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Author Topic: Piney Fresh Pottie - and other tips welcome  (Read 2358 times)
TexasBorderDude
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« on: March 21, 2008, 12:13:47 PM »

I read somewhere that Pine-Sol in the potty kept the odor down.  Well I just filled a spray bottle with Pine-Sol and keep it handy.  When its "Bombs-away" I reach for the spray bottle, give 4 or 5 sprays and all's set.  Makes my 2 gal bottle of Pine-Sol last f-o-r-e-v-e-r!!

Got any pottie tips?

dg
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« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2008, 12:33:36 PM »

Use your neighbor's coach! Cheesy
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« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2008, 01:11:16 PM »

On a cold, rainy night, in a steel tent with no potty, don't let your wife pee in the half full popcorn bowl. (Popcorn isent an effective absorbent  and what's more.....it's gross. Angry)
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« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2008, 01:13:39 PM »

there are any number of Chemicals that you put down the chute with a gallon or two of water that will give you no oder at all.  some have perfumy scents.....all personalo preference.

the better of these chems also end up liquifing everything so all you dump is fluid....no visible solids
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« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2008, 01:37:34 PM »

The best defense is a good offense.......... Make sure your your vent pipe is large enough to vent the gasses.

Another thing you can do is add some Ridex or another brand of enzyme.

We've tried a whole bunch of those purportedly wonderful chemicals. None of them did S%^t. The smell was perfumed, but it was still there.

We've learned that pooop doesn't smell like chicken no matter what you do to it. It smell likes pooop, The best enzyme in the world is to let doo-doo work, let the brown trout swim around in the tank and if really needed, drive around and get the mixin's all worked up.

Yeah there are lot's of perfumey additives at Wally World or Camping World, but all you accomplish is making it smell like perfumed poooop.

At this moment we have a problem with our vent and when it warms up, I will fix it, I promise, I really do! In the meantime, the only time we get any smell at all is when we go down the road.. the vent is acting as a pitot valve and allows the gasses back inside. When my vent is working correctly, there is no smell.

Doug brings up a good point, for many of the charter and revenue bus companies, they need to have the perfume smell. Passengers will not ride on a bus that smells like doody. The holding tanks on an inservice bus are a lot smaller and the vent is MUCH smaller than on a conversion bus. (The vent on a 102A3 is only 1/2").
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« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2008, 04:18:44 PM »

next time I am to one of the buses I will check and see what I use......

I've tried many of the commercial Charter bus brands however most are very strong perfumed and lack enzimes.

Off hand I think mine might be enviro chem......no real noticable scent.....does a great job....but we have good venting......even on the 04 which was bottom vented never had any tank smell
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« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2008, 05:55:33 PM »

Over the years I have experimented with many things. One was the "Little Stinker" power vent. The moisture quickly killed the motor.  I've tried commercial products, home brews. One was yeast, plain old yeast like you buy for baking. I used that till I found out the yeast does not activate till 170 degrees.
 I eventually by accident found a leak in my vent system. Remember that Dallas? That was the cause of all my prolems. Since that time I have discovered that the only time I had a problem was when it was windy. I installed a 360 degree aerodynamic sanitation vent, problem solved. Now the only time I notice anythng is when flushing the toilet. The pipe is a place for the gas to collect, just a bit, not really a problem but at times noticeable. In hindsight I would plumb a tee into the system as close to the toilet as possible and vent from there.
 I no longer use chemicals of any kind. Mother nature left alone will do a great job!  If you are getting a smell in your coach something is wrong. Among other options a somke or water test can be done.
HTH Jim
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« Reply #7 on: March 21, 2008, 06:02:24 PM »

I found two items that created a smell in the coach while driving. The first was that the trap in the shower had dried up over the summer and was letting odors come in. The second was a little harder to find. In my toilet there is a small overflow hole leading to a trap and then into the holding tank. I finally plugged the overflow vent and solved the problem.

Richard
« Last Edit: March 22, 2008, 06:01:17 AM by DrivingMissLazy » Logged

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« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2008, 01:44:14 AM »

Does it smell like someone S*** in a pine forest? If so your using Pine Sol!
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« Reply #9 on: March 22, 2008, 02:33:13 AM »

Does it smell like someone S*** in a pine forest? If so your using Pine Sol!

Yes.


dg
« Last Edit: March 22, 2008, 02:34:50 AM by TexasBorderDude » Logged

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« Reply #10 on: March 22, 2008, 06:17:33 AM »

Hi jjrbus,
Whoever told you that yeast doesn't activate until it reaches 170 degrees is full of........yes, you guessed it. Yeast activates at 85 to 105 degrees. Much hotter than that and the yeast is killed. Look it up.
Thanks, Sam 4106
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« Reply #11 on: March 22, 2008, 07:09:17 AM »

Hi jjrbus,
Whoever told you that yeast doesn't activate until it reaches 170 degrees is full of........yes, you guessed it. Yeast activates at 85 to 105 degrees. Much hotter than that and the yeast is killed. Look it up.
Thanks, Sam 4106
That's what I was thinking.  In a bakery that makes donuts from scratch, they work the yeast into the dough and then give it "table time" for the yeast to activate and do its thing.  No initial heat.  Although afterwards, the dough is warm from the yeast activity.

That said, I didn't know yeast broke down poo.
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« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2008, 08:40:28 AM »

I found two items that created a smell in the coach while driving. The first was that the trap in the shower had dried up over the summer and was letting odors come in. The second was a little harder to find. In my toilet there is a small overflow hole leading to a trap and then into the holding tank. I finally plugged the overflow vent and solved the problem.

