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Author Topic: Travel Lock for Frig  (Read 3506 times)
FloridaCliff
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« on: August 31, 2007, 04:39:28 PM »

What are you all using to keep your door closed underway.

While under construction I used a strip of Velcro, now i need something with a more finished look.

This is for a Apt size 10 cu ft electric fridge freezer over beer, I mean food.



How does the one in the picture work anyway?

Cliff
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« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2007, 04:48:07 PM »

Great minds must think alike, Cliff. I just ordered (2) bronze marine cabin door hooks (the E-place) and will use them.  Jack cautioned me about drilling into the door because of the defrost coils which might be in there. 

Since you and I have the same reefer I thought I'd pass this along.  I'm planning on gluing the stationary portion of the hook to the door and the actual hook portion to the adjacent wall.  If you need a pic of the hooks I got or a link...let me know.

Bob
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« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2007, 04:53:39 PM »

We use a child strap from wallyworld. We attached a velcro dot (shown in second photo) so we can fold them back out of the way when parked.

Works well, so far.

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Craig Shepard
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FloridaCliff
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« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2007, 05:01:15 PM »

Bob,

Post the link on here for posterity and any photo's...I am looking for ideas...Thanks

Craig,

That was one of the first ones I was thinking about...I was wondering how they would hold up...

I like the Velcro idea, one of my criteria is that they get out of the way when not needed..Thanks

Keep the idea's coming

Cliff

« Last Edit: August 31, 2007, 05:06:32 PM by FloridaCliff » Logged

1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

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« Reply #4 on: August 31, 2007, 05:05:39 PM »

I didn't get the one pictured by you but bought the more pricey one and it works fine. You can install it so that when you pull on it it unlatches and when the door closes it relatches. Jerry
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FloridaCliff
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« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2007, 05:07:56 PM »

Jerry,

Have a link, part no, source?

...Thanks

Cliff
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1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

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« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2007, 05:11:38 PM »

I have a thin nylon strap, 1 1/2 wide that is attached to the wall behind the fridge. When underway, I pull it forward, and loop it through the the two fridge handes, then velcro back on itself...very secure and nothing to break if I forget and pull when the strap is in place.
When parked it is unhooked from the handles, and hangs behind the fridge, out of sight.

Jay
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« Reply #7 on: August 31, 2007, 05:44:04 PM »

Sorry for the delay I am on satellite and seems there must be storms affecting service. the Item is in the dealer rv parts and accesories catalog. 03-0643 is the item number and is is called safloc refrigerator door latch Jerry
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« Reply #8 on: August 31, 2007, 05:59:44 PM »

 The threaded holes are already in the fridge (left or right hinge). A piece of stainless, a little imagination, a little time.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2007, 06:01:32 PM by jjrbus » Logged

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« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2007, 06:02:12 PM »


AHHHHHHHH.  At last.... Validation for buying an RV style LP fridge!  Latches are part of the deal.  At minor additional cost of course!  Wink
As Gump says, there are all sorts of childproofing door latches for home refrigerators.
Probably any appliance store, as well as most big box stores have something to offer.
Looking for you next month!  Reckon NCBob, aka CannonballBob, will bring some beer...liquid refreshments?   Cheesy
He would'a been busted for interstate ATF violations (import/export business?) had he been stopped when traveling to the last T'Ville event!
Had a significant amount of Kronies hidden in the belly of his bus. Bob my friend!   Cheesy
See ya, JR   Cool


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JR Lynch , Charlotte, NC
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« Reply #10 on: August 31, 2007, 11:28:17 PM »

What Latch? - We don't need no friggin Latch - Have you ever seen a 1 gallon MILK BOMB - LOL
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
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« Reply #11 on: September 01, 2007, 03:31:47 AM »

Hi Cliff,

I think I have the fix....
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
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« Reply #12 on: September 01, 2007, 03:33:10 AM »

Ahhhh, Just kidding..

Now, here is the Fix!

http://www.onestepahead.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=364760

Nick-
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Gary '79 5C
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« Reply #13 on: September 01, 2007, 03:53:37 AM »

Way to go Nick and all others,
You guys can find and source anything, I have share a secretary who can only find time for her next break...
I am  most partial to Jjrbus's solution of utilizing the mounting holes which were there.
Just like me the solution was just there staring me back at me...

Take care all and Happy Labor Day,
Remember Our Forces who never get a day off...

Gary

P.S. It amazes me to type " Our Forces" and have all of the negativity within our country towards Our Forces, but proud to do so.
Sorry to get off topic. Rambling with coffee.
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« Reply #14 on: September 01, 2007, 05:31:07 AM »

If the fridge is mounted crossways it requires a more secure fastener than if mounted to the bus wall. I tried the commercial plastic latch and it failed on a sudden stop. A phone call to the company got me the info that under federal law, a refrigerator latch could not be positive and must release under specific pressure. This was because of children being suffocated in abandoned refrigerators.

