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Author Topic: what have I found  (Read 2346 times)
Stan
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« Reply #15 on: April 15, 2008, 11:52:58 AM »

Getting back to installing the rear control panel. There is no need to put it in a locked box. The standard wiring for a rear control panel has the voltage source coming from the master (key) switch on the dash. Unless that switch is turned on you can't start the bus from the rear. The worst thing that happens is someone turns the switch to the middle and then the bus won't start from the front.
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Bob Gil
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« Reply #16 on: April 15, 2008, 12:16:39 PM »

OK I have another thing that I have learned from this today.  i was wondering if it were standard on buses how many of them got stolen because of them.  that answers that question.

I have a buzzer that I can use but I am aftrid that I will damage the digital gauges if I don't disconet them when I put power to them.  I have been known to fassen test leads to the wires of a LED light and us that it lights up faster than the normal test bulb.
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Fort Worth, Texas where GOD is so close you don't even need a phone!

1968 GM Bus of unknown model 6V53 engine (aftermarket) converted with house hold items.

Had small engine fire and had no 12 volt system at time of purchase. 
Coach is all 110 w 14KW diesel genrator
NJT5047
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« Reply #17 on: April 15, 2008, 12:38:33 PM »

There are crimp-on terminals that have heat-shrink insulation as part of the terminal.  Just crimp and heat.  Makes a really tight fix.   No moisture incursion into the terminal to cause later 'gremlins' in your wiring. 
Do RTS' have a regulator mounted in the control box?   That seems a dumb place to install an air-cooled regulator?  Unless the box has air ducts for cooling? 
Rather than cut wires from their attachments, cut off all the remaining bundle insulation and leave the wires attached to there respective sensor or terminal.  Then clean back in the harnes to where undamaged harness is located and install a terminal block with a sufficient number of terminals to connect the engine and whatever (lights?) to the existing harness.  Then mark, route, and connect each lead as you go.  You can ID most wires by what they are connected to.
This may help avoid having 30 wires of unknown origin and having to sort out or trace each one. 
The above idea assumes that the engine wires are still connected...albeit a little crispy.  Wink
Another option would be to have someone cut an engine harness off of a similar coach?  You got an RTS salvage yard nearby?
Or let you carefully remove the rear chassis  harness.
Good luck, JR


   

 
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JR Lynch , Charlotte, NC
87 MC9, 6V92TA DDEC, HT748R ATEC

"Every government interference in the economy consists of giving an unearned benefit, extorted by force, to some men at the expense of others.

Ayn Rand
Dallas
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« Reply #18 on: April 15, 2008, 01:56:35 PM »

Bob, since you have what looks like a pretty simple system, I emailed you the wiring diagrams for a GMC PD4104 and a 1950 Flxible Visicoach.

I could also send you the wiring diagrams for some skoolies, but I'm not sure what year they are for or what make model they are.. I haven't looked at them for a couple of years.

One more thought, I have the maintenance manual for the PD4103 (GMC) which is a tad bit simpler than the PD4104, but that one will require me to actually do some work and may cost you.

Anyone have the wiring diagrams for Ward or Superior Bus bodies? I think it's possible that's what this unit may be. It doesn't really look like a Bluebird from what I've seen in the past.
I doubt that it's a Thomas, the siding doesn't look right for one of those.

Bob,
Just a thought... look in the drivers control box, (If it has one), under the drivers seat, outside on the drivers side. See if there is a Vin Number stamped into the frame rail. If not, look for the number on the right or left frame rail behind the front tire.

Good luck,

Dallas
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compedgemarine
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« Reply #19 on: April 15, 2008, 05:26:15 PM »

just me but I think things are getting over complicated here what with the digital dash and senders and all. the bus started life as something so if what it is cant be determined then we need to pick something as a base. the diagrams that Dallas sent you are a good base. is the coach 12 or 24 volt? when it was built it had no fancy electrical so if the 4104 or 5 or whatever is close then work from that and get the base systems back wired. lights, start, stop etc. Before it had digital gauges that is where the PO started from. when all that works we need to identify the brand of gauges and treat them as a seperate system. there is the possibility that there is still alot of old wiring from its bus days that did nothing and is now burnt and confusing the issue. there has to be a VIN somewhere or a something on the title. check with the DMV and see if you can do a title search. maybe that will turn up something or someone that can provide a better history on its origins.
just my rambling $.02
steve
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luvrbus
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« Reply #20 on: April 15, 2008, 05:42:31 PM »

this guy will  be allright once he get a system going to check the wiring probably the only original wiring is going to be the lights The bus sure looks like a Ward to me by the way the windshields look and probably had a 401 V6 GMC gas burner in it's first life and the digital gauges are not going to be a problem all I have installed in old cars were 2 wires plus a ground  but like you say he needs to find out what brand he has
« Last Edit: April 15, 2008, 05:57:06 PM by luvrbus » Logged
Bob Gil
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« Reply #21 on: April 15, 2008, 05:43:22 PM »

The man that did the last conversion told me that the bus was one of the buses that they used on military bases as a shuttle when it was new.  He did not know any more about the model than that saying it looked too much like a dolphin before he put the end caps on both ends. He said you can see them all the time in the old movies but I have not found one yet.

It was owned by a hockey team in Canada at one time and a singing group and a traveling salesman.  

When he got it he totally striped it out and redid every thing from floor to ceiling and redid every thing.  He had it insured for 68,000 when it caught fire and the insurance company got it.  

He said that it originally had a big V 6 gasser in it and the engine had been switched before he got it.  The bus was never a fast runner and was really slow on the hills.  If I am not mistaken he said it had been turned up to 2300 or 2400 rpms to give it a little better travel speed and help on the hills.

I will crawl around under it tomarrow if I can and look at the bottom of it and see if I can find any numbers.  As of now the only numbers I have on it are a VIN RG7780RD2080R but nobody could recioize it before when I posted it.

I am going to try to rewire it simple as possible.  I have found the wires to the rear stop turn and clearance and am narrowing them down as I go.  

Yes I have found there are some wire that don't go to any thing.  i have pulled about 30 foot of wire out that was not attached to any thing.  And about 15 foot of hdy air or other type hose out that was just hanging there not attached to any thing.  amazing what can hang under one of these buses for a long time.
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Fort Worth, Texas where GOD is so close you don't even need a phone!

1968 GM Bus of unknown model 6V53 engine (aftermarket) converted with house hold items.

Had small engine fire and had no 12 volt system at time of purchase. 
Coach is all 110 w 14KW diesel genrator
compedgemarine
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« Reply #22 on: April 15, 2008, 05:55:56 PM »

not really suprised at what you find. in rebuilding boats both pleasure and race I often find old wires and hoses and cables that do nothing. I guess it is too much work to pull it out so they just shove it up somewhere. since you have a VIN as I suggested I would try the DMV and try to do a title search. if the number is good it should trace back each owner except the military as they may not have titled it if it was kept on base. that may at least get you some info. I have done title searches on cars before and traced back every owner and where the car had been. if you are in a smaller town with a DMV that is not usually busy they tend to be more helpful.
steve
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NJT5047
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« Reply #23 on: April 15, 2008, 06:35:59 PM »

FWIW, while your are pulling wires, add a few "blank" wires between the dash and engine room.  You'll want'em for something.   Who knows what you may want to add to the electrical system.
If you don't have a backup cam, might want to consider pulling coax for the camera too.


JR
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JR Lynch , Charlotte, NC
87 MC9, 6V92TA DDEC, HT748R ATEC

"Every government interference in the economy consists of giving an unearned benefit, extorted by force, to some men at the expense of others.

Ayn Rand
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