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Author Topic: Roof coating  (Read 3061 times)
junkman42
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« on: August 13, 2008, 07:21:46 AM »

I want to coat the center panel on the top of My MC7.  Does anyone have a suggestion such as cool seal etc.  I want it to be white and a sealant.  When custom coach did this unit they chould have done a far betster job on the roof.  Add looking at the roof when You go to buy a coach to the inspection list.   
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« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2008, 10:46:44 AM »

I used Kool Seal on mine with good results.

TOM
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« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2008, 10:52:40 AM »

I just did mine with Kool Seal.  I used something else in the past on my last bus, but I found that Kool Seal seams to be the only one that actually recommends it for use on motorhomes.  I have found these coatings to be extremely durable, reflective, and excellent sealants.  Kool Seal says to use two coats.  I had so much of the 5 gallon can left, I called their tech support and asked about doing a third coat.  They told me it was unnecessary.  They said that it should last this way for 10 years.  I will hit it again before that though.  I also coat the AC covers when doing the roof.   It stops the sun from eating them up too.
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« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2008, 10:54:23 AM »

I bought mine roof seal at Home Depot, white and elastomeric , been five years now. Wink It needs another coat to whiten it up, but other than that I'm very pleased with the three coat results. Going to do that after the paint.  Wink

Paul
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« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2008, 07:30:07 PM »

I just did mine with Kool Seal.  I used something else in the past on my last bus, but I found that Kool Seal seams to be the only one that actually recommends it for use on motorhomes.  I have found these coatings to be extremely durable, reflective, and excellent sealants.  Kool Seal says to use two coats.  I had so much of the 5 gallon can left, I called their tech support and asked about doing a third coat.  They told me it was unnecessary.  They said that it should last this way for 10 years.  I will hit it again before that though.  I also coat the AC covers when doing the roof.   It stops the sun from eating them up too.

Diddo. I did everything up there except the skylights and satellite dome Grin Lots more left after two coats than I thought there should be. Worried for a while that I didn't put it on thick enough, but sure looks good.
Will
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junkman42
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« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2008, 08:11:15 PM »

What method did You guys use to apply the cool seal?  Brush or roller or something else.  Thanks John
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Lin
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« Reply #6 on: August 13, 2008, 09:25:49 PM »

We used a roller.  They recommend using a 3/4" one.  I forget the coverage per gallon and think we were a bit light on the first coat, but looked fine after the second coat.
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« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2008, 09:56:08 PM »

When I used Kool Seal, it chalked off something terrible in the rain.

I switched to BusKote, and haven't had any problems with it chalking.

HTH

Jay
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« Reply #8 on: August 14, 2008, 02:33:49 AM »

I used a roller for rough surfaces. Don't remember the size but 3/4" sounds about right. The first coat was light but 2nd and 3rd covered pretty good.

Paul
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junkman42
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« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2008, 07:59:58 AM »

Tom Cat, where does one find buskote?  Thanks, John
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« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2008, 10:47:41 AM »

Here ya go John.

http://www.hytechsales.com/prod2150.html

Although I intended to use the clear coat over the top of the BusKote, and still have a gallon sitting on the shelf in my shop, I don't feel it's 100% necessary.

The difference between before and after was nothing short of amazing.

HTH

Jay
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« Reply #11 on: August 15, 2008, 08:39:03 PM »

What method did You guys use to apply the cool seal?  Brush or roller or something else.  Thanks John
I was going to mask off the sides with painters tape and roll it, but because I have a lip right at the gutter line, I was able to freee hand with a brush along the top edge and under the air horns as well as around the skylights and dome. Then a 3/4" nap roller from front to rear. Almost painted myself into a corner Shocked long way down if you finish on the opposite side from the ladder  Roll Eyes
Good luck, Will
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« Reply #12 on: August 15, 2008, 08:41:51 PM »

Jay, Thanks for posting that link.   If your coach was a dark color would you recommend the top (clear) coat?
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JohnEd
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« Reply #13 on: August 17, 2008, 10:34:58 PM »

Guys,

Please don't hate me....please.  I have used that Kolkote stuff for years.  I started using it when I built a replacement roof on my 73 Winnie.  That roof is curved and ribbed and has 3/8 ply as a surface.  I bought the kool Kote stuff for a "new roof".  It consisted of a dark elastomeric (sic) coating that was rubberlike when it set up.  A few coats of that on the wood and then a wet coat and I laid a fabric the length of the roof and it took 3 panels.  That fabric then got a few more coats of black rubber and when that set I applied the white Kool Kote/ Snow Coat.  That was back in 93 and the stuff has held up perfectly.  One glitch is that you need to reapply the Snow Kote every couple years.  In Orygun the rain and climate serves to create a really serious mildew problem.  The mildew has to be removed with a scrub brush and a lot of elbow grease.  A real pain in the ...er...elbow.  I am happy with the engineering of the product though.

