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Author Topic: Rusty Bumper Mounts  (Read 3070 times)
DavidInWilmNC
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1978 MC-8 as I bought it May 2005




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« on: August 20, 2007, 11:26:33 AM »

I removed the rear bumper yesterday to make it a bit easier to replace the lowest coolant hoses on my MC-8.  After I got them off, I noticed how rusty the mount areas are - so much for bolting a hitch to this area.  This doesn't look like a terribly difficult repair.  Here are my thoughts:

1)  Plate over the sections after removing as much rust as possible.  I could grind down the original weld and attach the plate to the stainless like the originals.  The problem I see is that water would continue to get between the pieces after welding burned of any paint I might apply.

2)  Cut out the rusty sections entirely and weld a piece of plate steel in its place.  I would weld a diagonal of square 1-1/4" square tube along the top to reinforce it.  This would likely be stronger than what was there originally.  Again, how does one keep moisture out of square tube in a situation where there might be a part that's not sealed off by welding?  I'd considered filling the diagonal tube with Great Stuff through a small hole once the welding was finished.

How have others repaired similar damage on their buses?  Alternately, how would others go about repairing damage like this on their buses?  Thanks for any input or suggestons.

David

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tekebird
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« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2007, 11:45:02 AM »

Man, That Ain't Rosty, You should look at an Eagle!


LOL, Couldn't resist
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DavidInWilmNC
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« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2007, 11:55:34 AM »

Man, That Ain't Rosty, You should look at an Eagle!


LOL, Couldn't resist

And that's why I bought an MCI!   Wink 
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luvrbus
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« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2007, 12:09:29 PM »

Wait till you get to the front
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DavidInWilmNC
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« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2007, 01:15:58 PM »

Wait till you get to the front

Wow guys, what helpful suggestions!  Wink  The front has a bit of rust in the trusses (for lack of a better description) on each side of the spare tire.  I'm not as concerned with that, as it still seems structurally sound.  I know there is some rust behind the stainless, but it's not too bad.  It's not like whole pieces are missing.  For now, though, I'm going to concentrate on the rear bumpers.  I called a metal supplier and can get a 4' X 8' sheet of steel plate for $122 (3/16") or $150 (1/4"); is this reasonable?  I think the 3/16" will work, as this is certainly thicker than what was there originally.  They have a 'remnant' section that I can plunder through as well for cheap scrap.

David
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gus
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« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2007, 05:01:12 PM »

David,

Go through the scrap pile! A 4x8" sheet is VERY heavy and from the photos it appears you don't need a large amount.

It is also hard to cut unless you have a plasma cutter.  An Acetylene cutting torch makes too much of a mess and a saw takes forever so have them cut it to size for you, you won't be sorry.
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PD4107-152
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DavidInWilmNC
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« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2007, 05:42:32 PM »

David,

Go through the scrap pile! A 4x8" sheet is VERY heavy and from the photos it appears you don't need a large amount.

It is also hard to cut unless you have a plasma cutter.  An Acetylene cutting torch makes too much of a mess and a saw takes forever so have them cut it to size for you, you won't be sorry.

Gus,

Yeah, it is heavy; I believe he said 270lbs.  They charge $40 or $50 as a minimum price, so it won't be much in the way of savings to have them cut it.  I've got a good friend down the street who'll let me use his plasma cutter anytime.  It's got to be one of the best time savers ever.  I'm going to check and see what they have for scrap.  I'll need some for the front (in the spare tire bay), to mount the passenger seats, to fabricate the hitch, and those rear bumper mounts.  I may be able to store it at a friends shop.  I guess it'll all depend on what's available in their scrap section.

David
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Dallas
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« Reply #7 on: August 20, 2007, 06:41:22 PM »

David,
Just go to your friendly, local scrap metal recycler... he'll sell you metal at scrap prices. he'll even load it for you.

You take it home and cut it to your hearts content.
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maria-n-skip
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« Reply #8 on: August 20, 2007, 08:00:05 PM »


 David,

   I would like to thank you for your post and picture. I went and checked my bus this evening.
 Guess what I saw the start of some rust like your picture shows. I have missed that in the past.
 Luckily I have found it while it is still surface.

