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Author Topic: 4106 Power Steering  (Read 3727 times)
Lin
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1965 MC-5a




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« Reply #15 on: June 12, 2012, 04:25:40 PM »

Tom, you have a point there.  On my last bus, we used steel pipe for the major run when we installed power steering.  I think we ordered the pipe based on burst pressure ratings.
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You don't have to believe everything you think.
gus
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« Reply #16 on: June 12, 2012, 06:57:45 PM »

Mark,,

The hyd assist steering is basically mechanical so the hydraulics have nothing to do with slop or wheel play. All the adjusting is in the steering box, the bevel gear box or the U-joints.

The hyd part is piggy-backed onto the mechanical system so none of those hyd valves have anything to do with steering slop unless there is some delay in the hyd assist coming online.
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
OneLapper
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« Reply #17 on: June 20, 2012, 08:23:23 PM »

Ok, sorry this is a week later than I promised.....















Hope these help!

Mark
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OneLapper
1964 PD4106-2853
www.markdavia.com
kaptar
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« Reply #18 on: June 25, 2012, 11:32:06 AM »

Sorry for the late thank you on the trailer hitch pictures. We just get busy at times. Thanks again.  Harry
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fortyniner
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« Reply #19 on: June 26, 2012, 06:09:13 AM »

Mark, did you have to swap the steering arm to accommodate the drag link? The conversion instructions also mention the need to customize the steering prop shaft length. Was that required in your conversion?

-Tom P.
 
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Tom Phillips
PD4106-453
PD4106-2864
87 Alfa Milano
93 Range Rover
87 190e-16 Mercedes
92 Jeep Comanche
Gordie Allen
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« Reply #20 on: June 26, 2012, 08:01:15 AM »

Hey Mark,
I'm fairly new to this bus conversion game.  Bought a 1956 4104.  It was converted originally in the late '80's.  I've gutted it to the skin and removed the floor.  On my list of mechanical repairs are:
1.  Replace all radius arm bushings.
2.  Replace over sized radiator with correct fitting one
I noticed in your post you've done both.  May I ask where did you get the bushings?  Are they rubber or polyurethane?  Did you switch to 2 piece bushings?  Where did you get your radiator? 
I've put these questions out on the board, but not getting any replies.
Thanks,
Gordie
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Augusta, MI
1956 4104
DD 671
OneLapper
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« Reply #21 on: June 26, 2012, 08:40:36 PM »

Mark, did you have to swap the steering arm to accommodate the drag link? The conversion instructions also mention the need to customize the steering prop shaft length. Was that required in your conversion?

-Tom P.
 

Hi Tom,

When I purchased the power steering unit from Sheppard I also needed to purchase the steering arm (referred to as the Pitman Arm in the Sheppard manual) that fit the application.  The person at Sheppard knew that the arm from the 4107 with factory PS would work.  The Pitman Arm was $125 new and readily available, which made me think there's some more current application for that arm.
After mounting the power steering box in the center of the axle, I had to shorten the drag link.  I purchased a die, cut the link to size and then cut the threads into it.
I also needed to shorten the prop shaft, but not by much.  If I recall it was only 3/4" or so.  I had replaced the worn out original shaft with a new PTO shaft a few years earlier, so it was still in perfect condition, thus the cut and weld cost me $50. 

Hope this helps!  Good luck!

Mark
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OneLapper
1964 PD4106-2853
www.markdavia.com
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« Reply #22 on: June 26, 2012, 08:59:31 PM »

Hey Mark,
I'm fairly new to this bus conversion game.  Bought a 1956 4104.  It was converted originally in the late '80's.  I've gutted it to the skin and removed the floor.  On my list of mechanical repairs are:
1.  Replace all radius arm bushings.
2.  Replace over sized radiator with correct fitting one
I noticed in your post you've done both.  May I ask where did you get the bushings?  Are they rubber or polyurethane?  Did you switch to 2 piece bushings?  Where did you get your radiator? 
I've put these questions out on the board, but not getting any replies.
Thanks,
Gordie

Hi Gordie,

I used the original single piece rubber bushings and purchased them from Luke at US Coach.  Luke as them in stock and all things considered, they're dirt cheap at $11 each (maybe they were even $7 each, I forget).  One trick to installing the rubber bushings is use an air chisel to remove all the rust that's built up around the inside of the radius arm end.  It might look clean, but it's not!  After the hole is the correct size again you can use a small press to pop them in.  Pretty simple and straight forward. 

The radiator was easy too.  I brought the original radiator to a good radiator shop and told him I needed the most efficient core he could fit in it.  Boom, $1500 later the thing was pretty enough to hang on the wall!  The old timer was soooo impressed the entire radiator was made from brass, tanks, necks etc.  I think he enjoyed building it.

My engine still gets warm on a long hill, but I doubt its the radiator.  I have to check the oil thermostat/aqua stat flow thingie.  I have a spare so I thought I would test and adjust that unit on the bench and then swap the old one out.  I think my muffler is part of the problem.  Im working on that.

Good luck and fire away with any questions, I'll help out if I can.

Mark
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OneLapper
1964 PD4106-2853
www.markdavia.com
RJ
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« Reply #23 on: June 26, 2012, 11:04:21 PM »

My engine still gets warm on a long hill, but I doubt its the radiator.


Hmmmmm. . . Considering the owner. . .   Me thinks the right shoe needs a dietary supplement!   Grin


JK, Mark!!


 Wink
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RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
Fresno CA
Gordie Allen
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« Reply #24 on: June 26, 2012, 11:34:51 PM »

Hey Mark,
Thanks for the quick response.  I was reluctant to call Luke as he seems like a pretty busy guy and I didn't want to just badger him with questions.  I'll get the bushings from him.  I'll also ask him about a source for a new radiator.  The one I have is out of a truck and is about 6" too tall and 3" too wide. The PO put a skid plate under it as it is only about 6" off the ground after the suspension is up.  I have to be real careful picking service entrances as too steep a transition and the radiator would bottom out..  Drove me crazy thinking that I was going to rip the radiator out every time the skid plate hit the pavement.

I guess it's time I met Luke and take advantage of his knowledge and experience.
Thanks again,
Gordie
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Augusta, MI
1956 4104
DD 671
OneLapper
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« Reply #25 on: June 27, 2012, 11:22:44 AM »

Goodie,

What are the diamentions for the 4104 radiator? How does it mount? I have a very nice 4106 spare radiator. Maybe they interchange.
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OneLapper
1964 PD4106-2853
www.markdavia.com
OneLapper
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« Reply #26 on: June 27, 2012, 11:25:12 AM »

My engine still gets warm on a long hill, but I doubt its the radiator.


Hmmmmm. . . Considering the owner. . .   Me thinks the right shoe needs a dietary supplement!   Grin


JK, Mark!!


 Wink

LOL!  I've been known to go pretty fast when I need to!!!
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OneLapper
1964 PD4106-2853
www.markdavia.com
gus
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« Reply #27 on: September 29, 2012, 08:15:30 PM »

The solution to overheating on long grades is usually a lower gear, works every time.

I've driven the manual 4104 ten miles uphill in second gear with no heating problems.

In the Allison 4107 I just drop down to first and climb the same way. For some reason it won't keep cool in second very long on long grades, probably not enough RPMs - high RPMs are the key.
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
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