Richard

What brand of toilet???  Sealand??
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« Reply #13 on: March 22, 2008, 09:13:49 AM »

LOL    Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy
Im sure glad I read this one.. LOL.. i needed a laugh..
BUT, I thimk if you STOP puting your Nose in the toilet, it might not smell so bad  Grin

Carry On..
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« Reply #14 on: March 22, 2008, 09:42:03 AM »



What brand of toilet???  Sealand??

I really do not remember since I no longer have DML. I would suspect that most if not all toilets have this overflow. On mine it was so high up on the toilet bowl that the water never got up high enough to replenish the water in the trap.

Richard
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« Reply #15 on: March 22, 2008, 11:12:23 AM »

I have never used any chemicals in the tank, and I don't have any odor problem.  The secret is a 2" vent stack all the way to the roof, and of course no leaks in the toilet or pipes. 

If you use chemicals that stop the bacteria breakdown, then its not good for where ever you dump it.  I believe its a cause of many issues in public dump stations - all the chemicals that get put in there. In a septic system, the poo needs to break down and the chemicals stop that breakdown.  The best thing for a septic system is poo, and to allow the natural bacteria to break it down the solids.   I allow my bus holding tank to act just like a septic tank.

I'm not sure the chemical  are that good at stopping odors anyway.
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« Reply #16 on: March 22, 2008, 11:48:50 AM »

That said, I didn't know yeast broke down poo.

yeast doesn't break anything down, it ferments, bacteria is what makes a septic system work .... a good composting toilet solves all the problems, properly set up there's no smell, and there's no messy black tank to deal with, just a bit of flower bed fertilizer a few times a year and a gray water tank that can be dumped near anywhere Cheesy

Bill
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« Reply #17 on: March 22, 2008, 01:28:42 PM »

OK I looked it up, what I am reading is use water from 100 to 130 degrees depending on type of yeast to activate it.
 I no longer use anything!!! Mother nature does a great job. I am fullltiming and wonder if some of the problems are by people that use bus occasionally and are always starting with a squeaky clean tank? When I dump I try to keep some of the batch in the tank to kick start the next batch.
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« Reply #18 on: March 22, 2008, 05:39:50 PM »

Don't use that crap to deodorize anything.  Really!  And H3 was precisely on point when he suggested that the black water be left alone to work.  Don't dump "daily".  It can sit there for a year.  When its "done working" it is all liquid.

The key is to have a well performing vent system.  Mine is 2 inches and has two 45's in the run to the roof.  It is near vertical.  The code says "no bends and vertical" and that is good advice if you can(no pun).

I, out of ignorance, have done literally everything in the book to "MAKE" my system "BE" odorous.  No dice!  I have poured Red Devil lye into the black tank as a yearly ritual and run down the road with just a few gallons in there.  When I dumped I could see through the bottom of the black tank.  It is translucent plastic and supported by straps and not insulated stock.  Really clean.  The first time I used it after lye it was bacteria free and no odor.  Next I started adding those chems that perfume everything.....no smell in the coach from that ever.  I even added that stuff that promotes fermentation and I still had no odor.  It seemed impervious to all my efforts to "IMPROVE" it's performance and was so for many many years.  Even with the toilet off the floor for repair....no Stinky.  Amazing!

So, one day after I had put down flooring in the bathroom and was replacing parts in the flush circuit part of the toilet, I finished up putting the toilet back down with a pee and a flush.  Holy be-jeez crapola and gag.....my God what a horrific odor.  I immediately pulled the toilet up again and reset the gasket.  Still a smell from hell.  I mean unbearable.  Again up and back down....no joy.  The next day I replaced that perfectly good gasket too, again, to no avail.  I went up on the roof and ran a garden hose into the drain at full force and that filled up my black tank smartly.  No clog.  Installed a new vent cap(those are really required) and like the song says "nope, sorry, still nothin".  I did everything many times over.  It was an insoluble problem that i thought would cause the Winnebago to "catch fire" or "roll of a cliff" unattended.  Went on for more than a year but I wasn't in her full time but I was full timing for 4 months with that Steven King situation.

Turns out that when I was putting in that floor, I or my helper, fell against or used it as a grab rail, the ROOF VENT LINE.  2 inch ABS is and looks stout.  Well it got a small crack in the rear side and I guess the tension on the pipe kept it open a smidgen.  God only knows what a friggen hole in that pipe would have smelled like and my imagination runs amok.  I found the problem quite by accident when in frustration while replacing the seal for the umpteenth time I grabbed that vent pipe and gave it a vicious shake.  It cracked off in my hand.  I figured i broke it and was surprised that I could.  While retching I looked at the end of the pipe and noticed that less than a half of the break was shiny.   HUMMMMM!  Cut it clean and squeezed in a coupler with glue and guess what.  This story ends.

If you don't have a 2 inch vent directly into your black tank.....DO THAT.  If you do and you have odor....find the break or problem.  Those chems are used to treat the symptoms of a problem.  Nothing fancy...no fans to suck the fumes, no perfumes no enzymes or yeasts or anything..just pour pooopy into the tank and drain when it is at least half full after driving(preferably).  No fancy aux vents to the toilet rim or pipe are needed to make a good system work and WILL NOT make a broken system function.

This was such a miserable experience for me that I get flummoxed trying to make the appropriate emphasis.  The fix was so simple. Drat!

Good luck with this everybody that has the problem.  I won't visit till you have conquored it!

John
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