 Thanks

   Skip
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compedgemarine
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« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2007, 08:42:06 PM »

if you can find someone in your area that does water jet cutting they can make the piece to within a couple of thousanths of the template drawing you give them. we do this all the time and the people we deal with make so much stuff that they buy cheaper than you and I and can sometimes incorporate your parts into a big sheet of whatever they may be cutting for someone else so they can use the whole sheet. our guys can cut up to 6" thick plate steel and usually do it for a pretty good price especially when you add in your own time to try and cut an fit plate steel.
steve
1981 Eagle--so yes I cut and weld alot
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kyle4501
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« Reply #10 on: August 21, 2007, 05:10:49 AM »

David,
I work in a manufacturing plant & the 4' x 8' sheets are way too heavy for 1 or even 2 people to handle without a lift. I've found that the 'drops' are much easier to handle, cheaper, & usually I can use 2 edges on the piece & save cutting. So Dallas is right about where to shop.  Grin
We use hole saws, drills, & jig saws to cut metal. The jig saw is slow, but sometimes faster than taking it down the street.  Wink  (get good blades tho)

Cut off wheels in a grinder work well too.

I wouldn't trade my port-a-band for nuthin!  Grin

There is a shop next door that has a laser cutter that can cut 3/4" steel & 1/2" stainless, the tolerance is a few thousandths. Great for those intricate things & the price is better if you can provide a good autoCAD drawing. Cool
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I know you believe you understand what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant. (R.M. Nixon)
cody
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« Reply #11 on: August 21, 2007, 05:33:57 AM »

Yeah, yeah pick on the poor eagles lol, at least we get our plates cheaper each year cause our plates here in michigan are bases on weight lol.
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Sojourner
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« Reply #12 on: August 21, 2007, 05:34:51 AM »

Thanks for your photos support.
Mine was that bad & filled with salt & sand from Michigan.

If you can find a metal fabricators shop (look in yellow page), they have cut-off scrap pieces of all common shape of metal. Stainless Steel  scrap can be had  at .10+ cent on a dollar. Which I did. Look for gauge 11 or thicker for either mild steel or SS. Have it sheared to size. Hole saw the large hole using very slow rpm drill press using old used diesel engine oil for cutting. Also use square tubing for diagonal in between plates.

Secret of hole saw cutting is never over heat the teethes. Cutting oil help but still cutting at very slow speed and relieve it every 5 rpm or so to knock-off shaving from teeth while turning using a small 6” long rod to tapping it till ringing then add squirt of oil to avoid cutting dry in metal. SS will require slower rpm than mild steel. If you see metal shaving coming out dry & colored darker than cold metal…..you are turning too fast even with cutting oil. Good cutting oil is better yet such as “Tap-Magic” for steel & SS. They have difference one for cutting aluminum. This what we use at General Motor Engineering Staff. I am sure others may be better but had no problem at GM ES.

You also needs several pieces of mild steel spacers for each pr of bolt’s holes that go in between both plates. Spacer is lathe cut to proper length so that when draw the bolt to tighten, it will avoid collapsing and stay torque at all time. Spacer is either ¾” OD larger diameter hollow rod or solid rod or shaft. Have solid ones either lathe drilled or try straight drill with drill press vice.

Here a link to metal gauge to inches conversion:
http://www.onlineconversion.com/forum/forum_1021325560.htm

Here a link to metal hole saw cutting speed chart to save you $$$ plus time wasted:
http://www.vermontamerican.com/NR/rdonlyres/F1D82584-27AA-449C-90B6-39FAA20F1FB6/0/VAKC_HoleSawCuttingSpd.PDF

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
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steamguy56
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« Reply #13 on: August 21, 2007, 08:05:30 AM »

If you do your shoppping at local junkyard, don't be surprised at the cost of the stainless. At one point of this summer I was paying 1.50 per pound, it has started to come down alittle now.
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DavidInWilmNC
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1978 MC-8 as I bought it May 2005




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« Reply #14 on: August 21, 2007, 08:35:31 AM »


 David,

   I would like to thank you for your post and picture. I went and checked my bus this evening.
 Guess what I saw the start of some rust like your picture shows. I have missed that in the past.
 Luckily I have found it while it is still surface.

 Thanks

   Skip

It's great that one persons's 'problems' are able to benefit another.  I've learned so much from these forums that it's amazing.  I wouldn't / couldn't have gotten as far as I have without all the help I've received.

David
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