I used a rather crude system by taking the pin out of a stainless hinge and fastening one piece to each door and the mating piece to the box. When ready to travel, drop a piece of wire in the hinge. Throw away the piece of wire if you discard the fridge so that you don't violate the law.
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« Reply #15 on: September 01, 2007, 06:52:20 AM »

Cliff,
  I used a couple brass cabin latches from West Marine, similar to what NCBob used. I initially installed them using double face foam tape. This did not hold up well. I now have them installed using Goop. I put a good sized drop of Goop on the back of the latch mounting plate and placed in in position on the door/door frame. I used duct tape to hold everything in place until it set up. I then trimmed the excess with a utility knife. So far, they are all working and have not loosen up. I like these because a quick glance from the driver's seat lets me know if we are REALLY ready to start moving.  Jack
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« Reply #16 on: September 01, 2007, 09:40:43 AM »

I bought a house fridge that has the freezer on the bottom with drawers so it doesn't need a lock. The top fridge part I drill throu the plastic above the (left /) right hinge bracket and used a pin on a chain.

Ron
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« Reply #17 on: September 01, 2007, 01:44:10 PM »

I used a marine latch.  Chrome, easy to use, strong enough to hold it closed under hard braking.  Way better than having food roll all the way down the aisle!! dont ask how I know, but its related to the velcro didn't hold.
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Jim Stewart
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« Reply #18 on: September 01, 2007, 06:46:15 PM »

Gary,

As a retired member of "Our Forces" I have yet to meet even one person who is against them/us.

On the other hand, I have met many people who are against the idiots who sent our forces to Iraq. Don't ever confuse being against these people with being against our forces.

Wanting to get them all home and safe is being for them, not against.
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FloridaCliff
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« Reply #19 on: September 02, 2007, 09:29:06 AM »

Guys,

Thanks for ALL the great ideas.

I am always amazed at what Busnuts come up with.  Smiley

I have a few favorites that I will be investigating further.

Nick,

I will use the chain idea to save the contents from my two kids, they can consume some food, yet they are skiny as a rail.

Oh, for those days again!  Roll Eyes  Tongue

Cliff

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1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

"There are basically two types of people. People who accomplish things, and people who claim to have accomplished things. The first group is less crowded."
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belfert
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« Reply #20 on: September 02, 2007, 09:42:13 AM »

What about the locks used on double hung windows?  I was thinking I could mount one half on the edge of the door and the other half on the edge of the fridge.

This thread reminded me I need to do this before my trip in four weeks.
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« Reply #21 on: September 02, 2007, 06:59:01 PM »


Brian, I know you got lots of things to do, so remember that 100 MPH duct tape (military/race car duct tape, not that $#!+ that Lowes sells) will solve your fridge door problem.   Cheap and quick....and dirty.  I garuntee it'll work.  There's always Bungee too.   
Hey...maybe a backup?   Wink
Hope ya'll get those fridge doors under control!
JR


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JR Lynch , Charlotte, NC
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
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« Reply #22 on: September 02, 2007, 07:54:03 PM »


Brian, I know you got lots of things to do, so remember that 100 MPH duct tape (military/race car duct tape, not that $#!+ that Lowes sells) will solve your fridge door problem.   Cheap and quick....and dirty.  I garuntee it'll work.  There's always Bungee too.  
Hey...maybe a backup?   Wink
Hope ya'll get those fridge doors under control!
JR




Hi JR,
One more thing....
Don't forget to bolt the refrigerator to the bus!
Someone I know, [and I won't mention who] slid his refrigerator back into it's hole at a record 16 seconds while doing 65 mph.......

Nick-
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« Reply #23 on: September 02, 2007, 08:29:11 PM »

Bolting in my fridge is on the list of things to do.  The fridge has been in for a while, but never used.  It is held in place via a tie down strap at present.

The fridge door faces forward so a quick stop could probably cause the door to open with duct tape as the latch.
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« Reply #24 on: September 02, 2007, 08:51:43 PM »

I have a RV gas/elec fridge with the built in latches that work . . . . most of the time  Shocked

So for added insurance, we've added small eyebolts on either side of the fridge & use a bungee cord as an extra safeguard to ensure the stuff stays inside . . . . at least until we open the door  Grin


But, Alas, this is in a lowly Airstream trailer & it might not apply to the bus  Grin
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« Reply #25 on: September 03, 2007, 05:30:36 AM »

Brian: With the fridge facing forward you have another problem. Even in normal driving, things on the shelves tend to move forward and end up balanced on the edge of the shelf against the door. A real booby trap when you open the door and things fall on the floor. Camping World used to sell spring loaded rods that you could put across the front of the shelf to hold everything in place. The ones they sold were for RV fridges and were not long enough for large house type fridges so I made my own out of  round telescoping curtain rods.
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« Reply #26 on: September 03, 2007, 06:31:41 AM »

