as well, as there is no fumbling with a latch or lock…just push and anyone including a child can get out very fast.    I haven’t seen this type of installation on any other bus, but I can’t imagine someone else hasn’t done this either.   It is very nice as there is no exterior handle.  It is controlled either by a key fob or digital entry keypad along side of the door.  This smooth look matches all of my bay doors as well.  They have no handles either.  They are all controlled by digital key pad or key fobs.  I also chose this way because I know of a ton of people (including myself) go to open a bay and have to turn right around and go inside and get the bay door keys.  A minor frustration, but none the less.   The only exterior doors that have any exterior locks are my hydraulics bay door and my battery master switch door.  This way I can access my batteries any time. 

I don’t know that this helps much, but it’s just another one of those “do it your way” kind of things.   Smiley
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BJW
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« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2006, 10:10:59 AM »

BJW,

I like that.  Are your locks normally unlocked or locked when power is turned off

I thougt long about this before I installed my paddle, and I couldn't think through the emergency synario, that if we lost power while we

were inside, would we be able to exit if N.C.. Or would the coach door unlock if the batt's went dead while parked, N.O.

Let me know what you did to overcome this?

Nick-
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« Reply #9 on: May 15, 2006, 12:23:19 PM »

Hey Nick,

The lock is normally locked when the door closes or is closed.  However, there is a feature that allows you to have the door stay in the unlocked position when camping so people can come and go as they please without having to key in a code.  Further, the door is always openable no matter if it is powered or not.  It is impossible to be inside and not get out, but if the door closes and your outside, either the bar had to be already disabled to re-enter, or you have to code in the keycode. 

The bar is like a panic bar on some retail stores have at thier front doors or emergency doors.  In fact that is what gave me the idea.  The bar is contiuous across the entire door and can be pushed from any point along it to have it easily open.  Basically, if you normally push on a door to open, you would use the same force to open mine, you would only have to push along the bar with my setup...no locks to figure out or latch to fiddle with before exiting, nothing to stop you should you be flustered at the time.    I don't have any pictures with me, but can try to get some up soon. 

Have a great day!!   Grin
 


BJW,

I like that.  Are your locks normally unlocked or locked when power is turned off

I thougt long about this before I installed my paddle, and I couldn't think through the emergency synario, that if we lost power while we

were inside, would we be able to exit if N.C.. Or would the coach door unlock if the batt's went dead while parked, N.O.

Let me know what you did to overcome this?

Nick-
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BJW
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« Reply #10 on: May 15, 2006, 01:56:27 PM »

BJW,

Thanks,
Let me know when you are posting them.  I would also like to know what componets you used!

I have my shop all wired with keypad access, key fobs for employee entrance, and I also constructed a way to open the overhead

doors and unlock office from my cell phone using a communicating module. it works pretty well !

Nick-
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« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2006, 01:57:15 PM »

Neat idea for a door lock, I'd like something like that, but is there any way to keep the kids from leaving the coach at 65mph?

Jason Whitaker
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Dallas
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« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2006, 02:11:32 PM »

Neat idea for a door lock, I'd like something like that, but is there any way to keep the kids from leaving the coach at 65mph?

Jason Whitaker
4104
The easiest way to keep the kids from leaving at 65 is to tell them that there is 2 hours of homework waiting or that there is some house work to do.
Or, you could put in a slide bolt.
Dallas
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busboy
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« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2006, 03:00:57 PM »

I talked to Rich@IBP this morning and he said that Jack Conrad had written an article on his Door Lock design.  Does anybody have a copy they could e-mail me.  I want to see what I'm in for before plunking down $200+ for one.
Thanks,
Brent
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« Reply #14 on: May 15, 2006, 03:04:52 PM »

Brent,
    Check your email.  I sent you the article as well as several photos.  Jack
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« Reply #15 on: May 15, 2006, 03:12:27 PM »

Jack,
Got it.  Thanks!  Do you know of anyone that has installed the lock on an Eagle?
Happy Trails,
Brent
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« Reply #16 on: May 15, 2006, 03:22:10 PM »

    Yes, we installed one on an Eagle last month. However, this was an Eagle that had a new sedan door built and the door was covered with a sheet of .090 aluminum. I have not installed any in the OEM Eagle siding. If you decide to use this door latch, I can FAX or mail you the templates for cutting the openings for the latch assembly and exterior handle. I also have a template for making the interior handle backing plate.  Jack
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« Reply #17 on: May 15, 2006, 08:29:26 PM »

Jack, this might be a neverending request, but could you send me the article and pictures as well? 



Thanks.  I have the electric paddes, on a 1995 H3-41 and looking for a latch I can use from the outside.  Right now, its key only.

thanks

Jim
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« Reply #18 on: May 16, 2006, 04:34:31 AM »

No problem, It will be on its way shortly.  Jack
PS: For anyone that is near SW Fl, I can install these for you if you don't feel comfortable doing the installation. 
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« Reply #19 on: May 16, 2006, 06:29:37 AM »

Got it, thank you very much!
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« Reply #20 on: May 16, 2006, 06:41:32 AM »

Jack, this might be a neverending request, but could you send me the article and pictures as well?


