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Author Topic: Thoughts on using BarsLeak?  (Read 3103 times)
Flyboy
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« on: October 30, 2007, 06:15:51 PM »

Howdy,

Leaving tommorow AM heading south.  On my walkaround I noticed that I've sprung a small coolant leak.  I have a 6N71.  If you're looking at the engine from the back, the leak is on the top of the block to the right of the blower.  Not major but still concerning due to long trip ahead.

There are no bolts in the area to tighten.  Can I use BarsLeak to stop it? 

Thanks in advance.

Aron.
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gus
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« Reply #1 on: October 30, 2007, 06:34:28 PM »

I wouldn't hesitate to use it on my 671 under those conditions. I've used it on my old farm tractors with no problems and don't see how it can harm these ancient engines. The 671 runs cold anyway.
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PD4107-152
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« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2007, 06:38:32 PM »

Go Find a GOOD automotive repair shop that has Wynns Radiator Stop Leak

Hands down the best and safe-est stop leak IMFO

This stuff IS NOT sold in parts stores
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Flyboy
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« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2007, 06:42:28 PM »

OK,

Thanks guys.  I'm probably being overcautious but hey, who can blame me.  I'm sure the jitters will wear off the further south I get.  This is the first big journey in the bus...

Aron.
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Kristinsgrandpa
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« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2007, 06:43:55 PM »

I would check the oil for antifreeze before I do anything.

Loosen the drain plug a couple of turns and if antifreeze is there it will come out first. If the coach is level.

I had great success in getting a Trans-Am from Greensboro to Portsmouth Ohio with the stuff with all the copper flecks in it.

Ed
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Flyboy
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« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2007, 06:47:53 PM »

The oil on the stick looks good, but I will check the plug.  Assuming the the antifreeze goes to low point?

If head gasket is the problem, guess that puts things on hold.

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Dallas
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« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2007, 07:01:31 PM »

Aron,

Take a good look at the water manifold on the other side of the head. You may have a leak there and the coolant is flowing around the head to the lowest point.
If the o-rings in the head were leaking, there probably wouldn't be much visible on the outside since there is an o-ring that goes all the way around the outside circumference of the head where it mates to the block. You would be more likely to find coolant in the exhaust or in the oil.

To find out if there is oil in the exhaust, start the engine from cold and hold your finger in the exhaust stream until the condensation makes it wet. Stick your tongue on the wet finger. If it tastes sweet, there is coolant leaking into it.

You may also only have a cold water leak, where when the engine warms up the leak goes away. these are caused from silicone/nitrile hoses that don't seal with regular clamps.

Make sure you tighten up all your clamps before you take off, run the engine down the road for awhile and see if you still have a leak. If so, use the Barrs Leak. It isn't gonna hurt anything.

Dallas
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Flyboy
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« Reply #7 on: October 30, 2007, 07:02:51 PM »

Pulled the plug...black gold only!! Tongue

I'll try the Wynn's if I can find it...otherwise BarsLeak.

Thanks again.

Aron.
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« Reply #8 on: October 30, 2007, 07:04:21 PM »

Dallas,

I'll have a look at that too.
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Flyboy
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« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2007, 07:07:13 PM »

Hey Dallas,

What is the course of action if I find coolant in exhaust?

Aron.
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Dallas
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« Reply #10 on: October 30, 2007, 07:19:32 PM »

Hey Dallas,

What is the course of action if I find coolant in exhaust?

Aron.

Rent a cherry picker and buy a head set. It should only take you about 3 days to remove the head, have it checked, clean up the deck, replace the o-rings and fire rings, put the head back on, torque it, run the rack and button it up.

Or run it gently using the Barrs leak as needed and go south until you get to a place you can sit and fix it.

6-71's are tough old engines. I ran mine over 1000 miles with a blown O-ring. These engines are just about as bullet proof as it gets.

Take your time and you'll make it.

IHTH,

Dallas
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belfert
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« Reply #11 on: October 30, 2007, 07:39:48 PM »

When I replaced my radiator core a few months back someone told me that radiator stop leak is one of the worst things to put in an engine.  I don't know if age and type of engine would matter.

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bobofthenorth
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« Reply #12 on: October 30, 2007, 07:58:04 PM »

I'm sorry to rain on anyone's parade but I have never had any luck using any kind of crap that you pour in the rad & hope that it will stop a leak.  It gives you a momentary sense that you are doing something and sometimes it doesn't actually make things worse.  The best you can hope for, IMO, is that it will only lighten your wallet by the cost of the stuff you pour in the rad.  The worst you can experience can be a lot worse.

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lostagain
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« Reply #13 on: October 30, 2007, 08:08:50 PM »

Just  drive it for now. The more you run it, the less it will leak. Barsleak or any such snake oil is only temporary at best. If it still leaks after your drive, you'll have to fix it properly, once and for all.
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JC
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« Reply #14 on: October 30, 2007, 08:30:23 PM »

I have had very good luck with Bars leak in the past.  I can't imagine all the solids in that stuff not screwing up something over the long run.  I put that powdered aluminum stuff in a couple of leaker's for friends and it lasted for years.  It also doesn't have the volume of solids to harm anything but it did work.  Put it in a warm engine that has the thermostat open.  If that doesn't work you can also add bars leak later and not have lost much.  Beats having the radiator removed an roded.

John
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