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Author Topic: Air Dyer, Metal in Differential, Slack Adjuster  (Read 4209 times)
Kwajdiver
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« on: July 14, 2007, 07:16:20 PM »

While having work done at Michelangelo shop in Phoenix (see Wheel Bearing Maintance) we discovered some other problems.  Would you believe the air dyer started dying while setting in there yard.  That was replaced today, $225.00 not including labor.  While changing the fluild in the Differential a hunk of metal fell out.  Turns out it is or was part of a roller bearing.  Looks like a will need a new Differential.

I need an education on rear ends before I talk to Michelangelo's on Monday.  I know a lot depends on what's found when we open it up.  But should I replace it, or repair it?  If it's to be replaced, new or rebuild? How much should this cost me....?

Also looks like I need a new Slack Adjuster on the right side.  This one as adjusted a few months ago and is no longer doing the job.  Anyway to fix the one I have?  Could it just need a good cleaning?

As always, thanks for the input.

Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
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V-6-92 Detroit, Allison 5 spd auto
Kwajalein Atoll, RMI
gomer
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« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2007, 07:56:04 PM »

there was a differential on the flea market with tires free.  about the slack adjusters,take them aprt and clean them and look at them.  Most of the time they have dried greas and the locking ring doesn;t work properly.
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Kwajdiver
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« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2007, 08:04:11 PM »

Gomer,

Flea Market?HuhHuh?

Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
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Barn Owl
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« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2007, 08:48:15 PM »

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But should I replace it, or repair it?  If it's to be replaced, new or rebuild?

Whichever is the least expensive is what I would do. Even a good used take out would work for me. I have the opportunity to see a lot of rebuilt parts used and installed where I work. Those vehicles see hundreds of thousands of miles and that would be more than you would ever put on your conversion.

As for slack adjusters, I believe they are inexpensive. I am thinking in the range of about $30 give or take. I am sure someone else here will know for sure.

Good luck, keep us posted.

Laryn
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« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2007, 09:19:00 PM »

Are you certain that the bearing is from your differential and not one that may have been left in by the previous rebuilder?  Is your diff making noise?  I would just overhaul what is wrong and not completely rebuild it-we don't put enough miles on the buses for that.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
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« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2007, 09:20:34 PM »

I just replaced an adjuster on my truck, $22.00 Canadian; find a truck supply and repair shop [like your local Kenworth, Peterbilt, Volvo, International!

There are several types of slacks, 1 being the overall length, 2 the number of splines to slide onto the S cam, so if you are a do it yourselfer take the bad one off as a sample for the parts guy!

I say truck shop because I found my local Kenworth dealer a lot less expensive.

The replacements I got are riveted; so for the price it is not worth my time to clean an old one.
I been trukin for 38 years

Les R MC-9
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Kwajdiver
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« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2007, 09:25:21 PM »

Tom,

No noise, and no, I don't know the history.  I stuck my finger in the drain hole and could feel a couple more bearing, or part of.....

Guess we won't know till we open it up...

Bill
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« Reply #7 on: July 14, 2007, 10:11:49 PM »

I have to agree unless there is obvious damage to the gears, I'd replace the bearing (s) and run it like I stole it! Ooppps if I was drivin' yer coach, I woulda had to have stole it! LOL! JMHO
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
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DrivingMissLazy
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« Reply #8 on: July 15, 2007, 05:32:43 AM »

Bill, from the BNO board:

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4104 3rd member complete with tires FREE come and get it! Grants Pass,OR
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Richard

Gomer,

Flea Market?HuhHuh?

Bill
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« Reply #9 on: July 15, 2007, 05:50:44 AM »

Bill, If you ever wanted a different ratio now may be the time. If a bearing or bearings are bad and your gears are good have them changed ( the bearings ). You need to find someone who knows how to set them up and it maynot be where you are. The gears should show some wear where they are running a slightly different look or finish. No missing teeth or large chips or deep wear patterns.  Hope this helps.  Tom Y
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Tom Yaegle
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« Reply #10 on: July 15, 2007, 08:08:38 AM »

Richard -

a 4104 rear axle won't work in an MCI - V-drive vs a T-drive.


Bill -

Caylor Supply in Rantoul KS, will probably have what you need.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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RJ Long
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« Reply #11 on: July 15, 2007, 09:09:08 AM »

Actually- I believe a V drive and T drive axle housings are the same.  The only difference being the differential housing-straight or V.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
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« Reply #12 on: July 15, 2007, 09:12:53 AM »

Actually- I believe a V drive and T drive axle housings are the same.  The only difference being the differential housing-straight or V.  Good Luck, TomC

Tom while you are probably correct it still doesn't make sense for him to change out his housing just because of a bad bearing does it?   IMWTK
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
Huntingdon, TN 12 minutes N of I-40 @ exit 108
www.kylakesidetravel.net

Grin Keep SMILING it makes people wonder what yer up to! Grin (at least thats what momma always told me! Grin)
Kwajdiver
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« Reply #13 on: July 15, 2007, 09:58:14 AM »

All good information thanks guys,

Tom, gears, good thought.  Guess we can tell what it has when we open it.  What gears would I need for the best gas mileage?   I have a 6vV92.

Thanks again for the information.  However, no one has dare tell me what this could cost....  Anyone got a guess?

Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
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V-6-92 Detroit, Allison 5 spd auto
Kwajalein Atoll, RMI
luvrbus
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« Reply #14 on: July 15, 2007, 10:36:34 AM »

A 6v92 will not pull a real high gear it will just make fuel mileage worse a good ratio for a 8v92 is 3.36 so probably in the range of a 3.73 for a 6v92
« Last Edit: July 15, 2007, 10:40:52 AM by luvrbus » Logged
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