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Author Topic: Rusty Bumper Mounts  (Read 3118 times)
mikelutestanski
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« Reply #30 on: August 22, 2007, 07:23:36 PM »

Hello this shows the guts of the hitch which is being modified to add plates for ease of installation.  no cutting to get it off the bus for engine removal.   Mike
« Last Edit: August 22, 2007, 07:25:17 PM by mikelutestanski » Logged

Mike Lutestanski   Dunnellon Florida
  1972 MCI 7
  L10 Cummins  B400R  4.625R
mikelutestanski
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« Reply #31 on: August 22, 2007, 07:39:10 PM »

This is essentially the same as the previous but the other side. The T bar extending back actually keeps the hitch from bending downward. The guide bars are bolted on the bottom with two bolts going up. They were an earlier addition but will not keep the hitch from bending. The T bar does that well I would or should have made the receivert shorter and next time I will shorten it. THe longer receiver can get stuck in the road if the hill is steep enough . That is another story .  mike
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Mike Lutestanski   Dunnellon Florida
  1972 MCI 7
  L10 Cummins  B400R  4.625R
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« Reply #32 on: August 22, 2007, 08:10:50 PM »

I think this hitch stuff is off the original topic but in my case I used another .25 plate that bolts up to the new .5 plate for the hitch figuring that the plates would keep the hitch straight.  not true....
      I thought  the hitch  would work with the .25 plate and the tube across the bottom but it did not. I had to add the angle on the inside to get it home and later the T bar and the 10 by 12 plates were added and bolted on both sides to make it easy to take out.  The T bar in the back runs under the receiver and keeps it rigid.
    I probably can explain this better by chatting if anyone is interested . 
      The next hitch I make will be incorporated into the bottom of the front mount for the L10. It will not stick out as far.   If these pictures are in the wrong spot please move them. Happy bussing    mike
 
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Mike Lutestanski   Dunnellon Florida
  1972 MCI 7
  L10 Cummins  B400R  4.625R
maria-n-skip
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« Reply #33 on: August 22, 2007, 09:06:10 PM »

Mike,

 I think that was a great series of pics with explanations.

   I learned alot.

  If your segment gets moved hopefully it will be in a place easy to find

 Thanks
 Skip
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Busted Knuckle
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« Reply #34 on: August 22, 2007, 09:50:52 PM »

OK,
Here's a picture that Jack sent me:

 "Anyhow this is a photo of the rear frame after repair on Sojourner's bus.  The lower and diagonal framing members are 1 1/2" square tubing.  The plates are 1/8" or 3/32" thick.  All material is stainless steel and was welded with a mig welder using stainless wire.  Jack"

Where is the bus? Are you sure it wasn't an Eagle? Looks as though it may have rusted completely away! All I see is some frame and a lot of GRASS! LOL!
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
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Sojourner
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« Reply #35 on: August 22, 2007, 10:14:45 PM »

Thanks Jack & Dallas for post this photo of my one of my Sojourner projects. Jack took this picture while it at his place....I am 516 mile away at new home in SC. He did a favor (took photo) for me to further explain what I already done a few years ago….yes..it getting rusty…need to get it finish the rest of the project. In a few months (the Lord willing) it going to be move to Elloree, SC when I get it road ready to finish it.

FWIW here my version of repairing the rusted bumper support.
As mention in my earlier post # 13, I use scrap piece of 11 ga. SS. from a fabricator shop. Have it sheared to size. Hole saw the large hole using very slow rpm drill press using old used diesel engine oil for cutting. Also use square tubing for diagonal in between plates.
However the diagonal square tubing on my Sojourner is continue beyond the vertical frame to connect to new “belt-line” main frame. So in this photo it doesn’t show the rest of diagonal square tubing. But for a normal MCI version…a diagonal piece can be a narrow plate instead of square tubing.

About the hitch mounting….I cut a ˝” thick mild steel plate to fit within the top engine chassis rail to bottom diagonal tube frame. Do the same for other side. Cut another identical ˝” thick piece to weld on end of 10K pound production version hitch. The original truck production hitch was too long (or wide) to fit so I cut both ends to weld the “identical” plate with matching 4 holes drilled to fit onto ˝”  threaded holes. The rest of the hitch is already equips with the tongue that is perpendicular & added web plate to center of heavy main square production’s tubing. No needs of more reinforcement added because the production version is build to 10K spec and mounting same as high-end motor coach.

I brought a 10K hitch similar to this link:
http://search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=s-4351&bool=AND&category=b_product&maxhits=1&keywords=dt2617&GO=GO%21

As you see it extra wide or long but cut to fit in between. Discard the end pieces. After the above quote of the modified work done….use class 8 bolts to mount. It can be remove to slide out the engine for major servicing.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
« Last Edit: August 22, 2007, 10:20:13 PM by Sojourner » Logged
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