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Author Topic: Pocket Door  (Read 3554 times)
maria-n-skip
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« on: September 09, 2007, 07:53:41 PM »


 Well after two weeks messing around building one of the two pocket doors needed
 I finally got one up and satisfatory.


   Lessoned learned:

   2-3/4 inch sheets of plywood covered with Formica get very heavey. I didn't want a flimsy door.
  I think the thing could handle a light load .357. I don't really think I need a Safe room.

  So the next one will be honeycombed with 4" holes to lighten it up.

Skip
   

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Dallas
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« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2007, 09:14:44 PM »

Skip,

When we got our PD4103 it had been converted by Custom Coach, (one of their first).
the bathroom door was made from 1" marine grade exterior plywood with formica on both sides. It was held up with a piano hinge screwed into the edge of the plywood with 5/8" brass screws every 2".

When we took it down we found that it weighed close to a hundred pounds!

Since that time, various pieces of it have been a desktop, other pieces have been used as a base to run power tools on.

I never have figured out how it lasted all those years with the piano hinge holding it up!

Dallas
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NewbeeMC9
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« Reply #2 on: September 10, 2007, 03:13:26 AM »


Instead of holes,  how 'bout an SIP,  layer foam insulation with thin plywood on each side then formica.  Strong, light weight, sound dampening,  foam is a little cheaper than plywood too.  could use paneling etc.


do it your way. Smiley

Dallas,  I guess we underestimate piano hinges, spreading the load helps,  or they just don't makem like they used to. Wink
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maria-n-skip
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« Reply #3 on: September 10, 2007, 06:50:52 AM »


 Dallas.....Nice to see nothing goes to waste. 1" desktop boy you could rebuild V8 engine on that Wink

 NewbeeMC9,
              I would love to build foam core doors I just haven't worked out how much foam to put in
   so it doesn't blow out the plywood or leave big air pockets. Do I leave vent holes for the extra to come out?
   More investigation I'm sure.


 Skip
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rip
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« Reply #4 on: September 10, 2007, 07:10:29 AM »

Skip;
       If you use the right track weight is not a problem.I used Hettich track on my solid cherry doors with raised panels on one side and full length mirrors on the bath sde.They are heavy but the rollers can take the weight and they can't come off the track.Been travelling fulltime over 4 years and no problems. My wife insisted on full length mirrors.Not my idea.
                      Don
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« Reply #5 on: September 10, 2007, 08:19:13 AM »

Skip, at one time I was going to make foam core pocket doors.

I planned on using the blue Dow foam, sandwiched between two pieces of 1/4" oak paneling with a small oak frame around it.  Contact cement or liquid nails should hold it.

I believe the foam is available in 1/2" thick pieces. That would make the door about an inch thick.

Ed
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maria-n-skip
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« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2007, 08:34:27 AM »


 I must be slow this morning... I was thinking of spray foam not sheet foam.

   Go figure; that would be a lot easier...Smiley


  Skip
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« Reply #7 on: September 10, 2007, 10:40:23 AM »

I made my pocket doors with 3/8 plywood with mirrors on both sides with a raised boarder cap around the edge, 1 3/8 total thickness. They are heavy but the track seem to be holding up and we haven't had any problem with them.
Ron
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Dreamscape
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« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2007, 10:46:23 AM »

I used a standard 1 3/8" hollow core oak for ours, cut it down to the proper height, used standard pocket door hardware and frame, also cut to size. Very light and easy rolling. I will see how it holds up, been in for about a year now.

FWIW,

Paul
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« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2007, 10:51:04 AM »

I have three pocket doors, all hand made, 6 panel, solid red oak, 3/4 inch thick. Nice and solid, without being too heavy.

Jay
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« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2007, 12:42:31 PM »


Hi;
   I have a solid pocket door yet to be installed.
   How do you secure it while on the road? 
                           Thanks,   Merle.                         
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maria-n-skip
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« Reply #11 on: September 10, 2007, 12:52:17 PM »


Merle,
  Closed...I have a pocket door latch from one of the wood supply internet shops.
 
