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Author Topic: 4104 Wet Tank Drain  (Read 3312 times)
akbusguy2000
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« Reply #15 on: June 11, 2006, 12:12:17 PM »

Gus, the valve you see in the pics came from my 4106.  It worked just fine, but it was an awful inconvenience to use.  I ended up taking it out with a 3/4 drive socket and 24" break-over bar.  Yes I had to bush it out for the laniard to fit as it was 3/4 npt as I recall.  By the way I did this with both the wet and dry tanks.  The laniards have about a 5' cable pull so I don't even have to look under the coach to use them.  By the way, the laniards are cheap - 10 bucks or so each.

I would suggest you continue trying to remove your wet tank train valve. Then you can check it out and decide what to do next.  Have you tried opening the valve with the tank full (pressurized)?  That might blow it out and clean the drain opening.

good luck


tg
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gus
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« Reply #16 on: June 11, 2006, 01:18:55 PM »

tg,

I'm surprised that the 4106 is so different, my valve is easily reached by just bending over a bit. Probably the difference is caused by the different engine layouts since mine is a 671. I love the way this valve is constructed, real classy design and workmanship and made of brass. If mine leaks after I get it cleaned out can I talk you out of your old one?

The front dry tank already has a petcock valve but is impossible to reach so the lanyard type makes a lot of sense there. The Aux sir tank is so easy to reach but that is the end of the line, water needs to come out long before that.

I tried opening the valve with the tank fully pressurized but it made no difference. The crud in the bottom is probably fossilized!

Again, I can't thank you and the other guys enough for your help.
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
gus
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« Reply #17 on: June 14, 2006, 05:54:35 PM »

Glenn MC9 and akbusguy,

I finally got the drain valve out with a big  pipe wrench and a cheater pipe over it. I didn't have a 3/4" drive socket to fit, it is a 1 3/4" nut and I have the sizes below and above it!!

Much to my surprise nothing came out. I scooped out some oily gunk and cleaned it with solvent but still didn't get much out. It was enough to plug the valve though. There wasn't one drop of water??

I think I'm going to put it back in because it is right behind the rear wheel and is not a good place to have anything sticking out very far. I made a tool to turn it and it isn't hard to reach.

If it turns out to be a pain I'll go to the ball valve, sounds like a good idea. I don't think this is a good place for a lanyard valve but am going to put one on the front tank.

Again, thanks to all the help with this job. Now on to the main air check valve which is still leaking too much.
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
gus
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« Reply #18 on: June 15, 2006, 09:51:40 PM »

Well, I got a big surprise today after reinstalling the wet tank drain valve and airing up the bus. The wet tank isn't even in the system!! It has been bypassed by a dual connection manifold on the in and out air lines to the wet tank. The manifold is right against the tank so it looked like it was part of the tank.

No wonder there was nothing in the tank.

Needless to say this was a bit unsettling since it cuts my air supply in half. Funny that I've never had any problems with low air but now I know why the compressor runs so much!!

I have the tank out for testing and it is going right back into the system as soon as possible.

My guess is that it was bypassed because of a leak at the drain valve or the pressure relief valve on the top.
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
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