Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
October 22, 2014, 06:47:59 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: If you had an Online Subscription: It arrives at least two weeks before the First Class printed magazine.
   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: 1 2 [All]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Heat & AC Choice and Why?  (Read 4452 times)
JackConrad
Orange Blossom Special II
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4447


73' MC-8 8V71/HT740 Southwest Florida


WWW
« on: February 01, 2008, 07:39:30 AM »

OK, I am working on another project for the magazine. Here is the Question:  What Did You Use For Your Heat & AC and Why?

  I will start with my answer. We used a basement AC because there is less fan noise and a smoother roofline. Our original plan for heat was a compass & thermometer (When the thermometer said 50 degrees, we would look at the compass and head south) This was supplemented by a small electric "cube" heater and an electric toe kick unit. We recently installed a ProHeat diesel fired boiler since we now occasionally spending time in cooler temperatures. After talking too several fellow busnuts with diesel fired boiler and some with LP furnaces, we felt the diesel fired boiler was a better choice and an easier installation is our already finished interior. (Easier to run length of 3/4' hose than a 4" duct)
  Remember, there are no wrong answers, everyone's situation is different and what works for you may not work for someone else. I am just interested in what works for you.  Jack
Logged

Growing Older Is Mandatory, Growing Up Is Optional
Arcadia, Florida, When we are home
http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/OBS-JC/
H3Jim
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1398


1995 Prevost H3-41, series 60, B500 Allison




Ignore
« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2008, 08:56:25 AM »

Heat - Diesel fired heater and toe kicks.  I used because
1. The bus came with an Espar 40k BTU aux heater that could be modified for my uses
2. Many satisfied people with this system, purported to be "the Best"
3. It was a way to heat my domestic hot water too.
4. Single fuel system
5. Space efficient

AC choice - 3 Roof airs
1. Easy to install and service
2. My roofline and awnings hide them from the ground
3. I didn't feel I had the technical knowledge to install splits or basement air.
4. Low profile are not higher than other things on the roof
5. I kept bay space for toys
6. noisier than I had anticipated or hoped

ps I kept bus heat and air and am very pleased with that decision.
Logged

Jim Stewart
El Cajon, Ca.  (San Diego area)

Travel is more than the seeing of sights, it is a change that goes on, deep  and permanent, in the ideas of living.
Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4874


Nick & Michelle Badame


WWW
« Reply #2 on: February 01, 2008, 10:05:56 AM »

Hi Jack,

HVAC- I choose 2 stacked 15,000 btu Basement Heat Pumps ducted to overhead outlets. Why? Whisper Quiet System, No Worts on the Roof, and it's

a system that is designed for Over the Road use.

Redundent Heating to the Heat Pumps- I have a Proheat X-45 piped to a Hydronic Coil in the return air of the Heat Pumps. Why? because Heat Pumps

loose their heating ability below 35 deg's, Extra capacity if I want, I can heat the bus on diesel or electric if I choose, and have a choice weather I'm in

a park with paid electric, or at my home where I pay for electric.

OTR HVAC- Factory system. Why? Because it does the job in any climate.

What would I do differently next time? Install a loop of radiant heat under my Marble Kit and Bath Floors. "coooold feet in the winter" Shocked

Hope this helps
Nick-
« Last Edit: February 01, 2008, 11:37:36 AM by Nick Badame Refrig. Co. » Logged

Whatever it takes!-GITIT DONE! 
Commercial Refrigeration- Ice machines- Heating & Air/ Atlantic Custom Coach Inc.
Master Mason- Cannon Lodge #104
https://www.facebook.com/atlanticcustomcoach
www.atlanticcustomcoach.com
gumpy
Some Assembly Required
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3262


Slightly modified 1982 MC9


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2008, 04:22:53 PM »

Basement air because I didn't like the looks of rooftop air units and wanted less noise.

