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Author Topic: Problem with roofair  (Read 3142 times)
Barn Owl
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PD4106-1063 "Wheezy Bus"




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« Reply #15 on: July 18, 2007, 04:08:08 PM »

Donít buy it, that one is shot! Wink
« Last Edit: July 18, 2007, 08:16:12 PM by Barn Owl » Logged

L. Christley - W3EYE Amateur Extra
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RTS/Daytona
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« Reply #16 on: July 18, 2007, 04:28:37 PM »

HI

Here's an excellent resource for almost all the Duro-Term manuals

This is one of the Clasic GMC MotorHome technical repositories(sp??)

see--> http://www.bdub.net/manuals/index.html

Pete RTS/Daytona  (X-GMC M/H'er)  -- I now have it's Big Little Brother - an RTS Bus Conversion)
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #17 on: July 18, 2007, 05:02:11 PM »

Dallas,

That capacitor is fake.....

This is the real "Flux Capacitor" that runs my A/C's in my bus.

I stole it out of an old Delorean I found in a junk yard...

Nick-
« Last Edit: July 18, 2007, 05:04:17 PM by Nick Badame Refrig. Co. » Logged

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maria-n-skip
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« Reply #18 on: July 18, 2007, 05:11:13 PM »

sorry Nick that is one of the older models

 Look for the one with the Quisenart Smiley

 Skip
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #19 on: July 18, 2007, 05:14:40 PM »

Darn.....

And I thought I had the Art of the State, Notch Top, Radio Transistor!

Well Oh!

Nick-
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maria-n-skip
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« Reply #20 on: July 18, 2007, 05:19:18 PM »

Nick

   You're still ahead of me I'm still counting colored bands on a brown backround. sorry I couldn't resist
   Next year I hope to learn to read capacitors.

  Skip
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ArtMaybee
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« Reply #21 on: July 19, 2007, 07:28:34 AM »

I found new motors for the unit for around $105.
Was I right in assuming that the allen set screw will release the squirrel cage to allow access to remove the motor?

Anyone else agree that it might be the capacitor that's shot and might need replacement and not the motor? After lubricating the shaft it definitely turns easily.
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Barn Owl
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« Reply #22 on: July 19, 2007, 11:18:26 AM »

Capacitors are very easy to check and if they do fail, they are inexpensive. Do that first.
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L. Christley - W3EYE Amateur Extra
Blue Ridge Mountains, S.W. Virginia
Itís the education gained, and the ability to apply, and share, what we learn.
Have fun, be great, that way you have Great Fun!
Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #23 on: July 19, 2007, 01:28:47 PM »

I found new motors for the unit for around $105.
Was I right in assuming that the allen set screw will release the squirrel cage to allow access to remove the motor?

Anyone else agree that it might be the capacitor that's shot and might need replacement and not the motor? After lubricating the shaft it definitely turns easily.

Hi Art,

If all else is in working order on the unit then I would opt to put the motor in.
You are one allen screw away from removing it anyway. If would be kinda foolish not to .
Good Luck
Nick-
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« Reply #24 on: July 19, 2007, 02:20:30 PM »

Sure sounds like the starting capacitor. I would try one first before removing the motor assembly.
Unfortunately if you replace the motor and the capacitor is bad, then it still will not run. Capacitors are cheap compared to a motor.
Richard
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« Reply #25 on: July 19, 2007, 04:13:54 PM »

Quote from: DrivingMissLazy
Sure sounds like the starting capacitor. I would try one first before removing the motor assembly.
Unfortunately if you replace the motor and the capacitor is bad, then it still will not run. Capacitors are cheap compared to a motor.
Richard           

Richard I'm thinking that Nick is saying if a new motor is only $ 105.00 he'd go ahead and replace it as well as a bad capacitor (if the capacitor is bad!). And I have to agree with Nick, if all else is good and you've got it tore down that far why not add a few more yrs worth of insurance that it won't need a motor this time next yr! At least that's the way I interpreted Nick! And also what I would do! FWIW
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
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« Reply #26 on: July 19, 2007, 04:21:34 PM »

I have no problem with replacing the motor if it is needed.