Jack,

A new door lock is also on my short list.

Could I trouble you for a copy.....Pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Cliff
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« Reply #21 on: May 16, 2006, 09:23:52 AM »

Jack,

I think you would be able to post your story to this site, If you like!

Mabe post it and lock it so no body can modify it or reply to it!

Nick-
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« Reply #22 on: May 16, 2006, 02:23:48 PM »

Ok. I will that.  Jack
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« Reply #23 on: May 16, 2006, 02:49:27 PM »

Hi Jason,

I have an MC9 and when the bus is in gear, the bus lock engages and holds the door shut as well as the main door lock.   If you didn't have this feature, I suppose a simple internal latch could be used.  I have helped several people with thier door latches and figured that when I installed new locks on mine, I wanted a different type of lock system other than a dead bolt, or RV type lock.  I suppose ultimately, I just wanted to try it my way...   Wink  Sorry, I haven't had time to post any pictures yet, but will try to so soon.

Neat idea for a door lock, I'd like something like that, but is there any way to keep the kids from leaving the coach at 65mph?

Jason Whitaker
4104
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« Reply #24 on: May 16, 2006, 06:01:10 PM »

Thank you Jack
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« Reply #25 on: May 16, 2006, 06:04:41 PM »

Jack,

I think you would be able to post your story to this site, If you like!

Mabe post it and lock it so no body can modify it or reply to it!

Nick-

Possibly a good topic for Tips'N Tricks
Richard
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« Reply #26 on: May 16, 2006, 06:38:52 PM »

Yes Richard,

You can do that! 

Nick-
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« Reply #27 on: May 17, 2006, 04:37:40 AM »

Richard,
   If you want to, go ahead and move the article to Tip & Tricks.  I will look through my files for a few more simple, short articles that would probably fit in that category. We have DR. appointments this AM and are going to the SE Cruisers rally this afternoon. I will work on this project when we get home on Sunday.  Jack
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« Reply #28 on: May 17, 2006, 05:06:09 AM »

Richard,
   If you want to, go ahead and move the article to Tip & Tricks.  I will look through my files for a few more simple, short articles that would probably fit in that category. We have DR. appointments this AM and are going to the SE Cruisers rally this afternoon. I will work on this project when we get home on Sunday.  Jack

Jack,
We all hope things go well at the Dr. for you guys.
Have fun at the Cruiser Rally and send pictures to the board!
Dallas
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« Reply #29 on: May 17, 2006, 05:57:43 AM »

Thanks Dallas.  Good luck with your Gathering,  hope ya'll have good weather and a great time. We hope to stop by and visit with ya'll in October.  Jack
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« Reply #30 on: May 17, 2006, 11:04:30 AM »

Thanks Jack - You know your my Hero.............I should have it on my E-mail short list, but I can't find it.

Rich
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« Reply #31 on: May 17, 2006, 11:44:43 AM »

Thanks Dallas.  Good luck with your Gathering,  hope ya'll have good weather and a great time. We hope to stop by and visit with ya'll in October.  Jack
Thanks Jack!
So far we already have 3-4104's, my 4103, A beautiful MC9 from North Florida, A Flx NewLook from Charlotte, NC. and of course the run of the mill S&S and SOB's.
Tomorrow is the unofficial start so the TV crews can get a look, and a few are suppose to come in then. Then from tomorrow night to friday night, I'll be parking people and figuring out what to do with them.
Dallas

Oh, and this is post #250.
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« Reply #32 on: May 17, 2006, 12:46:42 PM »

Richard,
   If you want to, go ahead and move the article to Tip & Tricks.  I will look through my files for a few more simple, short articles that would probably fit in that category. We have DR. appointments this AM and are going to the SE Cruisers rally this afternoon. I will work on this project when we get home on Sunday.  Jack

Will do. I am trying to clean up the Tips 'N Tricks board right now and will get your writeup in there in the near future. Boy does this take a lot of time to do!!!
Richard
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« Reply #33 on: May 17, 2006, 01:18:19 PM »

Well, I started this topic and now I have a twist.  The more I looked at my lock and doing some research on the net, I determined that I have a pretty good lock, its an Eberhard Slam Latch model 206, which is made for vehicle applications.  The problem with it is that someone has done some southern engineering to make the lock work like the old car door locks, with a keyed cylinder on the outside that pushes up or down on the rod that is attached to the lock button on the latch.  I'm thinking about trying to get this setup to work versus cutting stainless, etc.  If I can find a paddle handle that has a lock built into it where basically if it is locked it just spins around and if it is not it will turn the latch.  The rod coming out of the middle of the latch is square and I have paddle handles on both the inside and outside.  For inside locking, I would just use the "engineered" button, or if someone has a better idea let me know.
Happy Trails,
Brent
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« Reply #34 on: May 17, 2006, 04:28:52 PM »

If I can find a paddle handle that has a lock built into it where basically if it is locked it just spins around and if it is not it will turn the latch. 

Call Rich at IBP.  I'm sure he'll sell you just the outside door handle.  It has a built in lock and should connect up to your existing latch rod.  Look at Jacks article and photos and determine which parts you will need to retrofit your existing latch.
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