Aquahot diesel fired heating system with hydronic radiant heat installed in the floor and walls. Why? Because everyone
said it wouldn't work in a bus Smiley

Logged

Craig Shepard
Located in Minnesquito

http://bus.gumpydog.com - "Some Assembly Required"
TomC
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6852





Ignore
« Reply #4 on: February 01, 2008, 07:20:30 PM »

Since I have a transit, my bus needs are a little bit different.  First I got rid of the under floor central heating system (no A/C since it was from Portland), pressure tested the big heating heat exchanger and then mounted it in the hallway on the floor with two 14" 12v radiator fans to push the air into the hallway.  It is so powerful, when I hear it come on from the driver's seat, I can count to 10 and feel heat.  Kept the original front defroster system.
For parked heat I have a 35,000btu propane furnace mounted next to my stove (stove and furnace are the only propane items on the bus with the tank directly chassis mounted below for the shortest gas lines possible [don't like propane]).  Also have heating strips in the three roof airs and a electric wall heater in the bathroom. Very pleased with the system-will probably use the same on my next RV.

My only A/C is three Coleman 13,500btu roof airs.  Driving in 107 degree weather, only ran the front two and was comfortable.  A 12v dash mounted fan blowing right on me made a big difference.  They work well, but would use Duotherm next time since the Coleman's only have a two speed fan-like medium and high- and the Duotherm has the extra third speed for a quiet low speed.  I think also next time I would eliminate the third A/C over the bed in place for a 14,000btu split CruiseAir that would be 7,000btu in the bedroom and 7,000btu in the living room for after dark use and quiet night time use.

After pricing the AquaHot and the fact that I live in Los Angeles, I felt I didn't need the tremendous heating capability of 80,000btu of the AquaHot (plus having 2" of sprayed on insulation really helps).  I have been using the bus on the average of 5 trips a year since it was done in 2000 and have yet to have any trouble with any of my appliances.  The only thing I have had to overhaul is the ball valve on the toilet-otherwise every thing has been 100% reliable.  I know those with AquaHots can't say that.  Good Luck, TomC
Logged

Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
NewbeeMC9
NewbeeMC9
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1167


1981 MC9 8V71, HT 740




Ignore
« Reply #5 on: February 01, 2008, 08:50:50 PM »

Two Coleman Roof airs, I belive they are 13500 BTU,
have heat strips that dont seem to do much and
are in the emergency hatch holes,  would rather have the hatches
two speed fans are loud but was glad to have them last summer at  the beach

Why? because they were there when i bought it.


Also have have two electric radiaters to plug in.

just bought a pro heat to try to set up and use for hot water.
« Last Edit: February 15, 2008, 03:44:59 AM by NewbeeMC9 » Logged

It's all fun and games til someone gets hurt. Wink
dparker
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 46


mc 7 in progress


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #6 on: February 01, 2008, 09:18:07 PM »

First I was new to this whole bus conversion thing, and unfortunately I did not know about this site, until after i converted.

I like the basement air idea. we are in the fiber optic business and use the rooftops for our splicing trailers, in using the rooftops (now in fairness we use the cheapest ones and they are not ducted thru the roof) i knew that would be loud and I also knew that do a correct job for the south in summertime (100+) heat in a metal bus that I would need 5 tons of air = 5 rooftops and even thought a lot of the high dollar conversions go this route, and you would have automatic redundancy, even if one of 5 was down you most likely would still be pretty comfortable -- i still wanted to do the basement air ...

The old bus that I was converting (a mc7 mci) I noted that existing  system was designed at 7 tons, that the coils were over sized even for this rating, they have a system to distribute the refrigerant across the entire coils with expansions valves (by better distributing the refrigerant the system can except more heat and reduce the tendency to freeze up while operating at a lower temp) ... the old system was r12 so I converted the expansions valves to r22 (the old otr system was not working -- even thought the compressor was a rebuild the PO complained the otr would not keep up) added a 5 ton copland scroll compressor (I placed this unit in the condenser box) converted both the air handling fan and the condenser  fan to 240vac added the controls and plumbed in the compressor.  I had to change both expansion valves (on the main evaporator for the coach and the valve on the small evaporator for the drive air) ... I then ducted the air along both sides of the coach in the conversion and have my basement air -- i used the old floor depression as a return -- the unit gets it return air from the front of the bus and return under the bed in back -- i kept the old filter system in the bus and added a modern filter past the original filter (wire mesh)

