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Author Topic: Can't get the 6v92 to shut off!  (Read 4780 times)
Chariotdriver
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« on: August 07, 2008, 05:45:18 PM »


  That is without pulling a wire on the "skinner" valve that powers the shutdown solenoid.
 took it on a trip last night to see some live music in Alabama and when I get there I cannot shut off the bus with the toggle switch up front in the cab.
  I had to go out and pull the wire off the skinner valve to bring it to a halt.
 
 Where should I start looking to see what is amiss here?
 Also got my wife to start driving it on the way back from Alabama to Mississippi and I forgot to tell her to watch the fuel and we ran out 10 miles from home! She says that it is losing
  Had my brother take my truck to fill up the bed tank with diesel and bring it out to us.
 We pulled the fuel filters to fill up and also the top cap on the primary filter housing to top it off.
 Since our generator is getting it's fuel from the primary filter housing we decided to run the generator first to try to pull any fuel up to the housing etc first to try to keep the air out of the lines on the 6v92.
  It cranked right up and it never missed a beat.
  Now we know that 1/4 stands for Empty!
 
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Phil Webb
Pass Christian, MS
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« Reply #1 on: August 07, 2008, 06:11:49 PM »


  That is without pulling a wire on the "skinner" valve that powers the shutdown solenoid.
 took it on a trip last night to see some live music in Alabama and when I get there I cannot shut off the bus with the toggle switch up front in the cab.
 

Any chance you bumped or otherwise switched the rear run switch in the back to rear control?
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Chariotdriver
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« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2008, 03:02:49 AM »


   I have not seen any controls on this bus for rear control, it is a 1983 Eagle 10.
 No toggles that I've noticed back there at all.
 
   It seems that I remember when I left the main toggle upfront in the run position and went to the back to remove the wire from the skinner valve that when I touched it back to the terminal that it would not activate every time. Might be a intermittent valve problem?
 It should switch and have a air release sound each and every time I touch it to the spade as long as the
run switch is in the on position right?
 Thanks.
 Phil
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Phil Webb
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« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2008, 09:26:20 AM »


   I have not seen any controls on this bus for rear control, it is a 1983 Eagle 10.
 No toggles that I've noticed back there at all.
 
  It seems that I remember when I left the main toggle upfront in the run position and went to the back to remove the wire from the skinner valve that when I touched it back to the terminal that it would not activate every time. Might be a intermittent valve problem?
 It should switch and have a air release sound each and every time I touch it to the spade as long as the
run switch is in the on position right?
 Thanks.
 Phil

OK from what little exposure I have with Eagles the rear switch is usually located on the rear bulk head about eye level and almost dead center . But that is not gospel, and you should always consult an expert before following any of my advice! Now as for having "bumped the rear switch into the rear start position". That should not have any effect on shutting it down! Because in order for it to start and run the front switch needs to be on too! Now for the last question. Yes as long as there is air, it should charge or release every time you connect/disconnect it! FWIW Grin  BK  Grin
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« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2008, 09:44:32 AM »

Now as for having "bumped the rear switch into the rear start position". That should not have any effect on shutting it down! Because in order for it to start and run the front switch needs to be on too!

Don't know on Eagles or others, but on my RTS, if the rear switch is in the "Off" position or the "Rear Run" position, the front switch has no effect.  Only if the rear switch is in the "Front Run" position does the front control switch have any effect.
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Chariotdriver
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« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2008, 10:42:27 AM »

Plenty of air so no problem the.air .
I suppose that I should check for power being sent to, or taken
Away each time the master switch is flipped from off to start.
I'll also look for a rear control.

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Phil Webb
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« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2008, 10:53:36 AM »

Plenty of air so no problem the.air .
I suppose that I should check for power being sent to, or taken
Away each time the master switch is flipped from off to start.
I'll also look for a rear control.

Engine stop solenoid should have power in run position and no power in off position.  Jack
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Chariotdriver
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« Reply #7 on: August 08, 2008, 11:22:50 AM »

Plenty of air so no problem the.air .
I suppose that I should check for power being sent to, or taken
Away each time the master switch is flipped from off to start.
I'll also look for a rear control.

