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Author Topic: tail light question  (Read 1862 times)
Sojourner
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« Reply #15 on: June 13, 2008, 09:54:38 PM »

I met get 4 of SC Bayonet either 1003, 1041, 1073, 1155, 1056 or any similar size bulb's base.....break off the globe as per above post. And then re-read that post.

Picture of 3 bulb's bases...SC are the ones you need.

Hope this is more clear.

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
« Last Edit: June 13, 2008, 10:00:03 PM by Sojourner » Logged
Bob Gil
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« Reply #16 on: June 14, 2008, 06:30:27 AM »

Jerry I understand what you are saying once you get the wires coming from the bulb bases you can wire them to new scokets and then just plug in the new lights.

I think that sounds like what he is wanting to do.
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Fort Worth, Texas where GOD is so close you don't even need a phone!

1968 GM Bus of unknown model 6V53 engine (aftermarket) converted with house hold items.

Had small engine fire and had no 12 volt system at time of purchase. 
Coach is all 110 w 14KW diesel genrator
Blacksheep
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« Reply #17 on: June 14, 2008, 06:51:36 AM »

Jerry thanks but I think the LED manufacturer has already done that part. If you look at the picture of the red and amber LED's I posted, you will se that the end of the wire has exactly what you describe! The problem is the amber has a single contact which works fine. The RED has a double which does NOT work on my bus connector since it is a single!

Look at the picture and blow it up. You will see that there is NO need to buy bulbs and break them off. No wiring, no soldering!
It's already done!

BS
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HighTechRedneck
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« Reply #18 on: June 14, 2008, 07:14:39 AM »

Jerry thanks but I think the LED manufacturer has already done that part. If you look at the picture of the red and amber LED's I posted, you will se that the end of the wire has exactly what you describe! The problem is the amber has a single contact which works fine. The RED has a double which does NOT work on my bus connector since it is a single!

Look at the picture and blow it up. You will see that there is NO need to buy bulbs and break them off. No wiring, no soldering!
It's already done!

BS

But their base doesn't match your sockets on the red.  So you either need to create an adapter using Jerry's method and attaching it to a socket that does match the LED mfg's base, or you need to replace your socket with the right type.

I understand your reluctance to cut into the original wiring.  But personally that would be my preference.  When you're done, less connections to go wrong.  There should be enough wire coming out to the socket to avoid having to break into the harness.  Just use a diagonal cutter to cut the wire as close to the socket as possible.  Strip back enough insulation to solder the new sockets wires to it.  (be sure to use rosin core solder, not acid core)  Tape it up good.  All done.
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Blacksheep
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« Reply #19 on: June 14, 2008, 07:43:29 AM »

HTR yes and that is why I posted the other picture of the NEW socket to see if that would work. Using that, I wouldn't have to cut anything. It simply attaches via the blade connectors and it is 2 wire, not 1 or 3 like most I have seen!
BS
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Sojourner
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« Reply #20 on: June 14, 2008, 08:28:52 AM »

The RED ones are the double contact lights where my bus has a single! I was wondering if going to a two contact socket like this for the RED lights would work!

Thanks
BS

Also in the other pic you can see the NEW LED's with the plug socket on the end that simply (Huh) goes into your existing socket!


Ace...OK my friend....I am going to ask you a question. Is that first picture of a female double contact bulb's socket is a.....part of pigtail assembly?
If so...clip off the terminal spades and rosin solder to one of SC base onto a open filament's post. After 2 SC base is rosin soldered of each wire from the pigtail assembly.........then rosin solder 2 wires to a DC (double contact) outer metal shell or case for grounding. Then rosin solder the other end of each grd wire to inter side of 2 SC base. Note...you have to carefully remove the resin after glass is broken and remove enough to make room for GRD wire to rosin solder.

OR Better Yet......call the manufacture for 4 pc of wired SC bayonet if they will sell  them separately? ? ?

Sorry for confusion...I forgot to mention the GRD wire need to added to pigtail assy.

Ace, I am glad that you keep asking until it fix and running. It may still not be answered but keep asking because we the bus nut being not in person can cause confusion & slow getting the correct answers.

And it good that you include pictures are a big step to get our points across of whatever problem, many bus nuts need photograh the subject so it nearly like been there to help.

"A Good Picture Can Speak a 1000 Words!"

Whatever, if it answered or not....please keep asking until were both happy.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry

PS...whenever I  see or hear from you....Lakeland, FL & popcorn and great SS (stainless steel) coach.

While I was typing.....slow....you may already correct your problem.

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Blacksheep
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« Reply #21 on: June 14, 2008, 07:33:57 PM »

Here is what I have determined so far....

Bus connector is a simple 2 wire design. 1 hot going to center of bulb and 1 ground going to side of bulb. This is the way ALL 8 lights are including stop/tail, turn, and back-up!

The NEW led lights are as follows:

back-up and turn signal lights have 2 wires. White wire and black wire. White wire is ground and black wire is hot. These hook up to existing harness and work properly.

 Combination Tail light, stop light have 3 wires. 1 White, 1 black and 1 green. It says on back of light that white wire is ground, black wire is stop light and green wire is tail light. The brass plug or bulb end that is pre wired onto the wires for simplicity has staggered pins on the sides and a double contact on the bottom.

Now today I went an purchased a 2 wire bulb socket from Napa. Came home and hooked the 2 bus wires to it and plugged in the NEW led brass plug with attached LED light. Didn't work! I grounded the plug and it worked fine!

Now my question is, (a different question) are the stop lights supposed to work when the motor is off and no air?  Mine do not! I know they work but today I got nothing when just sitting. I had the batteries on, and the ignition switch on. Stepping on the brake with no air got no results! Tomorrow I will air it up and have it running to see if they work that way!

Thanks for all the help guys! Sooner or later, I will get these lights to work! They sure do look good! It would be a shame for them NOT to work! Smiley

BS
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tekebird
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« Reply #22 on: June 14, 2008, 07:42:07 PM »

why not use the common ground and the hot from the old applications

Hot from brake to brake light pin, hot from tail to tailight pin, ground from either to ground pin

the hots are likely coming from the relay/switch and the ground is ground....you could ground direct to your tailgate frame if you wanted ....no?



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Sojourner
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« Reply #23 on: June 14, 2008, 07:59:02 PM »

Yeaaa!
About brake light works without air to the brake chamber's line...no. Air brake system contain air pressure stoplight switch on the outlet side of foot control valve or a tee fitting along that line or junction block. So you need air supply of about 90 psi before testing.

Leds are great.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
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TomC
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« Reply #24 on: June 14, 2008, 10:05:26 PM »

I would wire the two red lights together; the others like the originals.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
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