works great -- but you have to run the genset anytime you want heat or air -- for the heat I did not remove the heater core for the main coach or the driver -- but i have not needed them - i added a small heat strip in the system and main thermostat uses that for heat control.  I have contemplated a 24volt - 240vac inverter in that way you could heat or circulate air with out have the genset on line -- but i do not mind running genset all the time -- when you are burning ~ 10 gals an hour with the coach on the road -- was is another 1/2 gal to make everything simple  -- i run most everything on 120 vac

feel free to contact me if you have additional questions --

The drawbacks are that on the exterior when the condenser motor comes in it is pretty loud on the exterior -- on the next bus I will do a varable drive for this motor and control the speed of this fan based on the heat pressue and exterior temp ... and do a variable on the interior air handling as well

hope this helps.
Logged

1972 MC7

Parker Systems, LLC
800 8 PARKER
donnreeves
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 72





Ignore
« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2008, 05:55:03 AM »

Two ducted 13,500btu roof airs. Ducted because I can put the air where I want it. We have vents over the front seats that keep us cool in the hotest weather. Usually run just the front air off the inverter while on the road.We run the front air at night, to keep down the noise in the bed room.I put a butterfly valve in the duct to isolate front and rear, but usually just keave it open.
 Hydronic heat fired by a Pro-Heat with baseboards and three kick heaters. Also provides heat for domestic hot water and engine pre-heat.
 My first choise would have been a system like Nick's, but there wasn't room in my RTS. All in all both systems work great.
Logged
Jerry32
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 726





Ignore
« Reply #8 on: February 02, 2008, 07:09:30 AM »

I used a mini split heat pump and supliment with electric heaters. electricity is cheaper than fuel and I rarely boon dock. Jerry
Logged

1988 MCI 102A3 8V92TA 740
tekebird
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2263





Ignore
« Reply #9 on: February 02, 2008, 07:15:30 AM »

don;t forget to mention the Diesel fired Forced hot air units by webasto and espar.

best bang for the buck IMHO, size of a shoebox and one will keep a 35 foot coach toasty down to just below freezing while using little fuel, no noticiable electric and will suck the humidity oout of the air.

no plumbing to worry about in your layout. or leaks to be concerned with.  no electric pumps to have to run, no fans at each in coach unit to power.

available in 12 and 24v
Logged
luvrbus
Guest

« Reply #10 on: February 02, 2008, 08:06:36 AM »

Jack, for air I choose the Cruiseair split system for space and to keep the top of my bus clean 2 units are installed in the spare tire bay with one evaporator in the drivers and living room area another evaporator in the kitchen with a vent to the bath the other unit is installed at the back with two small evaporators for the bedroom. I love the variable speed fans 0 to high for the night time sleep.I would like to upgrade to touch pads controls but the price Nick said it would cost I will be turning knobs for a while


For heating i choose the Primus system over the diesel fired systems because of the smell and noise, it has 2 propane boilers and 1 electric boiler to take advantage of the electric when parked.I have 76 lf of radiant heat with 3 kick heaters on this system (which I never use)my bays are heated, the system is tied into my defroster in the drivers area to keep the windshield frost free when parked with a thermostat control for a kick heater in the drivers area if needed plus the Primus under floor heat.The only draw back is having two fuel sources but it uses so little propane with todays diesel prices I am glad to have it 
« Last Edit: February 02, 2008, 04:56:46 PM by luvrbus » Logged
Reddog
1990 Thomas "Hormone Derange" Gunnison, Colorado
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 119


1990 Thomas Transitliner, 8.3 Cummins/Allison Auto


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #11 on: February 02, 2008, 08:34:26 AM »

A/C: one rooftop 15KBTU Coleman. It's usually cool here and we don't need alot of A/C. We have lots of windows for fresh air cooling and one fantastic fan.
Heat: Now this is where I went a little overboard, it gets chilly here. Thomas was a ski area bus, so it came with lots of heat. Big bus heat up front and two dual fan underseat units. Kept all of that, one underseat unit under the RF couch with toe kick height vent and one under the rear bed. System also has Espar boiler. Works great for stationary heat, pre-heating the engine for cold starts and heating domestic water thru heat exchange coil in water heater. Added 35K BTU propane heat in center of the bus for that extra measure. Also no diesel exhaust if I'm around other folks. Should have ducted it front and rear, but did install it so it gets make up air from the front and blows out in the middle. 110 ac ceramic block to blow in the bath for extra comfort.
Doug Engel, Gunison, CO
Logged

