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Author Topic: Wall sheathing, choice of material?  (Read 2731 times)
Paladin
Dave Knight
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« on: February 09, 2008, 12:01:44 PM »

I'm talking the inside of the exterior walls, around the windows etc.
I am thinking of loading up on some supplies and was thinking 3/8" plywood? What do you guys use, any suggestions and tips for doing these walls?


-Dave
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'75 MC-8   'Event Horizon'
8V71  HT740
Salt Lake City, Utah

"Have bus will travel read the card of the man, a Knight without armor in a savage land...."
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« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2008, 12:09:16 PM »

I used 1/4" luon to complete what the po had started.   I plan to anchor things to the bus frame underneath.
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Glenn Williams
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1968 MCI 7 Ser. No. 7476 Unit No. 10056
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« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2008, 12:16:37 PM »

I used 3/8" plywood. Easy to work with. Thick enough that's it's stable and can provide some support to other walls, cabinets, etc.
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Craig Shepard
Located in Minnesquito

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Dave Knight
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« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2008, 12:19:58 PM »

That was my thinking as well.


-Dave
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'75 MC-8   'Event Horizon'
8V71  HT740
Salt Lake City, Utah

"Have bus will travel read the card of the man, a Knight without armor in a savage land...."
FloridaCliff
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« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2008, 12:29:02 PM »

I used the 15/32 (1/2") sanded plywood..

It is attached over over 1X4's, spaced at 1'  and that run horizontal on the wall with insulation between.

I ran the 1X's closer near the ceiling where I may attach cabinets, giving me an actual 3/4 attachment point.

So far I am pleased with no regrets.

The 15/32 will give you a nice solid surface to attach to.

Cliff

(Modified the plywood size)





« Last Edit: February 09, 2008, 12:50:01 PM by FloridaCliff » Logged

1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

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Marcus
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« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2008, 12:37:06 PM »

Dave, I used 1/2 " sanded plywood which doesn't cost much more than 3/8" and is stronger if you want to hang something on the wall. It was nice to attach cabinets to in the kitchen. It makes a nice rigid wall. Marc
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FloridaCliff
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« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2008, 12:52:57 PM »

Marcus,

Ya made me think about it.

Went out and measured.

I used the sanded 1/2 also.

I wanted a smooth surface to attach my unknown covering too!

Cliff
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1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

"There are basically two types of people. People who accomplish things, and people who claim to have accomplished things. The first group is less crowded."
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belfert
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« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2008, 12:54:26 PM »

I used 3/8" plywood on the inside of the sidewalls.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2008, 04:18:48 PM »

Hi Dave,

I used 1/4" in my bath interior wall and I wished I used 3/8".

Where I used 3/8" on the window walls, every seam has held up very well but, the 1/4" seams are showing signs of movement.

Good Luck
Nick-
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cody
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« Reply #9 on: February 09, 2008, 04:49:19 PM »

Guess I'm the odd one, I used all 3/4inch plywood for the walls and dressed them with 1/4 prefinished paneling in a white print. The plywood is screwed to the metal framework with 1/8th inch felt between the metal and the plywood to eliminate squeaks on the road if it ever moved.  Each hole for the screws was predrilled and metal framework was tapped for the screw and the screw was locked in place with epoxy so it wouldn't back out over time, my wife thinks it's over kill but I told her everyone does it that way lol. I'm not going to mention foam filling the hollow metal bracing for insulation and sound transference tho lol.
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
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« Reply #10 on: February 09, 2008, 05:49:37 PM »

Guess I'm the odd one, I used all 3/4inch plywood for the walls and dressed them with 1/4 prefinished paneling in a white print. The plywood is screwed to the metal framework with 1/8th inch felt between the metal and the plywood to eliminate squeaks on the road if it ever moved.  Each hole for the screws was predrilled and metal framework was tapped for the screw and the screw was locked in place with epoxy so it wouldn't back out over time, my wife thinks it's over kill but I told her everyone does it that way lol. I'm not going to mention foam filling the hollow metal bracing for insulation and sound transference tho lol.

Cody,
Did you make Libby run all thoose screws in??  lol
Nick-
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FloridaCliff
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« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2008, 06:59:40 PM »

While were talking about walls!

Nick turned me on to the idea of using body filler on the joints, worked perfect.  Wink

Cliff
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1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

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« Reply #12 on: February 09, 2008, 07:00:52 PM »

   Half inch 5'x5' baltic birch plywood for me. Very high quality strong stuff and cheep. I was getting it for $20 a sheet 4 years ago. Don't know what it is now. Jim
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David Anderson
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« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2008, 07:55:35 PM »

I used 1/2" BC plywood.  I also put 15lb felt behind it as to minimize any humid air in the coach from condensing on cold bus framing and avoid any squeaking while traveling.  7 years now and has worked very well.

David
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Paladin
Dave Knight
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« Reply #14 on: February 09, 2008, 10:00:18 PM »

While were talking about walls!

Nick turned me on to the idea of using body filler on the joints, worked perfect.  Wink

Cliff


I was thinking of filler for the joints but kind of thought it might crack over time.  Huh
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'75 MC-8   'Event Horizon'
8V71  HT740
Salt Lake City, Utah

"Have bus will travel read the card of the man, a Knight without armor in a savage land...."
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