This is lexan thing interesting, I'm trying to think where else i could use it. My MCI (more cash inserted) windows are flat.
guess your high bidder on the bus there kyle, I know how you like your busses to not use much fuel
For the 4501 creating a need for the upper stuff would probably be hard....But for all the 4104 rear windows, which from what i can tell at least half the conversions have covered with sheet metal, it might be possible to have enough "need" BTW did I misread or are the 4104,4106 and 4501 rear windows all the same? THis would increase the need even more....maybe..
Instead of covering with metal I would use Lexan, or something similar, for the rear. If yer brave enough to take one out and use it for a bending mold then you can follow these directions. Thickness may be an issue but I think you can make your own seals with the foam tape that truck toppers use, or something else.
this requires heating your sheet too around 260/280c depending on thickness for it too become rubberised. you can read and make your own Vac former at this link http://http://members.aol.com/GCGassaway/vacuform.htm
bending lexan/plexiglass is rather simple affair
To curve either of these two products
one must invest in a simple homeowners propane torch kit (generally around
$12.00 US). To bend lexan and plexiglass your piece should be clamped
firmly to a strong, stable surface that is preferably indoors. Once you
have clamped the piece begin to heat the panel along the line where you
intend to have it bend. DON'T put the torch too close for too long as it
will cause the plastics to get cloudy or even bubble up. You will know when
the plastic is ready to bend simply by applying pressure to the free end of
your work piece. Large pieces will require the help of a partner who can
apply even pressure along the entire length of the bend while you torch the
plastic keeping a uniform and consistant source of heat applied until you
have achieved the bend or shape your desire.These types of plastics are
also virtually indistructible but they are also a bit more costly. Wall
thicknesses on these products can go up to several inches thick. remember you need too be careful working with HOT and nearly MOLTEN plastics. please get adult supervision if at a young age.
Cutting / Drilling:
Tin Snips (Nice clean cuts). depending on thickness!!
Hack saw (don't cut too fast, or the plastic will melt).
"Utility" (or Hobby) Knife and a metal edged ruler.
Do NOT use a scroll saw due to small blade (it typically 'melts' it's way through the plastic). and can cause problems
Can be drilled (best if drilled by hand). i found hand drilling lexan more easy than hispeed drills these too also tend too melt through the plastic and not cut it. Shaping:
Heat.(Softens at about 290-340F or 143-171C)
Use a strip heater (or use a stove element with two heavy tiles to form a thin strip of heat, or your toaster). or heat torch,oven. remember hot plasics need careful hadling with heat proof gloves when i bend lexan. i will warm up the sheet. But the pipe or whatever you use must be clean. the lexan/plexi will take on any slight imperfection on the item used too form the bend. so be sure too use a item that will be use for bending your plastic only and nothing else.
glass is a almost perfect surface for forming over, bowls work well but will need to be thick glass too widthstand the vacum formed when forming in plastic, steel etc etc its a trail and error thing
hope this helps you guys with the crazy ideas for rigs