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Author Topic: exhaust wrap  (Read 7811 times)
JohnEd
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« Reply #15 on: January 31, 2008, 01:55:01 PM »

Skip,

You are right.  It is a heat sync but in this case it is a trade off.  Life span vs performance hit. 

You are NOT sloppy...i didn't say that nor mean to imply it.  Great posts on your part but admittedly I am not the expert.

Hope you can come up with that mfr or source for the wrap you have.

Thanks,

John
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gus
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« Reply #16 on: January 31, 2008, 02:35:06 PM »

Talk to Penn Lenson (pennsue@earthlink.net) at EHP.  He can give you the straight dope and is very helpful. Their ad is in BCM.

I used their wet blanket wrap on my generator exhause and it works great.

The blanket wraps around whatever you want to insulate and dries into a hard casing. It can assume almost any shape and can be cut into strips to wrap around exhaust pipes.

I've used it on two different generators and wouldn't have anything else. It is not cheap but it does the job.
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PD4107-152
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Ash Flat, AR
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« Reply #17 on: January 31, 2008, 02:38:58 PM »

Cody,

All the stuff I found on ebay and the net under "wet wrap" or "DEI" or "exhaust wrap" is NOT the correct stuff.  All that is is a fiberglass webbing that you wind on the ex pipe/header.  They say that reduces underhood temps by 70% and would a vendor lie?  Me thinks exaggerate most assuredly.  Imagine what the "REAL" stuff achieves.

John

I'm sure there is better stuff out there ie: space shuttle stuff. I can confirm for the $'s  spent on  the DEI  stuff it is money well spent.  In the case of my Corvette the headers are wrapped leaving only a 1/4 inch exposed from the previous wrap around. You can grab the header tube with your bare hand.  The statement by the manufacturer about it reducing the tempeture under the hood by 70% I was not aware of but I do believe it.  In a Corvette with the firerglass body /  floor pans you can cook your own feet.  I'm just a satisfied customer not a shareholder of DEI. Smiley
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skipn
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« Reply #18 on: January 31, 2008, 04:27:19 PM »

John

  Here is a picture of the tag......somewhat washed
 out by time.....Kind of looke like AIP out of Santa AN....couldn't
 read the rest.   There was no ceramic just a batting with
 a mesh to hold it on.

Hope that helps.

 Skip
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NJT 5573
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« Reply #19 on: January 31, 2008, 08:18:34 PM »

I had great results with a racing product that is sold at longacreracing.com.

This is a 58X24 sheet of aluminized cloth that you can cut with scissors that they will ship to you. The cost is $57.95 and it may take 2 sheets. Click on catalog and insulation when you get to their site. Part # is 64150.

 I used hose clamps to hold the insulation in place, Its going on its 3ed year and is still looking as new. I double wrapped the head to turbo pipes and you can put your hand on the insulation when you pull over. I think it runs better too. I have more insulation to do the intake side parts to get cool air to the engine intake but haven't got around to it yet.

If the pipes were @ 900 degrees before, I bet I dropped the bay temp by at least a couple hundred degrees. I can open and close the engine bay doors without gloves now.
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Sojourner
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« Reply #20 on: January 31, 2008, 11:12:24 PM »

A good exhaust wrap does 2 things if you have turbo but only 1 thing for non turbo.
Biggest of two is increase respond time & less fuel as well keeping compartment cooler & protect nearby heat sensitive part.
Engine’s exhaust to turbo must be maintained in same high temperature as possible to avoid air pressure shrinkage via cooling effect from non-insulation. Other word longer time lag during beginning of acceleration. Also while turbo is being use in climbing and high wind drag, will cause to burn more fuel (depress pedal further) then wrapped set-up.
However turbo to exhaust outlet should be cool as possible to reduce back pressure. Otherwise increase diameter exhausts pipes & wrap for compartment coolness from turbo to outlet with the least bends.

After all turbo perform according of the exhaust given pressure at turbo exhaust inlet, not from engine's exh port.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
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JohnEd
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« Reply #21 on: January 31, 2008, 11:55:30 PM »

Skip,

That is the stuff.  I think the batting you mention is the ceramic I mentioned.  Fiberglass batting will powder off from vibration and heat cycles.  I think that must be Santa ANA or ANNA near LA.  I got nothing from AIP except a half million hits.

