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Author Topic: IBP  (Read 3756 times)
HighTechRedneck
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« Reply #30 on: June 13, 2008, 09:02:49 PM »


Holding it while using the hole saw can be a challenge, if it grabs, it can do some serious damage.  Sad  Shocked


Saw a tip recently on this.  Haven't had a chance to use it since though, but it sounds good.

Essentially, create a quick and cheap jig to hold it in place.  Put the piece to be hole cut on a piece of wood that is mounted to a work bench.  Run in a few power screws just outside each edge of the metal piece.  Use at least 3-4 on each side (more on larger pieces) to prevent excessive pressure against the metal piece in any one spot.  This will help prevent it from breaking loose and spinning while running the hole saw on it.
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #31 on: June 13, 2008, 11:12:43 PM »

Hay Guy's,

I make alot of "Hi End" Kitchen Hoods for some elite builders in our area and here are some numbers on stainless.

22ga, 4x8' sheet brushed w/Lazar film $312.65
22ga, 4x8' sheet polished w/Lazar film $396.00

I have not purchased 20 ga. yet this year but, it is usually 80 bucks more then 22 ga.

Bending and sheering 20ga stainless is equivalent to bending and sheering 16ga cold rolled steel. The stuff is HARD

All your equipment needs to be Big, Big, not sheet metal grade.. Ever priced out a 5x10 Plazma cutting table? $$$$

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Nick-
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Blacksheep
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« Reply #32 on: June 14, 2008, 06:54:51 AM »

Nick the 20g stuff I was given was fairly easy to work with! Like I said a regular B&D jig saw went thru it like wood! My handy hand held air sander smoothed the edges just fine!

I DID try a plasma cutter on the small first single light panel but it tried to warp so I didn't want to take a chance on the larger piece's!

BS
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prevost82
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« Reply #33 on: June 14, 2008, 09:10:35 AM »

Yea ... I agree with Nick, "The stuff is HARD", something doesn't sound right with that 20ga SS that you have Ace . I was suprised when you said that the "jig saw went thru it like wood". SS has nickel in it and nickel is very hard stuff. Nickel also work-hardens making it even harder. I've never been able to cut it with a straight cabon steel holesaw or a jigsaw, it just rounds the tips off the teeth. That why lazer or waterjet cutting is preferred.

Ron
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H3Jim
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« Reply #34 on: June 14, 2008, 09:18:37 AM »

I have cut many holes in stainless with a standard holesaw, along with using a jigsaw to cut the stainless, and drilled many holes in the stainless steel in my bus.  Its true if you use too high a speed, it work hardens, and then good luck using anything.  I have found that if you use a slow speed, or even the technique of start (still a slow speed) and stop, start and stop etc - stainless can be cut fairly quickly and easily.  Use of stanlless cutting juice also helps, but is not necessary.  Something about the slow speed and high pressure, the teeth really bite in.
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Jim Stewart
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #35 on: June 14, 2008, 09:32:45 AM »

Hi Guy's,

There is alot of grades of Stainless. Put a magnet to it, if it sticks even the slightest bit, it's a lower grade then 308 that I use and would

explain why you can cut it so easily.

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H3Jim
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« Reply #36 on: June 14, 2008, 09:39:26 AM »

What grade comes stock in a Prevost?
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Jim Stewart
El Cajon, Ca.  (San Diego area)

Travel is more than the seeing of sights, it is a change that goes on, deep  and permanent, in the ideas of living.
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