"If people don't stare and point as you drive by, keep working."
oldmansax
Tom & Phyllis
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 999


'82 Bluebird Wanderlodge PT40




Ignore
« Reply #12 on: February 02, 2008, 08:50:18 AM »

We have two Duo-therm roof airs, a Suburban 35K furnace and an Olympian catalytic auxiliary heater because thats what the PO had in the bus when we bought it.  We boon dock a lot so we can run the heat off the batteries. I don't know what I would put in if I did the coach myself but I would lean toward radiant in the floor. I would definitely leave OTR heat & air in the bus. Unfortunately, ours was already removed before we bought it.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2008, 06:04:29 AM by oldmansax » Logged

'82 BlueBird WanderLodge PT40 being rebuilt
Delaware

DON'T STEAL! The government hates competition!
belfert
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5447




Ignore
« Reply #13 on: February 02, 2008, 05:58:18 PM »

I choose rooftops for my A/C as I couldn't afford the the bay space for basement air nor do I really have space in my design for the ductwork.

I originally planned on a propane furnace, but I couldn't come up with a good place to mount the furnace and get the exhaust to not hit something.  I also didn't have much room for heat ductwork.  I will be installing a Proheat system for heat and hot water.

My OTR heat and A/C is gone.  The A/C didn't work and it required more work than I wanted to spend money on.  The heat was supplied by baseboard radiators and they would have been in the way so I removed them.  The A/C ductwork was part of the overhead luggage racks so I would have had to come up with new ductwork if I had kept the A/C.  The driver's heat and defrost still work.  The defrost will actually warm the front living area on a 40 to 50 degree day.
Logged

Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
Dreamscape
Guest

« Reply #14 on: February 03, 2008, 03:07:09 AM »

Nick,

How did you run your exhaust on you Proheat? Is it OK to run an elbow just under the bay floor and out to the side? Could not quite tell from your Picture. I'm worried about the pipe being too low and getting knocked off or bent. I was considering putting my Proheat in the second bay, passenger side in front of our hot water heater. That's about the only room I have left.

Thanks,

Paul
Logged
JackConrad
Orange Blossom Special II
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4447


73' MC-8 8V71/HT740 Southwest Florida


WWW
« Reply #15 on: February 03, 2008, 04:43:11 AM »

Paul,
   We installed our ProHeat in the middle bay on the driver's side. It is just inside the door and against the front bulkhead of this compartment. I used the 90 degree sweep that came with the used ProHeat we purchased from Nimco. I added a short length of exhaust tubing to extend the exhaust a couple inches past the edge of the bus.
   So far, we have had no problems with the exhaust hitting on anything. This includes several trips through cow pastures at Bluegrass Festivals. Jack
« Last Edit: February 03, 2008, 06:21:08 AM by JackConrad » Logged

Growing Older Is Mandatory, Growing Up Is Optional
Arcadia, Florida, When we are home
http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/OBS-JC/
rv_safetyman
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2199


Jim Shepherd


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #16 on: February 03, 2008, 07:14:13 AM »

Hi Jack.  I just replied to the over-the-road AC thread and will post that information again later in this post.

We installed three Carrier roof air (cost/ease of installation and replacement/lack of bay space).  They are noisy, but we can manage that a bit by running the ones  more remote from where we are located.  I have thought a lot about how I would do it if we did another bus (no way Shocked) and I would do the same thing, except I would use the new low profile units (not available when we installed ours).

For heat I bit the bullet and bought an AquaHot.  I have never regretted that decision.  It is absolutely a great system.  It was a relatively easy installation.  The heat exchangers produce instant heat and do not dry out the air like forced air systems.  Provides great domestic hot water supply and can preheat the engine.  Lots of dollars, but we spend more time than we would like in cool/cold conditions.

Now for the dash air:

I installed a Red Dot 5045 and it is a great unit.  It is rated at 46K BTU heating and 33K cooling.  Think about it, that is more than two roof airs!

It fit very nicely under my new dash.  I have attached a photo that sort of shows the installation.

The unit has a cable controlled flapper that diverts the air flow from the front four fully adjustable outlets to the back opening.  On the back I made a plate with 4 outlets that connect to the defroster outlet hoses.

