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Author Topic: Radiator temps for solving overheating issue.  (Read 2644 times)
Chaz
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« Reply #15 on: June 27, 2008, 09:29:51 PM »

Dang, Richard.  Roll Eyes I did see something about 2 t-stats but haven't gotten that far yet. Guess i need to look at that too. Oh well..............

 Thanx guys,
    Chaz
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« Reply #16 on: June 27, 2008, 11:33:21 PM »

Go ahead and change the stats. This is the best chance you'll get till you empty the system again. Coolant is expensive. The best question is why not. You're over half way there...Cable
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Sofar Sogood
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« Reply #17 on: June 28, 2008, 07:12:21 AM »

Chaz the thermostats have seals in the housings change those also they are important to the cooling system and can be bought at Napa Auto Parts
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JohnEd
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« Reply #18 on: June 28, 2008, 11:57:29 AM »

Pull the heater and defroster exchangers and have them boiled...at least..  They must have junk in them that you don't want in your "clean" system.  Even if the stuff hasn't already clogged them it will soak up the additives in your spendy antifreeze.  Have the colant analyzed after you get the system reassembled and run in so you will have a baseline for future troubleshooting and sched maint.  You are supposed to change the AF on an interval basis but an analysis over rules that and might just advise a additive pac.  Lots a money saved and with the damage coolant can do to the DD 2 stroke, lots of insurance.

John
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Chaz
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« Reply #19 on: July 31, 2008, 10:37:40 AM »

Well, I breezed thru my old posts looking for who wanted to know what it cost to have my radiator done. (I can't seem to find it)
Oh well, I just got my bill today and it was 331.12. As usual for this sorry s.o.b. it was twice what he quoted. But there is noone else around that does it. Couple that with all the other expences............................ damn.

Not a happy camper.........hell, not even camping!!!!

Chaz
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skipn
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« Reply #20 on: July 31, 2008, 11:22:35 AM »

Chaz,

   What was all done to your rad?

 Skip
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« Reply #21 on: July 31, 2008, 12:09:01 PM »

Just for information Chaz,  rodding is about what your were doing, which is running a rod through each tube.  The difference is that the radiator shop should have the right size rod for any size tube.  Further, rodding usually opens up a bunch of leaks since many pin holes are just sealed with crud.  The shop is also well equipped to test and solder, test and solder, etc.
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Chaz
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« Reply #22 on: July 31, 2008, 12:38:15 PM »

Just "Boiling it out", rodding it, new gasket (I had one), and new bolts. Whether that is a good deal or not really isn't the point. The place I took it to is VERY well known for such crap. He bends allot of people over. Most are people who don't know any better! (Burns my @$#!) I have done work for him and even sold him a really nice welder for cheap and ALWAYS treated him right. Well, next time, BEND OVER!!! And no grease!!! If he bitches and goes somewhere else, he'll at least know what the score is. He's also the kind of guy who CONTINOUSLY bitches about money! Always trys to beat you down. And yet you should see the 3500 sq.ft. house he built. It wouldn't be so bad if he'd just keep his mouth shut. THAT'S what gets to me. I'm always tickled for people who do well!! It's admirable!!! But I think he thinks that if he pisses and moans enough it will off set the screwin you just took.  Trust me, even his employees will tell you the same thing. By the way, he has a complete auto shop not just a radiator repair. I"d have went elsewhere if there was such a place.

  Done bitchin. (or I'll start sounding like him)   Wink Grin
    Chaz
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Pix of my bus here: http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/Skulptor/Motor%20Coach/
What I create here:   www.amstudio.us
 
"Imagination is more important than knowledge". Albert Einstein
skipn
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« Reply #23 on: July 31, 2008, 12:59:08 PM »

Chaz,

   I can empathize with what happened...next time if you have the time do it yourself
 you have more than enough talent to do it.  For the rod brush you can use a gun cleaning
 rod with the proper caliber trimmed down to fit the rods. I know you can probably out solder
 most of us here...I personally like a high silver content solder rod for patching. soldering
 tank seems (non bolted tanks) pre tin the flats and walk it around adding with the rod.

   If the rods are too small for a barrel brush rod get some coarse copper scrubbies break off a bit
  and use a steel welding rod to push through (bulb the end with a torch). (make sure you clean each tube well before
 assembly.

  When soldering the rods have a very small tip and don't flash the fins.BTDT not good.
   Some use electric pencil tips and higher lead contents.......Oh well

   As a side note the old school baths aren't used (so I've been told) epa probably
   can't even use caustic soda anymore Sad

  FWIW
 Skip
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Chaz
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« Reply #24 on: July 31, 2008, 03:53:37 PM »

Thanx Skip for the nice compliment. I have done a couple radiator solder jobs in the past, but just wasn't sure as to what to do on such a grand scale. And time was a factor. And when he said about 90.00 to 150.00 I figured "what the hell". I can concentrate on something else. Oh, and by the way, I took the whole thing apart and marked everything so they didn't even have to do that!!  Nice, huh.
 The tips you gave may come in handy some time....maybe even to one of the other guys! Thanx!! 'preciate it.

I leave with it tomorrow morning at 7:00 for the Louisville NSRA Nationals. I hope it works ok. It did get a little too warm on the last trip to Indy, but I added another gallon of water and replaced the middle "mud flap" underneath so I'm hoping that will make a difference. I have my parts buddy working on finding me a BIG Hayden trany cooler to also put on. (one like, I think, Tom put on his bus) If that doesn't get it, I guess it will be rebuild time.  Cry Cry Cry Cry Cry Cry Cry

Thanx again,
     Chaz
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Pix of my bus here: http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/Skulptor/Motor%20Coach/
What I create here:   www.amstudio.us
 
"Imagination is more important than knowledge". Albert Einstein
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