Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
October 22, 2014, 08:43:04 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: If you had an Online Subscription: It will not be stolen by your mailman or your neighbor who also may be into buses.
   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: water tight connecters  (Read 2436 times)
NJT 5573
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 808




Ignore
« Reply #15 on: January 31, 2008, 07:46:14 PM »

Tom C gave you the right answer. Use plain old pop rivets and push in aluminum plugs/caps.
Logged

"Ammo Warrior" Keepers Of The Peace, Creators Of Destruction.
Gold is the money of Kings, Silver is the money of Gentlemen, Barter is the money of Peasants, Debt is the money of Slaves.

$1M in $1000 bills = 8 inches high.
$1B in $1000 bills = 800 feet high.
$1T in $1000 bills = 142 miles high
dparker
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 46


mc 7 in progress


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #16 on: January 31, 2008, 08:40:56 PM »

The regular pop rivets with the plugs are what i used.  they worked well.  I used POP rivet brand, i have learned my lesson on that imported crap.  The caps are call mushroom caps, and while I didn't use the dab of silicone, wish i had thought of that,  i have not had a problem and have had them in place for over an year -- i believe that is more important to get the correct rivet for the right applications -- many different sizes grip ranges, applications, and tooling -- typically if you get all of that right things work well -- the mushroom caps look like buck rivets when completed, just take a small hammer and tap them down -- good luck ...
Logged

1972 MC7

Parker Systems, LLC
800 8 PARKER
Dreamscape
Guest

« Reply #17 on: February 01, 2008, 02:21:38 AM »

I have used regular pop rivets on a couple of occasions. Installed the mushroom cap with a dab of silicone and used a plastic hammer to install. I found that a metal hammer left a small dent on the top. It has worked well so far. I also think they look pretty good. I'm cheap, what can I say.... Grin
Logged
pete81eaglefanasty
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 250



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #18 on: February 01, 2008, 03:58:33 PM »

Paul,  Your not cheap, Your just smart. In case you have to remove it, just drill it out by removing the cap.Very easy and a good job at that.


              Pete & Jean
                FANTASY
Logged

WHAT EVER YOU DO, OR TO WHO YOU DO IT TOO, DO IT WITH A SMILE, IT MAKES IT LEGAL THAT WAY.
Dreamscape
Guest

« Reply #19 on: February 01, 2008, 04:07:37 PM »

Thanks Pete.....I do think that if I do many more I will invest in a power gun....The last time I did around 50 my arm was numb.....I know I will have to in the future as I will replace some of the skin that is in bad shape. That is after some RUST repair...That's right, that ugly R word..... Wink

Fun, fun, fun
Logged
mandolinplucker
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 16




Ignore
« Reply #20 on: February 01, 2008, 07:09:12 PM »

I did some digging around and calling around and talked to Hanson rivets that I found on the web. Them and a few others have "closed end" rivets. The salesman wanted to know the application and the thickness of the material to be fastened. The rivet goes on with a regular pop rivet tool and the back end is closed and the "nail head" stays in the back of the rivet. He said that ,if the rivet is sized correctly, it is water tight. It has the hole in it like a regular pop rivet so it looks like it would leak but the back of the hole is solid. It won't look original but the cost is 1/3 the shaved heads and I don't have to buy an expensive tool to make them look pretty.
Logged
Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!