The guy that steered us to BC magazine was a Prince.  Page 41 of this months issue lists E.H.P. (Engine Heat Protection.com) in San Juan Capistrano at 949 661 8482 as the source of 1/4 inch "wet wrap" ceramic-based material (?).  They say it is usable to 3,200 degrees...cough.. gasp.  Doesn't matter if that is F or C.  Only problem I see is that it is held in lace with clamps instead of the stitching.
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"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”
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rv_safetyman
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« Reply #22 on: February 01, 2008, 05:30:45 AM »

As was mentioned earlier, there are several good threads on this subject.  In this one (http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=2805.0) I detailed how I did my system.

The source for the commercial sewn blanket is:  http://www.atpwrap.com/html/motorcoach.html

The EHP material mentioned above is absolutely great (I used to be a distributor, but finally figured out it was better to have customers buy directly from them since the wet blanket kits had a shelf life).  They have two products that can be used.  The wet blanket material can be formed much like making a cast for a broken leg.  The wet blanket material is used to form around the manifolds. The other material is sheet material about 1/8 thick that can be wrapped the exhaust pipe.  Both of those materials are a bit fragile.  I wrapped them with HIGH TEMPERATURE aluminum tape (see photo at:  http://www.rvsafetysystems.com/busproject2.htm)

When I installed the Series 60, I used the commercial blanket for the manifold and turbo.  I then used the EHP/foil for the first few feet of the exhaust pipe.  I then purchased exhaust wrap tape (http://www.thermotec.com/product_detail.php?prd_id=3) to put on the rest of the exhaust pipe (have not installed yet).

As has been mentioned several times, there are several reasons to insulate the exhaust:  possible increase in HP, reduced heat in the engine compartment/bedroom, and safety (virtually eliminates high temperature source if you have a combustible fluid leak).

Jim
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Jim Shepherd
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’85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
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Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/
skipn
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« Reply #23 on: February 01, 2008, 07:01:18 AM »

 Thanks Jim(rv_safetyman)

    I went out to the site you mentioned low and behold in the lower left right hand corner
 is an ATP logo   and the T really can look like an I..........Something when I look at the
 tag could be a stylized T............The wraps on the web pages look just like I have

   So now I can get a better one for my turbo....the one that is there just looks like
 a flap of material.

 Thanks
   Skip
« Last Edit: February 01, 2008, 07:03:58 AM by skipn » Logged
Tom Y
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« Reply #24 on: February 01, 2008, 09:22:30 AM »

The materal I bought was from Coverflex  866-268-3735 on the web also. I talked to Norberto,I did the turbo and pipe to the floor. Later as an after though I covered the top of the manifold. Norberto was good to work with and did lower a price when I talked to him. It is wrapped in a stainless mesh and wired on with stainless wire.  Tom Y
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Tom Yaegle
skipn
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« Reply #25 on: February 01, 2008, 09:44:36 AM »

Tom,

   Nice job......

  From your pictures I see 2 sending units one on the turbo and one on the intake housing.
  Boost and temp?

   Exactly which L10 are you running.....L10 LTA10 or LTA10E or maybe oh could it be m11 select?
  IT just looks different than  most of the plain L10's I'm used to...Smiley

Thanks
 Skip
« Last Edit: February 01, 2008, 09:58:52 AM by skipn » Logged
Ray D
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« Reply #26 on: February 01, 2008, 11:38:18 AM »

Prices, what about prices, I would really like to know.

Ray D
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Tom Y
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« Reply #27 on: February 01, 2008, 03:24:14 PM »

Skip, Nothing on the turbo. Maybe the oil line you see? The other is aair intake senser. The engine is a L10E Celect.

Ray, I paid 142.10 to my door and another 23.00 for the top of the manifold. Covered the turbo, an elbow and about 16-18 inches of pipe down to the floor. I also did the manifold on my gen and the pipe going down. That cost 83.00 plus shipping
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Tom Yaegle
Ray D
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« Reply #28 on: February 01, 2008, 05:13:47 PM »

Thanks Tom,

I was expecting more, sounds like good money spent.

Ray D
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gus
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« Reply #29 on: February 01, 2008, 07:04:34 PM »

I have to disagree with Jerry on insulating the exhaust, turbo or not.

My theory, subject to correctiion, is that an insulated exhaust system blows heat out the exhaust faster than an uninsulated one thus keeping the engine space cooler.

The hotter exhaust gases will exit the exhaust system much faster with insulation and decrease back pressure, not increase it.

Many turbos get red hot, you really don't want anything that hot uninsulated inside the engine compartment.

The EHP wet blanket will handle anything you will ever find on an exhaust system. I am a believer in that stuff.
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
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