Engine stop solenoid should have power in run position and no power in off position.  Jack

Thanks for the info, will look into it.
Phil
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Phil Webb
Pass Christian, MS
Bob Gil
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« Reply #8 on: August 08, 2008, 12:10:11 PM »

OOPs I wired mine the other way did I do real bad?

I have a button to start it and a button to kill it I was not thinking about the solenoid holding it in the run position. 

(But I can only kill it with power and if I lose power it will not die going down the road?)
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Fort Worth, Texas where GOD is so close you don't even need a phone!

1968 GM Bus of unknown model 6V53 engine (aftermarket) converted with house hold items.

Had small engine fire and had no 12 volt system at time of purchase. 
Coach is all 110 w 14KW diesel genrator
compedgemarine
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« Reply #9 on: August 08, 2008, 03:57:49 PM »

most of the model 10 Eagles only have a rear cut off for the starter so it cannot be started from the front when you are working on it. that is the only rear control in the books shown in the diagrams. if it wont shut off with the front switch but does when you pull the wire off the skinner valve then the switch is bad or there is something back feeding into the wire. if you cant figure it out Phil call me and we can go through the diagram and see if we can figure it out.
steve
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Chariotdriver
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« Reply #10 on: August 09, 2008, 04:02:19 AM »

most of the model 10 Eagles only have a rear cut off for the starter so it cannot be started from the front when you are working on it. that is the only rear control in the books shown in the diagrams. if it wont shut off with the front switch but does when you pull the wire off the skinner valve then the switch is bad or there is something back feeding into the wire. if you cant figure it out Phil call me and we can go through the diagram and see if we can figure it out.
steve
Will look into that and if I cannot figure it out I will call,..
 Thanks Phil
 P.S. Will be next week before I get the chance to look at it.
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Phil Webb
Pass Christian, MS
makemineatwostroke
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« Reply #11 on: August 09, 2008, 07:24:50 AM »

Phil you can buy a all in one shut down for the engine from DD where the skinner valve is not needed it has the electric solenoid and the air valve all in one the unit has 2 bolts to attach to the top of the governor housing a air line and a hot wire and you are good to go  it cost about $80 a lot cheaper than a skinner valve if yours is bad   FWIW   

Bob if your unit is the all in one you have it wired correctly it takes power on to kill the engine or you could have the electric only shutdown
« Last Edit: August 09, 2008, 12:16:25 PM by makemineatwostroke » Logged
JackConrad
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« Reply #12 on: August 09, 2008, 09:27:00 AM »

Bob if your unit is the all in one you have it wired correctly it take power on to kill the engine

Is that momentary power on to kill the engine?  Do you use a momentary on switch?  If not, won't this drain the battery when the engine is off?  Jack
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makemineatwostroke
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« Reply #13 on: August 09, 2008, 11:11:52 AM »

Jack it is momentary power if you have a key switch I hook it up to the acc side for killing the engine or use a momentary switch
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Bob Gil
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« Reply #14 on: August 09, 2008, 12:22:53 PM »

What I have is a solenoid that is wired to a push botton like you would use for a starter button.  When you push the button it activates the solenoid and kills the engine.

I did not think of it being wired the other way.  I guess I was wanting to avoid having the draw on the electrical system of it having to be engaged to keep the engine running.

Now that I think of it if I lose 12 power I will not be able to kill it (the other way if you lose power it will die) with out going to the back and turning the gov by hand is that a bad deal? 

I am learning more every time I read another post it seams like.  Hope mine bus is not backward too much from the rest of them. 

I guess that is what happens when a bus keeps changing owners and them redoing things that they don't know much thing about.

Will it be OK the way it is?  It is working for now any way, from the rear.

I was wondering how it had been set up to kill I did not see any way to kill the engine the way I was wiring it and did know what I was going to do until I did it this way.  I am planing on putting a starter button and kill button on the dash area and just use the key to control the power, including the power to the starter button.  Not sure if I should key the power to the kill button or not.  What do you think?
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Fort Worth, Texas where GOD is so close you don't even need a phone!

1968 GM Bus of unknown model 6V53 engine (aftermarket) converted with house hold items.

Had small engine fire and had no 12 volt system at time of purchase. 
Coach is all 110 w 14KW diesel genrator
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