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Author Topic: Port & Starboard  (Read 1595 times)
Ednj
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« on: June 08, 2006, 07:21:59 PM »

Does anyone use the dry side wet side? Huh
You know water on the driver side and electric on the pass side.
Can you run 110 & 12volt in the same chase?
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MCI-9
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Len Silva
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« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2006, 07:43:32 PM »

Most campgrounds are set up so the utilities are on the driver side rear.

The NEC Electric code calls for the electric supply to be in the rear third, left side or rear of the coach.

Electric 110 and 12 volt cannot be run in the same "raceway" but I think if all the 110 were in cables (romex, BX. boat wire, etc. it would be acceptable to be in the same chase.  The may be an issue with noising up some 12 volt electronics if the supply leads are run parallel to the 110 volt cable.

Len
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Danny
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« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2006, 08:26:42 PM »

PORT is the "port to which the hookups go"

Port and the word "LEFT" has the same number of letters in them.  Port wine is RED - Nav lights are red on the port side - I guess that's another topic, huh?  The the motorhome folks these days like to call the driver's seat the cockpit and the driver the pilot - so, I guess that works...

Danny

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I have heard it said, "life comes at you fast".  I didn't know it would be in the shape of a bus  :-)
gumpy
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« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2006, 05:06:50 AM »

I was thinking of running my electrical wiring through my water lines to save having to run conduit in the same locations as the water. I figured since I already had to run water lines there, that I could kill two birds.. well, you get the picture.  I just couldn't figure out how to get the wires out of the PEX without leaking water.

Smiley

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Craig Shepard
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http://bus.gumpydog.com - "Some Assembly Required"
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« Reply #4 on: June 09, 2006, 05:26:59 AM »

SIKAFLEX....[/color]
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gumpy
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« Reply #5 on: June 09, 2006, 05:38:34 AM »

I saw one time where someone had run the wires for his rooftop solar panels down the drain vent pipe. He brought them out inside the coach, and sealed the hole with caulk. Saved putting another hole in the roof. I thought it was quite innovative.

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Craig Shepard
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NewbeeMC9
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« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2006, 06:17:08 AM »

Gumpy,

Did you try using a Tee or Y compression fitting with a Rubber cork?   We've used those to put thermocouples in gas lines before.  You might need to use round wire.

Something like this http://www.omega.com/pptst/MFT_FEEDTHROUGH.html

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gumpy
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« Reply #7 on: June 09, 2006, 06:20:22 AM »

Shoot. That was supposed to be a joke.

I didn't really think it would be a good idea to run my electrial wires thorough my water lines.  Roll Eyes


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Craig Shepard
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NewbeeMC9
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« Reply #8 on: June 09, 2006, 06:31:17 AM »

Do it your way Cheesy Grin
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TomC
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« Reply #9 on: June 09, 2006, 06:51:32 AM »

I have my generator mounted next to the front seat like a front engine (transit bus) and the electrical center right behind the driver's seat over the left front wheel well to have the shortest run for the genset.  The wires run down the exterior of the wall about a foot above the floor with the AC in plastic conduit with the 12v wires run without conduit.  My cabinets are built with a space behind so I can run new wires relatively easy (like running my backup camera which took about an hour to run the wire the length of the bus).  The only wires that are buried in the wall or ceiling are the 3 roof airs, 2 Fantastic fans, 5 halogen puck lights down the center roof in the front.  All else is surface mounted.  One of the reasons I took longer to convert is that everything is accessible in a relatively short amount of time and doesn't require tearing things apart to get to them.  But then again, that's the old truck driver in me coming out (left over from how commercial vehicles are made-to be easily serviced).  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
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