I just like to definitely isolate a problem first as to what is actually bad before I start arbitrarily replacing components. Many times lubricating the bushings/bearings allows a motor to run for a long time with no further action required. Just my way of troubleshooting and doing things. Others may do it differently and that is fine.
Richard



Quote from: DrivingMissLazy
Sure sounds like the starting capacitor. I would try one first before removing the motor assembly.
Unfortunately if you replace the motor and the capacitor is bad, then it still will not run. Capacitors are cheap compared to a motor.
Richard           

Richard I'm thinking that Nick is saying if a new motor is only $ 105.00 he'd go ahead and replace it as well as a bad capacitor (if the capacitor is bad!). And I have to agree with Nick, if all else is good and you've got it tore down that far why not add a few more yrs worth of insurance that it won't need a motor this time next yr! At least that's the way I interpreted Nick! And also what I would do! FWIW
Grin  BK  Grin
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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming:  WOO HOO, what a ride
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« Reply #27 on: July 19, 2007, 04:29:57 PM »

I guess I didn't spell it out clear enough! I should have said "go ahead and test the capacitor and then if it is bad. I'd replace it and the motor since it's tore down that far!

Quote from: DrivingMissLazy
I have no problem with replacing the motor if it is needed.

I just like to definitely isolate a problem first as to what is actually bad before I start arbitrarily replacing components.
Richard   

I agree 100%

Quote from: Busted Knuckle
Quote from: DrivingMissLazy
Sure sounds like the starting capacitor. I would try one first before removing the motor assembly.
Unfortunately if you replace the motor and the capacitor is bad, then it still will not run. Capacitors are cheap compared to a motor.
Richard          

Richard I'm thinking that Nick is saying if a new motor is only $ 105.00 he'd go ahead and replace it as well as a bad capacitor (if the capacitor is bad!). And I have to agree with Nick, if all else is good and you've got it tore down that far why not add a few more yrs worth of insurance that it won't need a motor this time next yr! At least that's the way I interpreted Nick! And also what I would do! FWIW
Grin  BK  Grin

Grin  BK  Grin
« Last Edit: July 19, 2007, 04:32:00 PM by Busted Knuckle » Logged

Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
Huntingdon, TN 12 minutes N of I-40 @ exit 108
www.kylakesidetravel.net

Grin Keep SMILING it makes people wonder what yer up to! Grin (at least thats what momma always told me! Grin)
DrivingMissLazy
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« Reply #28 on: July 19, 2007, 04:33:53 PM »

I can agree with that with no problem. Especially if he already has the motor. Otherwise I suspect I would save the $105 to put on something else. LOL
Richard

I guess I didn't spell it out clear enough! I should have said "go ahead and test the capacitor and then if it is bad. I'd replace it and the motor since it's tore down that far!

Quote from: DrivingMissLazy
I have no problem with replacing the motor if it is needed.

I just like to definitely isolate a problem first as to what is actually bad before I start arbitrarily replacing components.
Richard   

I agree 100%

Quote from: Busted Knuckle
Quote from: DrivingMissLazy
Sure sounds like the starting capacitor. I would try one first before removing the motor assembly.
Unfortunately if you replace the motor and the capacitor is bad, then it still will not run. Capacitors are cheap compared to a motor.
Richard           

Richard I'm thinking that Nick is saying if a new motor is only $ 105.00 he'd go ahead and replace it as well as a bad capacitor (if the capacitor is bad!). And I have to agree with Nick, if all else is good and you've got it tore down that far why not add a few more yrs worth of insurance that it won't need a motor this time next yr! At least that's the way I interpreted Nick! And also what I would do! FWIW
Grin  BK  Grin

Grin  BK  Grin
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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming:  WOO HOO, what a ride
Barn Owl
Roanoke, VA
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« Reply #29 on: July 19, 2007, 05:01:29 PM »

Capacitors go bad more often than you might think. You can test capacitors with your multi-meter. Many multi-meters have the ability to easily test them built in. Do an internet search on how to test capacitors and test before you spend $105. I agree with Richard, use the money somewhere else if you donít need a motor.
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L. Christley - W3EYE Amateur Extra
Blue Ridge Mountains, S.W. Virginia
Itís the education gained, and the ability to apply, and share, what we learn.
Have fun, be great, that way you have Great Fun!
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