Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
April 17, 2014, 05:37:21 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: This BB is intended for the sole purpose of sharing conversion and bus related information among visitors to our web site. These rules must be followed in order for us to continue this free exchange of info. No bad mouthing of any business or individual is permitted. Absolutely no items for sale are to be posted, except in the Spare Tire board. Interested in placing a classified or web ad, please contact our advertising dept. at 714-903-1784 or e-mail to: info@busconversions.com.

   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Where to get Radiator Hose  (Read 1255 times)
Fred Mc
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 365




Ignore
« on: September 02, 2007, 12:01:46 AM »

I plan to remove the radiator on my GM PD4106 and think it would be a good time to replace the hoses.

Where do you get the rad hoses? Are they pre-formed or do you buy regular straight hose that is flexible?

Thanks

Fred Mc.
Logged
rv_safetyman
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2199


Jim Shepherd


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2007, 07:58:10 AM »

Fred, all of the truck and bus applications that I have seen use curved metal tubing connected with straight hose.  Curved hose has very little reinforcement in it (knit construction) and should never (in my opinion) be used in our application.  The same is true of the so called flexible hose (corrugated). 

You can get the hose you need from NAPA.  They carry brand name hose (mostly Gates) and it is very heavy duty.  The hose is stocked in 6 foot lengths, but they will cut it to some shorter length if you wish (I think - I always by the full length and carry the extra as a spare). 


I very much prefer premium rubber hose over silicone hose for our relatively low mileage application.  Silicone hose is much harder to get to seal than rubber hose.  Further, if you try to reuse silicone hose, you may not ever get it to seal. 

Silicone hose will last forever, but rubber hose will probably last for 10 years or more under our conditions.  In addition, silicone hose is very expensive.  Remember that our temperatures are way below the modern automotive applications and that hose lasts a long time and it is cheap hose.

I was in the rubber industry for 34 years and would be more than happy to review the hose you choose if you look it up on NAPA online. 
 
No matter which hose you use, be sure to really go over the metal parts with a wire brush (powered is best) and use the spring type clamps.

Jim
Logged

Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/
buswarrior
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3571


'75 MC8 8V71 HT740




Ignore
« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2007, 08:09:05 AM »

Yes, spend lots of ca$h on the modern spring type hose clamps. Don't even think about, just open the wallet and let 'er flow!

Money well spent, better clamping, allows for expansion and contraction without biting into the hose like the old cheapy worm gear jobbies. No cold leaks in these colder northern climates. Darn hard to strip them, or otherwise make them fail without being a gorilla with the tightening.

There are a couple under the rads I wish I had done just that.

I am a sinner, and I know that now. Penance continues...

signed:
convert to the Blessed House of Spring Type Hose Clamps

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Logged

Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
Busted Knuckle
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6447


6 Setras, 2 MCIs, and 1 Dina. Just buses ;D


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2007, 09:03:38 AM »

I agree with using the spring clamps also! But I have been using "Gates Power Grip(s)" Sold by NAPA lately and love them! Slip them over the hose, put the hose on, use heat gun to shrink clamp slightly, start and run engine up to operating temps and wallah fool proof job these clamp totally eliminate cold water leaks! And when brought up to normal engine temps they re-tighten themselves! And they are close to the same price as the spring clamps! FWIW Grin  BK  Grin

PS keep several old style clamps on hand for emergency roadside repairs just in case because the power grips are a 1 time use clamp as it has to be cut off to remove! But I still love them! 
Logged

Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
Huntingdon, TN 12 minutes N of I-40 @ exit 108
www.kylakesidetravel.net

Grin Keep SMILING it makes people wonder what yer up to! Grin (at least thats what momma always told me! Grin)
Sammy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 523




Ignore
« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2007, 09:19:36 AM »

I'm old school - I prefer the spring type clamp.
 Cool
Logged
TomC
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6515





Ignore
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2007, 09:38:21 AM »

At Freightliner our optional radiator hose is the Gates Blue Stripe.  It is a much longer lasting hose than the regular hose without the problems of cold weather leaking that silicone presents.  While changing your hoses, make sure you inspect the metal pipes also.  Note uncommon to have one rust out.  A good way to make a new one is with exhaust pipe.  If it is under 2.5", you can have the exhaust guy rebend you a custom shape pipe.  Just prime and paint the outside and it will last the duration.  Good Luck, TomC
Logged

Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
belfert
Guest

« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2007, 09:40:08 AM »

Most of the hoses in my bus are short pieces of silicone hose between formed metal pipes.  All of the clamps on the silicone hoses are the standard worm gear clamps.

Should I be replacing all of the clamps with spring type clamps or the Power Grip clamps while the coolant is still out and before I reconnect the radiator?
Logged
rv_safetyman
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2199


Jim Shepherd


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2007, 11:28:00 AM »

Brian, I think you will be very sorry if you try to reuse the silicone hose.  I tried it and there was no way that I could keep them from leaking.  Others have had the same problem. 

Gates Green Stripe or Blue Strip hose is among the very best and will seal much better.

Without question, you should use the spring clamps.  I was at Gates when they first introduced the "heat shrink" (my term) clamps.  It always seemed like a good idea, but I could never bring myself to use them.  They have been on the market for 10-15 years, and that would suggest that they are well tested and must work.  Also, if BK likes them, that is good enough for me Smiley.

Jim
Logged

Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/
belfert
Guest

« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2007, 01:47:28 PM »

I tried to get the Power Grip clamps at Napa today, but one store couldn't find them at all and another store only stocked two sizes that the local Thermo King buys by the 100s.

I have replaced several of the silicone hoses, but not all of them.
Logged
Busted Knuckle
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6447


6 Setras, 2 MCIs, and 1 Dina. Just buses ;D


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #9 on: September 02, 2007, 05:15:34 PM »

Most of the hoses in my bus are short pieces of silicone hose between formed metal pipes.  All of the clamps on the silicone hoses are the standard worm gear clamps.

Should I be replacing all of the clamps with spring type clamps or the Power Grip clamps while the coolant is still out and before I reconnect the radiator?

Brian if it were me I would change all the hoses I could and all the clamps too! But that's just me! And you know the saying around here do it your way!
But I say do it now or do it later! It's better to it at home than out on the road!

And as I said I prefer the "Gates Power Grips" they are simple and maintenance free!

FWIW Grin  BK  Grin
Logged

Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
Huntingdon, TN 12 minutes N of I-40 @ exit 108
www.kylakesidetravel.net

Grin Keep SMILING it makes people wonder what yer up to! Grin (at least thats what momma always told me! Grin)
belfert
Guest

« Reply #10 on: September 02, 2007, 08:25:38 PM »

I've replaced most of the hoses, but I can't find the Powergrip clamps in stock.  I was kinda hoping to be back on the road Monday, but it may be worth waiting.  It looks like Freightliner dealers may stock the clamps.
Logged
buswarrior
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3571


'75 MC8 8V71 HT740




Ignore
« Reply #11 on: September 02, 2007, 11:36:00 PM »

The two hoses that are most likely to be a disaster are the two that are the hardest to deal with, and the previous owner's mechanic would have tried his darnedest to "forget".

Bottom rad hoses in your two stroke MCI.

If you can find the clamps on the rad necks, you'll immediately know why a hired hand would skip them.

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Logged

Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!