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Author Topic: Can't get the 6v92 to shut off!  (Read 4856 times)
compedgemarine
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« Reply #30 on: October 21, 2008, 07:52:32 PM »

phil
there is no relay upstream. the master switch runs back to the skinner valve and is fed through the normally closed side. the relay opens to shut down the skinner valve if the auto shut down is activated. power is fed to the skinner valve to keep the bus running. power is removed to shut down. if it wont shut down pull the wire on the skinner valve. if it shuts down it is in the wiring. if it keeps running the skinner valve is stuck or the the air valve is stuck. I will be around the house working on mine tommorrow (wendsday) if you need more help just call.
954-270-2628 cell
steve
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Sojourner
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« Reply #31 on: October 21, 2008, 10:01:00 PM »

If the suggesting by compedgemarine is still not the problem, then you may have a froze or binding piston inside of the air cylinder that won't push the shut-down lever. There is a spring to retract the plunger pin. With engine shut-off, remover air line from cylinder to test it with shop air for movement.

If it OK, then check for gap between retracted plunger (no air) pin to shut-down lever. it should not less than 1/32" gap & not more then 1/16" gap. If need to adjust the gap, loosen the lever's clamp bolt to rotate lever to spec.

If it OK, then check solenoid for clicking sound with off & on power to it.

If it OK, then remover air supply line from that solenoid to hear & feel for air coming out good.

Let us know what your finding.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald

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Chariotdriver
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« Reply #32 on: October 22, 2008, 04:39:49 AM »

phil
there is no relay upstream. the master switch runs back to the skinner valve and is fed through the normally closed side. the relay opens to shut down the skinner valve if the auto shut down is activated. power is fed to the skinner valve to keep the bus running. power is removed to shut down. if it wont shut down pull the wire on the skinner valve. if it shuts down it is in the wiring. if it keeps running the skinner valve is stuck or the the air valve is stuck. I will be around the house working on mine tommorrow (wendsday) if you need more help just call.
954-270-2628 cell
steve

    It does shut down when I pull the wire off of the actual skinner valve.
   It also shuts down when I pull the relay out of it's socket.
  It will not shut down when I flip the master switch. Side note to this, the Master switch is not broken internally as i have removed the instrument panel and the wire has been removed to verify that this switch is not in the "locked ON" position.
 I assumed that the skinner relay must have had a "pilot" relay upstream since I thought that the "master" switch could not handle ALL the power that might be required to keep the bus functioning. I guess that it handles a smaller load than I had imagined.
 Phil
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Phil Webb
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Chariotdriver
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« Reply #33 on: October 22, 2008, 05:11:21 AM »

phil
there is no relay upstream. the master switch runs back to the skinner valve and is fed through the normally closed side. the relay opens to shut down the skinner valve if the auto shut down is activated. power is fed to the skinner valve to keep the bus running. power is removed to shut down. if it wont shut down pull the wire on the skinner valve. if it shuts down it is in the wiring. if it keeps running the skinner valve is stuck or the the air valve is stuck. I will be around the house working on mine tommorrow (wendsday) if you need more help just call.
954-270-2628 cell
steve
So if I understand this correctly.
 If it takes power to keep it running, and it keeps running when I turn off the master switch, then the wire leaving the master and terminating at the control side of the relay is somehow getting power where it was not before.
  It seems that it must be a skint wire that is shorted to power as I cannot imagine another way for it to get power when it should was not getting power before.
 
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Phil Webb
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compedgemarine
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« Reply #34 on: October 22, 2008, 07:38:50 AM »

hey Phil
call me on my cell if you can 954-270-2628
steve
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Chariotdriver
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« Reply #35 on: October 26, 2008, 01:39:09 PM »

 Okay,
 I think that Steve got me on the right track as he asked if I had done to the wiring potentially, in that area before I noticed the problem.
 All I had worked on that day was the LED wiring and could not for the life of me remember doing any thing else, until today I looked up at the rear
electrical panel and found out that there was a new jumpe between 71 and 91. Oh, now I remember seeing that bad jumper and decided to replace it with a new one, since I was on a roll and all.
 I go out there today to do some more trouble shooting and was wondering if i plugged it on the correct spade.  I look in the book and see that the jumper is a diode instead of a simple wire.  So I'm thinkning that this might be the problem somehow as when I disconnect the jumper I can shut it down and when reconnected, it will not allow shutdown.
 Finally,so now I need to find out what type of diode it is so that I can replace it with a new one.
Anyone want to take a stab as to what that diode is doing in there?
 Phil
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Phil Webb
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compedgemarine
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« Reply #36 on: October 26, 2008, 03:57:55 PM »

Phil
if not mistaken that is part of the "no charge" circuit for the alternator. it run up to the dash through a resistor, etc, etc. I have yet to find anything that can tell me exactly what any of the multitude of diodes in this thing are. I had some of similar size around here that I replaced a couple of bad ones on mine with and everything seems to work fine. If I can find the number for them I will let you know.
If I had to guess when it was running the alternator was back feeding the system.
now you know why I asked so many questions. LOL.
steve
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JackConrad
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« Reply #37 on: October 26, 2008, 05:30:34 PM »

Our MC-8 uses diodes to prevent the low oil & hot engine circuits from back feeding to the other warning light when activating the automatic engine shutdown. Jack
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