Brian: With the fridge facing forward you have another problem. Even in normal driving, things on the shelves tend to move forward and end up balanced on the edge of the shelf against the door. A real booby trap when you open the door and things fall on the floor. Camping World used to sell spring loaded rods that you could put across the front of the shelf to hold everything in place. The ones they sold were for RV fridges and were not long enough for large house type fridges so I made my own out of  round telescoping curtain rods.
   When we installed our "house type" refrigerator, the shelves had about a 1" lip that faced down on the rear of the shelf. We took the shelves out, turned them over and around before putting them back in. We now have a 1" lip pointing up across the front edge of each shelf. My wife also found that the anti-slip rubber mat stuff they sell at Camping World helps keep stuff from sliding around on the shelves.  Jack
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« Reply #27 on: September 03, 2007, 09:51:09 AM »

Nick wrote: One more thing....
Don't forget to bolt the refrigerator to the bus!

And also don't forget to plan access to those bolts for a future replacement/repair!    Shocked

Cliff
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1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

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« Reply #28 on: September 03, 2007, 10:23:22 AM »

Bolting in my fridge is on the list of things to do.  The fridge has been in for a while, but never used.  It is held in place via a tie down strap at present.

The fridge door faces forward so a quick stop could probably cause the door to open with duct tape as the latch.

My 18cf house fridge faces forward, right in the center of my kitchen space. As long as there is anything substantial in the wall behind the fridge to tie to, securing it there is very simple, very inexpensive, and easily accomplished in about 15 minutes.
Also easy to detach if service or replacement is needed.

By lucky accident each of my fridge shelves has about an 1/8 lip on the front of each shelf that prevents things moving too far forward in a panic stop. The strap on the door takes care of the rest.

Jay
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« Reply #29 on: September 03, 2007, 10:48:12 AM »

Nick wrote: One more thing....
Don't forget to bolt the refrigerator to the bus!

And also don't forget to plan access to those bolts for a future replacement/repair!    Shocked

Cliff


My 12 cu ft house fridge, (Remember when that was a house sized fridge? Now it's considered a small apartment size!), is bolted to the floor through the bay. If I need to move it, I only have to undo the bolts and out it comes.

The tie back we use on it is a long Velcro strap that came with the accordion stand for our dump hose. I riveted it to the side of the fridge and wrap it around the door two or three times so the strap itself is what is holding the door, not the Velcro.

Dallas
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« Reply #30 on: September 03, 2007, 08:28:05 PM »

I was at my daughters today, and she has a slick set up to keep the kids out of the fridg. It is a kiddie latch of some type, but the nice thing about it is that it is held to the door and side of the fridge with sticky tape, and it operates with your thumb as you pull on the handle.
I always forget to release the latch and it will not open without depressing the thumb latch. Very well made, but I forgot to ask her where she got it, probably wally world or somewhere like that
Jim
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« Reply #31 on: September 04, 2007, 02:38:30 PM »

Nice pictures everyone.  I need to learn how to do that.  Finally a question I can answer from direct, but old, experience.  We found that ALL the stuff INSIDE the box had to be secured as well as the two (2) front doors. 

What we learned (the hard way!) is that EVERYTHING inside needed to be secured inside a "containment" container like eggs and all the other packaged stuff everyone has, then padded together using clean towels and clothes.

The two outside doors were eventually secured by several strips of velcro attached to glued portions.  Cheap, easy and quick.  And yeah, we had to reinforce the entire reefer to the floor as some Interstate holes were DEEP!!  Smiley Smiley
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« Reply #32 on: September 05, 2007, 07:44:00 AM »

My refrig is 16 cu ft, and I have not ever secured anything inside it.  Have not had any problems, although its true whe I buy a dozen of eggs, they stay in the carton and I don't let them roll around.  Soda's, beer, salad stuff, condiments, milk, everything just sits in there ready for me when I need it.

Here is a picture of my latches.  There is some residue adhesive around the latch from where I had tried velcro patches.  The adhesive held, but the velcro did not.  Too much weight, or too small a velcro patch.  The latches are easier and faster than the velcro was.
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Jim Stewart
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« Reply #33 on: September 05, 2007, 07:52:40 AM »

We kept it simple, we took a travel lock of an older S&S refrigerator and had to shim it out slightly to make it reach, used a small piece of paneling to shim it, and to holds the doors shut. it's just a t shaped piece of plastic with a pivot point at the base, swings forward to latch, back to unlock. The 'T' holds both the freezer door closed and the refrigerator door closed at the same time.  We've never had any movement or spillage inside the refrigerator, not sure if thats because of the way my wife shoehorns 18 cubic feet of food into a 14 cubic foot refrigerator or if it's because of the superior ride of the Eagles lol.
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