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Author Topic: Where to buy a battery separator?  (Read 2763 times)
belfert
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« on: June 15, 2006, 06:24:51 AM »

I want to get a battery separator for my bus, but I can't find one actually for sale anywhere, except an RV dealer that could order one.  Any ideas where I can get a Sure Power battery separator? 

I don't believe I can use the HVAC selenoid after looking at the wiring diagrams, plus I want the ability to override with a switch in case start batteries are dead.  I don't really want to whip up my own.

Brian Elfert
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busboy
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« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2006, 07:48:26 AM »

I used a battery isolator from Hellroaring Technologies...hellroaring.com...in our  F700 Toterhome and it worked very well. 
These are well known with the Jeep crowd as they have seperate battery packs to run their winches and it would be a bummer to get the Jeep unstuck with the winch and not be able to start the Jeep!
Happy Trails,
Brent
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gumpy
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« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2006, 07:51:16 AM »

Just curious why you came to the conclusion that you can't use the A/C relay?

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Craig Shepard
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FloridaCliff
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« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2006, 07:56:17 AM »

Brian,

Heres what I used:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611756367

Use the 24vdc off the regulator to connect while driving

When parked I can connect to charge the starts from my house charger by flipping a switch on the dash to connect them.

Cliff
« Last Edit: June 15, 2006, 08:12:38 AM by FloridaCracker » Logged

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belfert
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« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2006, 08:09:42 AM »

Just curious why you came to the conclusion that you can't use the A/C relay?

When I look at the electrical schematics, it appears there is some other stuff also coming off that relay and selenoid that would cause problems using it for providing 24 volts to the house power.  I'll have to look at it again.

Briian Elfert
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Don Fairchild
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« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2006, 08:17:22 AM »

Brian;

Cole Hersee carries Battery Isolators up to 250 amp's. Find a napa store that has them or give me a call and I'll get one for you.

Hope this helps

Don
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belfert
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« Reply #6 on: June 15, 2006, 08:18:13 AM »

I used a battery isolator from Hellroaring Technologies...hellroaring.com...in our  F700 Toterhome and it worked very well. 

Battery isolators have the issue of dropping voltage just enough that the house batteries won't charge well.  A battery separator seems to be about the same price as an isolator and has a selenoid to connect things, plus a switch to override for emergency start.  I just can't find more than one place that will even give me a price on a battery seperator.

I was going to do a Xantrex Pathmaker, but Sean Walsh doesn't recommend them and is going to replace his.

Brian Elfert
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Don Fairchild
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« Reply #7 on: June 15, 2006, 08:48:56 AM »

Cole Hersee makes a dual battery selector if that will work for you. It is part # m-750 310 amp continous and 500 amp intermittent 6-36 volt. Four position

Don
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DrivingMissLazy
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« Reply #8 on: June 15, 2006, 10:01:27 AM »

Although isolators have that reputation, I think it is related to where the sensing voltage from the alternator is connected.
I connected my sense lead to the output of my isolator and never had any problems with low voltage.
Richard



Battery isolators have the issue of dropping voltage just enough that the house batteries won't charge well.  
Brian Elfert
« Last Edit: June 15, 2006, 01:48:24 PM by DrivingMissLazy » Logged

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« Reply #9 on: June 15, 2006, 01:42:15 PM »

I know I missed this part but have to ask?

Brian,

What voltage will your house batteries be? 12 or 24 volts?

I am guessing that your bus is 24 volts. So the idea of a battery separator or isolator may need
to be thought out a bit more.

If your house system is 12 volts then there are things that must be considered and done differently.

Like I said I probably missed part of the discussion along the way, things have been fractured and drifting lately
on the BB....
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belfert
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« Reply #10 on: June 15, 2006, 03:10:13 PM »

I know I missed this part but have to ask?

Brian,

What voltage will your house batteries be? 12 or 24 volts?

I am guessing that your bus is 24 volts. So the idea of a battery separator or isolator may need
to be thought out a bit more.

If your house system is 12 volts then there are things that must be considered and done differently.

The house system is 24 volts with a 24 volt inverter and a Vanner for 12 volt loads.

Brian Elfert
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belfert
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« Reply #11 on: June 15, 2006, 08:07:52 PM »

I looked over the schematics again.  It looks like I could maybe tap off the master control selenoid.  I'll have to have my father look at it again to be sure the master selenoid is only active with the alternator running. 

There is a 2/0 cable coming off the master selenoid to the A/C relay.  I can't use the A/C relay as it is only active when the A/C - heat switch is turned on.  The A/C relay also powers the fans for the driver's heat.  The rest of the heating - A/C system is gone so the 1/0 cable coming off the A/C relay doesn't do anything now.

Brian Elfert
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TomC
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« Reply #12 on: June 15, 2006, 08:55:28 PM »

Considering most have the Delco 50DN alternator, mine is 300 amps at 12v, so I couldn't find a separator that would work without being really expensive.  What I used was 2-150 amp continuous duty solenoids strapped together.  I have a 0n-off-on toggle with one side being activated by the ignition and the other side running off the deep cycle batteries.  Then if one or the other banks are dead, I can still activate the solenoid to get the dead batteries charged.  I have had this happen both ways.  Make sure you use a continuous duty solenoid.  Even though these look like the old Ford starting solenoid, it is specially made to continuous specs.  And I know it is since I've left it activated sometimes for a few weeks on end (oops!).  Cost maybe $150.00 to make.  Good Luck, TomC
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