I plumbed the heater to my AquaHot and that really makes a really nice setup.  This morning is was a bit cool, so I fired up the Red Dot and had great heat flowing towards the passenger seat where I was sitting.  I can defrost the windows without even starting the engine!  The heat going down the road has been sufficient for any condition we have encountered (have been in Zero degree weather) while going down the road

The AC is absolutely great and can handle most any condition we have encountered except heading west in the late afternoon on a hot day and even then it makes the drive bearable.  My bus is not well insulated and still has some air leaks that I am working on.

Jim
Logged

Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
’85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/
Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4874


Nick & Michelle Badame


WWW
« Reply #17 on: February 03, 2008, 08:21:14 AM »

Nick,

How did you run your exhaust on you Proheat? Is it OK to run an elbow just under the bay floor and out to the side? Could not quite tell from your Picture. I'm worried about the pipe being too low and getting knocked off or bent. I was considering putting my Proheat in the second bay, passenger side in front of our hot water heater. That's about the only room I have left.

Thanks,

Paul

Hi Paul,

Yes, it exhausts out the bottom like Jacks but, I made it removeable. You can see in my pic that it is laying in front of my Proheat.
Nick-
Logged

Whatever it takes!-GITIT DONE! 
Commercial Refrigeration- Ice machines- Heating & Air/ Atlantic Custom Coach Inc.
Master Mason- Cannon Lodge #104
https://www.facebook.com/atlanticcustomcoach
www.atlanticcustomcoach.com
luvrbus
Guest

« Reply #18 on: February 03, 2008, 08:28:42 AM »

remember Paul the unit exhausts at around 600 degrees so be safe 
Logged
Dreamscape
Guest

« Reply #19 on: February 03, 2008, 08:54:56 AM »

Hi Clifford,

I know it's gets pretty hot, that's why I'm concerned about the exhaust location. I was also worried about using an elbow, thinking of any restrictions that might hinder proper exhaust flow. Thanks for the concern.

Nick,

Thanks, that's what I thought, wasn't sure.

Jack,

Thanks for your description. I just don't want to knock something off. So far I haven't been in any cow pastures, just darn steel fence posts seem to not want to budge much.

Paul
Logged
Len Silva
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4086


Angle Parked in a Parallel Universe


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #20 on: February 04, 2008, 09:03:13 AM »

I had a basement air unit in my 4104 and now have two rooftops in my MH.  Can't tell you how much I hate them. Noisey, can't sleep with ther bedroom unit on and have to run the front with a box fan to cool the bedroom.  That eliminates closing off the bedroom for privacy if we have guests.  Also have condensate drips if the humidity is high.

Len
Logged


Hand Made Gifts

Ignorance is only bliss to the ignorant.
Lin
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4570

1965 MC-5a




Ignore
« Reply #21 on: February 07, 2008, 08:16:30 PM »

I agree with the complaint about roof top unit noise.  On one of my past motorhomes, I installed a line voltage thermostat so the A/C would only come on when cooling was required.  It seems that, particularly in the bedroom, it would be running just the fan most of the time.
Logged

You don't have to believe everything you think.
PP
Will & Wife
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1051



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #22 on: February 09, 2008, 08:08:10 PM »

We have 2 basement AC units (1-front and 1-rear). Thermostatically controlled fan over bed keeps the rear relatively comfortable in most climes at night without a lot of noise. Although we have 2 toe kick heaters, the wife hates them because they make too much noise (BUZZZZZZ) We Have 3 CAT Platinum wall mount heaters that run on 12V+propane-they're quiet, vented outside (No excessive moisture) and they put out a lot of heat on relatively little fuel. Love them. With one in the bedroom, one in the bathroom, and one in the kitchen counter facing into the lounge, they really keep it toasty in here at any temp.
Didn't want the warts on the roof but gave in for the satellite, LOL Wife's got to have her TV, don't ya know.
Logged

Jerry Liebler
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1320




Ignore
« Reply #23 on: February 10, 2008, 04:15:55 PM »