Open....I have seen cloth with snaps or at the back end on the stop velcro glued.
            I don't know how long that would last.
            you can also install the latch on the end off the door like double french doors have.


   There are a lot of ways; it is just how you view it.

  Skip
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« Reply #12 on: September 10, 2007, 01:02:05 PM »

Here is how we latch our pocket doors (both open and closed).  This photo also shows the corner of the panel door I made. I used 5/4 oak for the frame with 1/4" oak plywood for the panels.  The edges of the door frame were milled using a set of panel cutter bits on my router table. This gave me a nice looking, strong, yet lightweight door.  Jack
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maria-n-skip
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« Reply #13 on: September 10, 2007, 01:20:44 PM »

Jack,

   Very nice job!
 I have become a big router supporter with all the things you can do with one!


 Skip
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« Reply #14 on: September 10, 2007, 01:30:22 PM »

How are you guys using pocket doors on buses with non-raised roofs (except for later models that have more headroom)?  I'd love to have pocket doors, but I can't sacrifice the room to frame to get a straight surface.  It seems like there's too much curve in the ceiling to mount some sort of track directly on it.  Has anybody successfully installed a pocket door without framing down any?  I seem to remember a while back somebody had a door that slid on drawer slides...

David
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« Reply #15 on: September 10, 2007, 01:35:16 PM »

I drilled a 5/16 inch hole in the upper right corner of the door frame all the way thru to the inside of the bath. I drilled it first with the door open and then with the door closed. I found a nice stainless rod that fit a little snug in the hole and went clear thru. It works great and you can lock the door open or closed from either side.
Richard
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« Reply #16 on: September 10, 2007, 04:58:04 PM »

I used a standard 1 3/8" hollow core oak for ours, cut it down to the proper height, used standard pocket door hardware and frame, also cut to size. Very light and easy rolling. I will see how it holds up, been in for about a year now.

FWIW,

Paul

Paul,

Thats what I did also.  I put in one for the bedroom and one on the half bath.

I was willing to give up a few inches to use there design and hardware... Grin

Cliff
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« Reply #17 on: April 18, 2010, 09:03:38 PM »

How are you guys using pocket doors on buses with non-raised roofs (except for later models that have more headroom)?  I'd love to have pocket doors, but I can't sacrifice the room to frame to get a straight surface.  It seems like there's too much curve in the ceiling to mount some sort of track directly on it.  Has anybody successfully installed a pocket door without framing down any?  I seem to remember a while back somebody had a door that slid on drawer slides...

David


This is was a concern of  mine as well as I am 6'5".  I could picture a pocket door with a curved top track that would open towards the center of the bus (uphill).  Then you might need some sort of counterweight system or its going to be really hard to operate because your going to be lifting the door about a foot every time you open it.   Anyone have any ideas as to weather this'll work out?
I decided against the above mentioned idea anyway because I wanted to insulate both the bedroom door  and wall and I can't really see that working out with a pocket door anyway.

The best place for a pocket door in my bus looks like the poop house.  I have decided that it needs a door for a variety of reasons. and that door will work because it goes front to back (no curve)
Now I have a few pocket door questions...
I have never installed one before, but I've seen/used them in houses and S&S MH's....
I'm wondering things like:
How much of a gap is  required for the door?  Just the width of the  door  plus 1/4" on each side? 
I guess the overall width of the wall would depend a lot on the thickness of the wall material and door... but is there any other framing other than  a  track or rail screwed to the ceiling?
Should  the door be longer than the door-hole? so you won't be able to see behind it while it's closed? If so how much longer?
And what hardware do you guys recommend for the bus?
I've operated some house pocket doors that were horrible and would bind up all the time, and I've used others that were smooth as could be.
Is that kind of stuff available at HD? or is that more of a special order thing? Or is all the pocket door stuff at HD  really poo?
I've also included the most revised version (after taking some of you guys and a girlfriends advise into account) of my sketch showing my pocket door application.  I wan't it about 28" long and to side into a  28" wall.
Also, should I have started a new thread?  I was searching for pocket door stuff and this seems like the most relevant thread but it's a little older than me.

