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Author Topic: water pump  (Read 2024 times)
jhaggerty
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« on: July 05, 2008, 07:56:06 PM »

Hi Folks,

Took bus out today, overheated in about 10miles.  210 degrees. It usually runs around 185. Last night drove 250 miles with no problem. Shutters are opening o.k. Antifreeze is leaking out of the back of the water pump . There is a 1/4 inch drain hole? on the back of the pump right at the edge of the engine block. this is where it is leaking. not a huge amount. Was only down a gallon. It is an 8v71 in an MCI 9. I am guessing the water pump is not circulating the coolant. Any ideas? Possible stuck thermostat?

Thanks

Jim
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pvcces
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« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2008, 08:03:24 PM »

Jim, it looks to me like you have to fix the water pump before you can be sure about any tests that you might run. If water leaked out of the seal, perhaps some air got in that interfered with circulation.

I don't know about your MCI, but I understand the seal and bearing replacement can be done without removing the pump from the GMs. Your service manual should be helpful about this.

For what it's worth.

Tom Caffrey
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Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
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kingfa39
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« Reply #2 on: July 06, 2008, 07:18:00 PM »

They have a water pump rebuil kit availble for the GM s i did this once long ago, remove the cover on the pump, use a teering wheel type puller and remove the impeller, behind the impeller is a seal, there is a slot to one side of it, i used the handle of my channel locks and popped out the seal, used a appropriate sized soncket to gently drive in the new one , replace the impeller and the cover , took me a half hour to do this, very easy , no  need to remove the pump. hope this is clear enough, i dont recall finding this in any book but a GM mech told me how to do it and supplied the parts. not much money either
Frank allen 4106
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busnut104
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« Reply #3 on: July 06, 2008, 08:13:17 PM »

Frank: would this work on the 8v71 or 92 water pump on the mci. Thanks.
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jhaggerty
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« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2008, 04:42:14 AM »

It looks to me like it would be the same on an MCI. There is a plate on the front of the pump that would come off to access the guts of the pump. This is on the 8v71 at least.

Thanks

Jim
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JackConrad
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« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2008, 05:38:51 AM »

Hi Folks,

Took bus out today, overheated in about 10miles.  210 degrees. It usually runs around 185. Last night drove 250 miles with no problem. Shutters are opening o.k. Antifreeze is leaking out of the back of the water pump . There is a 1/4 inch drain hole? on the back of the pump right at the edge of the engine block. this is where it is leaking. not a huge amount. Was only down a gallon. It is an 8v71 in an MCI 9. I am guessing the water pump is not circulating the coolant. Any ideas? Possible stuck thermostat?

Thanks

Jim

 I tried repacing the seal on our MC-8 (8V71) but could not get the new seal to seal. I ended up replacing the pump. If you need to get a new pump, take the old one with you as there are several choices available (walking, running, left gear cut, right gear cut, etc).  Jack
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TomC
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« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2008, 10:48:46 PM »

Save yourself a big headache and get a factory rebuilt water pump.  They're about $150.00, if I remember right.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
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« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2008, 04:25:57 AM »

And since you have to drain the coolant to fix the pump, you might as well replace the thermostats and alarmstats, as well as any suspect hoses and clamps.

Cheap preventive maintenance at this point.

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Craig Shepard
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jhaggerty
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« Reply #8 on: July 11, 2008, 05:06:48 AM »

Update.  MCI sent the wrong kit but is trying to sort it out. The wrong gear was on the first kit. I am replacing the thermostats etc. at the same time. Looks like no bus this weekend.

Jim
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Sojourner
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« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2008, 06:10:26 AM »

And make sure you bleeds all coolant & heater system "highpoint" of air so it will circulate well or you will still have over heating problem. Either  via loosen hose clamp or if it equips with bleeder until bubbles is gone.

All engine's water pump are very low pressure high volume circulator or transfer pump. In otherwords, unless it completely filled with no air to equalize weight's load, it will not maximize the flow toward the clean radiator.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
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kingfa39
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« Reply #10 on: July 11, 2008, 12:51:45 PM »

should work on 8/71 mci or any 8/71, as cheap as it is and the small amout of work involved it sure would be my first move. mine has never ever given me any problem at all after i put the kit in
sorry i was so slow getting back.
Frank allen 4106
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Blacksheep
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« Reply #11 on: July 11, 2008, 01:01:17 PM »

The water pump on my 8v92 was leaking out the weap hole when I first purchased the bus. Leaked on the way home and then for about a month or so in the driveway when running it and then stopping the engine! After about a month or so, it just quit leaking! I even purchased a new water pump and still have it to this day stored in the bay! To this day, the pump doesn't leak. I have never added any sealer's other than distilled water in the radiator! Maybe it was just dry when I bought it and it sealed itself! I don't know but glad it still works! Smiley

BS
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Dallas
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« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2008, 01:10:21 PM »

Yeah, I know that you would like to keep your MCI all MCI, but....

Why in the world of Buggers would you order an engine part from MCI? MCI didn't build your engine, and Detroit Diesel doesn't make the parts for your engine either.. I've rebuilt many many many Detroits... bearings are made by Clevite, Crank shafts are made by Crane, as are the Cams.. Roots Blowers are made by Garrett, Airresearch, or a number of other companies, all of whom sell to suppliers, whether its' a dealer, or an aftermarket place.
Fleet Pride, Napa, online at many places can get you the right part at nearly half the cost as MCI is gonna get you for.

Your engine is NOT and MCI.. it's a Detroit Diesel... it's out of warrantee, it's old! Detroit Diesel is the last place I would go for parts for an antique engine, MCI is the last place I would go for Body/Chassis parts. There are too many rebuilders and even NOS places that will give you a better deal than the dealers.

Geez....

Dallas

Update.  MCI sent the wrong kit but is trying to sort it out. The wrong gear was on the first kit. I am replacing the thermostats etc. at the same time. Looks like no bus this weekend.

Jim
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jhaggerty
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« Reply #13 on: July 11, 2008, 05:40:28 PM »

wow Dallas!

I realize I don't need to get my stuff from MCI. However I don't think that any one from NAPA or any other supplier would be that much more knowledgble than MCI. At my local parts stores , for instance, they can't even look up an oil filter for that engine. If I pay a little more than someone else, I guess that's my problem. I'll just have to live with it.

Sorry,

Jim
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Hartley
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« Reply #14 on: July 11, 2008, 06:06:09 PM »

wow Dallas!

I realize I don't need to get my stuff from MCI. However I don't think that any one from NAPA or any other supplier would be that much more knowledgble than MCI. At my local parts stores , for instance, they can't even look up an oil filter for that engine. If I pay a little more than someone else, I guess that's my problem. I'll just have to live with it.

Sorry,

Jim


Any time you go into a NAPA store, Ask for the TRUCK parts person. You will generally get fluffed-off by a geek behind the counter who only can look up stuff for cars and pickups.

Same goes for ANY auto parts retailers. They will argue that something doesn't exist even if its sitting right in front of them.. If they can't or won't go to the bother then shop elsewhere.

I sometimes look for older "50's / 60's" vintage auto parts places. They look run down and usually will have a REAL BOOK to look in and get the parts you want.

I usually look for a not-so shiny auto parts house for the odd stuff, Either they have them or know where to get them in a day or so. The flashy big-box retailers only do cars and pickups so only have that info on hand.

Dave....
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