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Author Topic: Trying to get a STEEL building Quote..  (Read 2956 times)
superpickle
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« on: October 12, 2007, 12:38:44 PM »

Im not sure how high the Roll up door should be.. I dont know what kind of Coach I'll be putting in it yet.
I thought 12' but is that enough for say, a Buffalo ? or a MC9 or ? or an Eagle  Huh Huh
Thanks.. Paul...  Grin Grin
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Lee Bradley
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« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2007, 12:52:21 PM »

I would go 14' high and 12' wide.  I have 12' by 10' doors and have to remove the mirrors and I have about 4" clearance on top for my Cityliner.
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superpickle
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« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2007, 01:01:06 PM »

Oki Doki,, thanks Lee. Thats a BIG help..  Grin....... Kiss
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Connel
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« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2007, 02:03:58 PM »

Paul,
My metal shop has 16' walls and the overhead door is an insulated panel 12' wide x 14' high with a header spring.  Door cost just over $800 installed.  Wanted to use a rollup door but they were $4k (Nov '06 prices).  Really like the insulated panel now that it is installed.  Suggest you not use a smaller door - you will regret it later.

Connel
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« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2007, 02:25:02 PM »

Yeah--about the same answer here.  Go with the WIDEST, TALLEST door that is practical--one never knows what may end up inside YOUR shop.  Also, a couple of extra feet of ceiling height will be welcome if you ever have to climb around on the roof of your coach.  And...while you are at it...a standard work pit with all the lights and stuff would be also soosss cool.  Smiley Smiley
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luvrbus
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« Reply #5 on: October 12, 2007, 02:40:20 PM »

Paul, like everyone says go with the 14ft tall 12ft wide roll up doors i bought my 40x60 from Impact Building check their price for a complete package they are on the web and located in San Antonio TX
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Busted Knuckle
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« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2007, 02:41:33 PM »

Our 60' X 40' Shop has dual 14' X 14' doors side by side on one end and an added on 20' X 20' Office and Parts rooms on the other end! I love the 14' X 14' doors plenty wide & tall for anything! Oh yeah 24' pit in one bay also!
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
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« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2007, 04:18:09 PM »

Hi BK
I am looking at putting up a shop soon for another business but am considering putting in a pit for the bus and cars. Since you use yours for buses is there any thing you recommend or would do different about how yours is? much easier to build it once than to come back and make changes.
thanks
Steve
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cody
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« Reply #8 on: October 12, 2007, 04:52:30 PM »

My bus is 12ft 6 inch tall, I encourage everyone to get a building I can fit into lol.  Just kidding but I think you'll be happier with tall enough doors.  Doesn't matter how big you build the building, it'll never be big enough.
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luvrbus
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« Reply #9 on: October 12, 2007, 05:10:59 PM »

Cody,your right mine is 60x40 and you would be amazed what your wife can find to help fill it at least mine can
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Busted Knuckle
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« Reply #10 on: October 12, 2007, 07:00:55 PM »

Hi BK
I am looking at putting up a shop soon for another business but am considering putting in a pit for the bus and cars. Since you use yours for buses is there any thing you recommend or would do different about how yours is? much easier to build it once than to come back and make changes.
thanks
Steve

Steve you bet there are a few things I'd different! Of course first let me clarify for the record! We rent ours (cheap too!) it was originally built by a dump trk company! So the pit is only 24' long which is plenty to work on a semi tractor or trailer! But the built in steps start in the middle of the shop and head down into the pit going toward the back wall! NO GOOD for a bus! steps are under the middle of the bus! If & when we are forced to move by I-69 we plan to build one more bus friendly!
First I wanna make the pit about 45'-50' feet with steps on the end nearest the wall! Also I'll plumb water, air & electricity when building (our current one only has elect)! I'll also have a moveable oil drain system plumbed into a storage tank, for a waste oil heater! And a waste water drain on a sump system (less likely to back up and attract unwanted critters!)! Last but not least I'll use steel angle iron down both sides to support a rolling I-beam jack support to be able to place a jack where needed to lift a wheel or what ever to make maintenance easier! Might even make a 4 way I-beam cradle that will support a trans jack, etc! Grin  BK  Grin
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
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MedicNovo
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« Reply #11 on: October 12, 2007, 08:14:25 PM »

In August I just built a steel pole barn for my bus it is 34x44.  I went with a 14' interior height and a 12x12 split slider door.  I would recommend a 14x14 door as my MC8 fits just fine but I have to watch height when I add the AC units.  Also since our buses dont turn extremely tight the 14' wide gives you some room to angle your bus in so it dosent have to be in the middle.  Good luck and lets see some finishes pics.
John
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belfert
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« Reply #12 on: October 12, 2007, 08:21:00 PM »

When you are talking steel building, are you talking a steel framed building or a pole barn with steel siding?

I'm planning to build a new house with a garage for my bus.  The city won't allow pole buildings period unless I have 5 acres.  They will allow garages up to 2000 square feet so my plan is to do 40'x50'.  The siding and roof must match the house.  I just today got a quote for $35,000 with Hardie siding, asphalt shingles, and slab.  The side walls will be 14' with special stepped trusses to accomodate a 14' door.

Someone suggested looking into a steel framed building, but no idea where to start on one of those.
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MedicNovo
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« Reply #13 on: October 12, 2007, 08:25:52 PM »

The price was significantly higher when I looked at steel framed buildings.  Pole construction was the way to go for me.  Steel sided asphalt shingle and gravel base was $13,750.  BTW you will like the hardy plank siding.  I have it on my house.
John
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superpickle
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« Reply #14 on: October 12, 2007, 09:37:17 PM »

I was Quoted $22,887.25. by United Steel Building.