Thanks,
Philip
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« Reply #18 on: April 19, 2010, 07:59:16 AM »

What if the pocket door used drawer slides at the top and bottom and a roller at the bottom of the leading edge of the door to help support it instead of being suspended from a track above it?  That way no lifting is involved and nothing is overhead to cause you clearance problems.
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« Reply #19 on: April 19, 2010, 09:27:44 AM »

I used full extension drawer slides on mine which is a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and covered all sides with laminate! No problem yet!

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Ace Rossi
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philiptompkjns
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« Reply #20 on: April 19, 2010, 10:43:14 AM »

I used full extension drawer slides on mine which is a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and covered all sides with laminate! No problem yet!


oh yeah, that would solve the problem of going uphill.  It still seems like you couldn't use a pocket door for a center isle doorway though.

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« Reply #21 on: April 19, 2010, 12:08:52 PM »

   With a drawer slide at the top and bottom of the door, the slides must be parallel for smooth operation. With a center aisle, the tallest the door can be is the floor to ceiling height at the lowest corner of the door when open, less the thickness required for the hinges (usually about 1/2" per hinge).  You should see Ace's door in person, he did a gtreat job.  Jack
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« Reply #22 on: April 19, 2010, 04:14:55 PM »

It does sound cool.

you got any build pictures? or just finished pictures Ace?


Does everyone have a wall covering each side on the pocket door? Or is it acceptable to leave one side un-coverd... then it would just be a sliding door I suppose.
I was thinking that leaving the inside wall of the toilet room open might be acceptable, or does that look like trash?
Leaving the inside open in my case would open up several more inches around the toilet area with the door in the closed position.

What do ya'll think?
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« Reply #23 on: April 19, 2010, 04:44:36 PM »

Here is a photo of our bathroom door. There is no wall on the bathroom side and a mirror is installed on the bathroom side.  Jack
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« Reply #24 on: April 19, 2010, 04:57:51 PM »

Here is how my friend made a heavy duty pocket door on our first 4104:
track: round steel rod
sliders: 2 linear bearings
He custom bent brackets to mount the bearings to the door top and to mount the steel rod to the ceiling. Worked like a charm.
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« Reply #25 on: April 19, 2010, 05:32:40 PM »

Here is a photo of our bathroom door. There is no wall on the bathroom side and a mirror is installed on the bathroom side.  Jack

Wow Jack, that is a first class looking interior.  That will be some great inspiration for me, thanks.
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« Reply #26 on: April 19, 2010, 07:31:36 PM »

Phillip
Let me give you a source that you can go to to see if that will work for you. The link is www.rockler.com, when on the site, search for 30839 and 30818. This is not what I used but is what many used. I have a cabinet company here in Springfield that will make cabinet doors 3/4" thick with raised panels on both sides. I had him build me doors. They weight about 45 pounds each and operate on regular pocket door hardware. I put 3/32" gap between the door and the door opening on each side. To put tension on the door itself, I used horizontal strips back inside the "pocket" which have marine carpet stapled to them. The carpet just holds pressure on the door as it opens and closes. One of my doors operates very well, the other is a little to tight but I suspect will get looser with time. Hope the link helps, they have a ton of door hardware. If you don't see what you want, do a goole search for "pocket door hardware". You will find a bunch.

Rob
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« Reply #27 on: April 20, 2010, 06:30:00 PM »

Unless you just like to make your bus heavier and love to make complicated things, a lightweight folding, plastic wood grained door from HD works very well.
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