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Author Topic: black smoke  (Read 3109 times)
cody
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« Reply #15 on: August 12, 2008, 11:00:16 AM »

Sounds like I'm in for an enjoyable time, I'll pull the valve cover and see what size injectors I have so I'll know what a/r I'll need, I'm thinking I was told the injectors were 65's but Im not sure of it.  The bus is a 1981 model10.
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JackConrad
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« Reply #16 on: August 12, 2008, 11:03:10 AM »

Cody,
    Have you checked for any leaks on the "cold" side of the turbo? Even if turbo is compressing, if the pressure is leaking, you would not get much boost.  Jack
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makemineatwostroke
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« Reply #17 on: August 12, 2008, 11:06:39 AM »

Thanks Cody I thought it was 1985 model the coach engine for 1981 had a TV7101 and do as Don suggests the TV7511 will work better for you
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Dallas
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« Reply #18 on: August 12, 2008, 11:11:03 AM »

Cody,
Can you get in there to pull the whole turbo? I think there are 2 clamps, 4 bolts and an oil line, (typical setup). Then you can probably get more information from it.

You've been given some good information here, I would go with checking out the turbo for rubbing and damage. It does sound like you got a piece of debris in there and damaged the impellars and /or the bearing and seal.

From what I remember of looking at your engine last year, removing the turbo is going to be the easiest way to do any checking.

The other thing I would be concerned about is that silly cat converter. It's possible that when you lost the clamp, enough soot was forced down the line to plug it. This would cause excessive EGT, back pressure and loe power, not letting the turbo spin up to full power and thus causing excessive fuel with not enough air.

Good Luck,

Dallas
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cody
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« Reply #19 on: August 12, 2008, 11:26:06 AM »

I think we can safely rule out a plugged cat converter, I just shined a flashlight into it and there is nothing there lol, the cat converter is about 18 inches long, I can see clear into the muffler from the bumper lol.
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luvrbus
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« Reply #20 on: August 12, 2008, 11:31:04 AM »

Cody: 1 thing I found out the hard way if going to buy parts for that engine from a DD dealer know what to ask for because when they run the serial number you get parts for the engine when it came from Detroit Diesel new
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ojgetaway32
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« Reply #21 on: August 12, 2008, 11:34:21 AM »

Cody,

Are you still in Ohio?  I am on the West Virginia border on I-70.  Maybe I could help.

Josh
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Josh Miller, Attorney, hockey player, son, brother, friend and busnut...
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cody
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« Reply #22 on: August 12, 2008, 11:38:46 AM »

We're back in northern Michigan now.
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ojgetaway32
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« Reply #23 on: August 12, 2008, 11:42:11 AM »

Okay, I am glad you are home safe.  If you are ever over her and run into trouble, email me and I will do all I can.
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Josh Miller, Attorney, hockey player, son, brother, friend and busnut...
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« Reply #24 on: August 12, 2008, 11:47:21 AM »

Cody,
    Have you checked for any leaks on the "cold" side of the turbo? Even if turbo is compressing, if the pressure is leaking, you would not get much boost.  Jack

Cody Jack is very right here. As well as all the others. But if you'll recall during my recent TURBO dilemma, even after putting on a new high performance turbo it still sucked! (Literally) Partly because the air filter was plugged from excessive oil and etc. And because it was sucking/blowing the hoses off! Once corrected it runs like a scalded greyhound um dawg! Better than it ever has since we've owned it!

Don is by far the man to answer the best performing turbo # for your application.

I had a Detroit Dealer tell me, the turbo we put on was the wrong one. (we bought a Borg Warner higher performance instead of the stock Garret) But when I questioned them about it and was fixing to call "Diesel Power" in Paducah where I bought ours, they quickly changed their mind that it was indeed an "ok" replacement for the stock one.

I'll see what it is #727 has on it as I'm leaning toward a Borg Warner replacement on it also! Grin  BK  Grin
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quantum500
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« Reply #25 on: August 12, 2008, 03:25:48 PM »

These guys are about the best in the biz http://www.blaylock-turbo.com/
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buswarrior
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« Reply #26 on: August 12, 2008, 08:55:24 PM »

I'm a big fan of keep it simple.

I'm with Jack. You'd best be absolutely, positively sure that all your pipes/clamps, exhaust and fresh sides, are all sound and your turbo pressure, hot or cold, isn't pissing overboard.

You were fine before the pipes came apart...the pipes came apart, and never right since.... I'd still blame the pipes before more complicated things.

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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TomC
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« Reply #27 on: August 12, 2008, 09:09:49 PM »

You may have carboned up the turbo to the point that it just doesn't want to spin up anymore.  Without boost, you get black smoke and no power.  Need to replace the turbo.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
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« Reply #28 on: August 12, 2008, 10:04:32 PM »

Ahh, maybe I'm a little late to this, but have you opened up the compressor side and hand turned the wheel. Should turn free, with a (very) small bit of axial play.
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bobofthenorth
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« Reply #29 on: August 13, 2008, 02:43:35 PM »

I guess the turbo could have swallowed something when the clamp broke but I'm with Buswarrior.  If it was working fine before that then I'd suspect a leak until somebody convinces me otherwise.
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