35x55x12 (im going to 16 ,with 14x14 rollup doors..
2 walk in doos,
4 3x3 windows Double pain slideing.
4 2x4 skylights
6" insulation , walls and roof.
Roof is 4 in 12 pitch.

Does not include Erection, Slab or plumbing etc etc etc..
Whataya thunk ?
I will Deffinitly take Lots of pics of EVERYTHING..  Grin
« Last Edit: October 12, 2007, 09:39:28 PM by superpickle » Logged

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« Reply #15 on: October 12, 2007, 10:08:26 PM »

Super,

I have a friend in Pa. that built a pole building the same size you are anticipating.  He also with 16 foot walls and a dropped/suspended ceiling.  He did 6 inches of insulation and had the ceiling thickly insulated with fibergalss bats...maybe 12 inches.  In the summer, in the heat and humidity of Pa. , you got a chill when you walked into the place.  In the winter the single house sized furnace kept the place toasty.  It was a cavernious place and he did it right.  No air leaks and a spendy thermo rollup door.  He had the pole and roof done by a pole bld builder and he contracted for the concrete.  The rest he did himself.  He was a frugal sort and I think he did the entire project for 15 or 18 grand in 89.

Good luck on your project, don't scrimp on the insulation and you don't need any windows.

John
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superpickle
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« Reply #16 on: October 12, 2007, 10:22:23 PM »

Super,

I have a friend in Pa. that built a pole building the same size you are anticipating.  He also with 16 foot walls and a dropped/suspended ceiling.  He did 6 inches of insulation and had the ceiling thickly insulated with fibergalss bats...maybe 12 inches.  In the summer, in the heat and humidity of Pa. , you got a chill when you walked into the place.  In the winter the single house sized furnace kept the place toasty.  It was a cavernious place and he did it right.  No air leaks and a spendy thermo rollup door.  He had the pole and roof done by a pole bld builder and he contracted for the concrete.  The rest he did himself.  He was a frugal sort and I think he did the entire project for 15 or 18 grand in 89.

Good luck on your project, don't scrimp on the insulation and you don't need any windows.

John

Oh no, not going cheep on insulation, The 6" was the only Option they gave Id rather have 12"  Grin
Heat will be a Pellet stove. I have one now and its awesome. They put out heat at about 86% efficiency I love it, and it heats our 1600 sq ft well.. Plan on a Tankless water heating system as well. I have that here too. Very economicle. Saves Tons of propane..

How come I dont need any Windows  Huh You dont want me lookin Out  Shocked  Huh

Paul...  Grin
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« Reply #17 on: October 13, 2007, 12:18:38 AM »

Belfert - If they're gonna do that tun key for $17.50 sq.ft. - TAKE IT
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belfert
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« Reply #18 on: October 13, 2007, 05:34:06 AM »

Belfert - If they're gonna do that tun key for $17.50 sq.ft. - TAKE IT

I think it is a good price.  I wonder if the garage guys are hurting due to the housing market?  I was told the other day that bids for home building are up to 15% less than a year or two ago.

My issue is I have an existing house to sell, but my house should be very desireable as it is five years old in an established neighborhood and has a view of a large lake.  I was going to wait on building my new place until I sell my house in the spring, but I found two very nice pieces of land and the owner has dropped the price substantially to get them sold.  I have to decide if I take a gamble and start construction on a new home while I still own my current one.

They aren't making any more land, especially in a large metro area.  A lot of land is locked up in large developments with restrictive convenants that do not allow construction of large garages for a bus.

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DrivingMissLazy
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« Reply #19 on: October 13, 2007, 05:53:37 AM »

For anyone building something like this, I would strongly recommend considering a waste oil furnace that burns waste oil or hydraulic oil. I bought a used one off ebay a few years ago and the savings in natural gas paid for it in about three months.

I was originally concerned about obtaining the waste oil but found it to be absolutely no problem to obtain. The local oil distributor sole me used 55 gallon drums for $5 each and I ended up with about 50 drums of oil when I sold the business.

Many service shops pay someone to take their waste oil, so they were glad to have me take it for free. A free ad in the penny saver brought in many gallons and I finallly had to quit accepting free oil.

Richard
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« Reply #20 on: October 13, 2007, 08:46:22 AM »

Been surfing the net for quotes.. got a call early this morning from "U.S. Buildings"  nice guy, said they been in buisness for 20 years.. he had adeal on pre orderd building that was canceled and Overstock.. My red flags went up emediatly WOOOOP  WOOOPPP Clang Clang Clang...  When i told him that I was Not ready to buy at this time, he said, Well I gotta go sell some buildings BYE..

SCAMM  Tactics.. DONT fall for this Crapp.. Its a common tactic to get you to Buy now so tou dont miss the Reall Big Deal thats NOT a Really bog deal..

US Building is on my SH*T list for sure..  Roll Eyes

Paul....
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« Reply #21 on: October 13, 2007, 09:41:08 AM »

Paul,

For sure be careful in dealing with these people.  I sold a truck to a steele bld builder and it was a serious effort to get my money.  That doesn't mean they are all crooks, for sure but people that are nomadic have a tendancy.....

My friend didn't install windows because they are portals for breakins and they are a big heat sink.  I used his shop for more than a year and I never missed the windows.  Admittedly, I was usually under something or had a welders hood on my head.

Good luck,

John
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« Reply #22 on: October 13, 2007, 09:20:38 PM »

Superpickle, you have to pay for erection? Shocked

For that kind of money you think that would come free!!! Grin

You know others wanted to say it. I just took the time!

Can't wait until I get of of California and my postage stamp sized yard, then I will get me one of those big buildings you guys brag about.

Thanks

Grant
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Grant Goold
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