Jack,
     How will I answer?  "What Did You Use For Your Heat & AC and Why?"  The what portion is easier than the why.  My heat is from a Webasto, diesel  coolant heater and 6 fan coil heat exchangers.  And supplemented in moderate cold by an 18,000 BTU/h heat pump of the ductless minisplit variety.  My air conditioning is primarily the ductless mini-split but suplemented by a 9,000 BTU/h window unit mounted through my rear cap.   The whys for the heating system  choice of the Webasto include: the ease of engine preheating, engine heat use while driving and common fuel with the bus.  The choice of the heat pump heat is related to my desire to never winterise and keep the bus above freezing all winter, in Kentucky, using relatively economical electric power.  While sitting plugged in during the winter the  Webasto serves as back up heat if it gets really cold.  The air conditioning choices were made to avoid raising the height of my bus above what could fit into my barn's doors  11'9".  A second goal in coosing my AC was energy efficiency.  I wanted to be able to be comfortable inside while it is 90+ outside and do it on 15 amps or less.  The 18,000 BTU/H mini-split has worked out really well in this regard.  It cools the inside to 70 sitting in the sun with outside temperature of 95 and does it on under 14 amps of 120 volt power.
Since the window unit in the rear uses only 820 watts and it easily cools the bedroom we are able to sleep in comfort even on battery power.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
Logged
Paul
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 136


Will it ever be done?


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #24 on: February 13, 2008, 08:30:03 PM »


The AC is two Carrier 15.000BTU roof top, ducted, low profile units to save bay space and labor.
The sticker on dash states that the bus is -------------------------------11’ 5”.
10” roof raise =   ----------------------------------------------------------- 12’ 3”   
Remove roof hatch subtract 2.5”   --------------------------------------- 12’ ½”   
Carrier low profile is 7.5” high   ------------------------------------------12’ 8”

With a level on top of roof AC and Bus aired up, I get a Measurement of 12’ 7’ to ground.   

I drop the Ceiling down 7” this gives us 6” of space above the ceiling in center of bus to install AC duct.  The 6” changes to 4” in center with 2” of spray foam over roof ribs
.
I will have a Ceiling height in side of bus of 6’ 8” after installing 1 ½ Dow Blueguard Styrofoam Insulation on floor and Ύ plywood over insulation.

If I had, it to do over again the roof raise would be 12” and still drop the ceiling down 7” in the center. This would be a total height of 12’ 10” the same as an 8” raise with regular roof top Air conditioners units.

For heat, we have a Hydro-Hot unit. The Pex tubing is smaller then air ducts to save space in bus and easy insulation.  In the old bus air duct we installed three 1 ½ conduits, two 1”and two Ύ” The old air duct is the place I understand most people run the new ducts for heat.

Our Hydro-Hot is a new type that requires an 18” x 15” opening in the floor. Were we are installing the unit in the back/water bay I had to cut rib under the floor of the bay for the opening. Fabricated an 18” x 15” frame out of 1 ½” square tubing to replace the rib removed. There is a 27 Ό” x 18 Ό” tray that sits on the floor with a flange opening 18”x15” down threw bay floor new opening. I fabricated a stainless steel collar/flange to install from the bottom up. The bay floor has 1 ½ Dow Blueguard Styrofoam Insulation and Ύ” plywood. The tray flange was not long enough to go all way through the Floor. The tray/flange and Collar/Flange telescope to fit the opening. The Air intake and exhaust are in this opening. The Hydro-Hot unit fits in the tray.
   
I installed two conduits to push my Ύ” heater hose threw for engine preheating. Very EZ to push will be great for replacing hose.  The hoses are attached to valves on the engine and turn off.  Have tap into the fuel tank, run 3/8” OD cooper tubing supply, and return to unit.

Paul
www.incredibus.com
Logged

Paul
http://www.incredibus.com
1988 MCI 102A3 /8V92 /740 /10" Roof Raise
Songman
Guest

« Reply #25 on: February 25, 2008, 09:42:02 PM »

I've not done mine yet but have been collecting parts. I have a Hurricane 61k btu hydronic heating system and plan to install a central air setup in the basement. Don't know which one yet. The reason for the basement air is because I want to have a deck on the roof and want to keep it cleaner up there. I figure I have to have vents, sat dish, and hopefully solar panels so that will fill up any roof that the deck don't cover. the Hurricane I got because it is an all-in-one unit that takes the place of a lot of other little units.
Logged
Pages: 1 2 [All]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!