I have heard stories about the insulating properties of this stuff and the glass beads for quite some time.  I even called some mfr reps and asked about the insulation props and was treated to some outrageous spiels.  Things went quiet when I asked for an "R" number that I could hang my hat on.  I don't think these thousandth of an inch coatings have any R value you would want to repeat....truly.  They can't, actually.  The reduction in heat transfer is due to the white color and all the suns energy it reflects.  Not insulation.  I would prefer to spray my roof with white automotive grade white synthetic enamel and skip the mildew and semi annual repaint if I had a metal roof.  BRIGHT pure white, of course.

I needed something that would expand and contract with the wood roof and I would use that product again in a heart beat for the purpose of a water tight seal that "moves and doesn't crack.  I have 3.5 inches of polyisocy. foil backed board in my roof and a 2 inch thick regular foam sheet and 3/4(total) layer of wood.  I have no heat transfer problem of any sort and the white roof adds to the perfect solution.  Expecting that paint to "insulate" my roof would be foolish....I think.  I can't imagine a Knut not having insulation built into his overhead and roof under side and that would be the real insulation.

My original roof failure was due to the PO applying silver roof paint that cracked and leaked and my not having a clue as to how to maintain an RV.  I am still only semi smart and still semi tough only in spots.

Well, for what its worth,


John
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junkman42
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« Reply #14 on: August 18, 2008, 06:31:15 AM »

If You use masking tape can it be removed after the buskote drys or do You have to remove while the coating is wet?  I noticed that the spray in bed liner people use a tape with a wire in it that sort of cuts the edge when removed.  I only want to do this once unless it goes like most of My projects.  John
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Lin
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« Reply #15 on: August 18, 2008, 06:42:56 AM »

JohnEd

My last bus did develop some roof leakage.  I believed it to be from a seam.  I used the Kool Kote and that took care of it.  I think that the normal torquing and twisting of going down the road can cause some seams to leak.  Although not as rainy as Oregon, I had the bus parked for a while under some oaks in central coast California.  It did not get any sunlight and did grow some mildew.  A pressure wash took care of that.  When the bus was not covered by trees, there was no mildew.  Generally, I have felt it lived up to its claims and was certainly easy to use.  I even had one of my daughters do the re-coat once as my Father's Day present.
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« Reply #16 on: August 18, 2008, 11:09:00 AM »

Lin,

My heartburn is with the products being sold as "insulation". I don't think they are that any more than the foil on foam board is.  And the foil certainly does add to the performance of the foam.

I re coated my roof regularly and that returned it to "bright white" condition.  In the between years I used bleach and tide and a scrub brush on a long mop handle.  That worked well but it was never bright "sun reflecting white" till I painted it again.  The stuff makes a great "sealer coat" cause it is flexable.  I thought the bus roofs were sealed at the seams when they were built.  I think I would try to use seam sealer on the joints, if I had a problem with leaks, and then go with auto paint.  Good for 15 years with only a little scrub annually.  On the other hand, that single coat of Snow Kote is sure tempting and even more so if I could find a teenager to apply the followup coats. Roll Eyes

I never washed my roof with a pressure washer because I am afraid that the water would get under the paint and lift it or bubble it.  Mine is a rood system though and that happening to me would be a tragedy. Angry

Nice to talk with you about this, Smiley

John

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« Reply #17 on: August 18, 2008, 12:40:31 PM »

John,

I would not use a pressure washer at full blast with a concentrated spray--just a fan pattern at just enough pressure to chase the crud away.  I have a friend that decided to pressure wash his house before painting.  He used it at high power with a concentrated spray.  He ended up with serious gouging on three of the sides before he realized he could fan the spray.  I agree with you.  I do not put much faith is the insulation value of the stuff, but it is a great sealer and a job that can be cheaply delegated.  A handyman just did mine for $12. an hour.  This was the first time using the product on this bus, so he had to put an hour into prep work like removing chipping paint.  The total was about $36. at about an hour per coat.  This freed me up to able to go and break something important.
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Dreamscape
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« Reply #18 on: August 18, 2008, 06:33:42 PM »

Have any of you guys covered the rounded part of your roof with auto paint over the elastomeric coating?

Paul
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JohnEd
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« Reply #19 on: August 18, 2008, 07:02:40 PM »

Paul,

Just my hunch but I don't think you can use a rigid paint on top of a flexable base.  It seems to me the paint would crack.

Would be nice if I were wrong on this, though.

John
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« Reply #20 on: August 18, 2008, 07:47:06 PM »

There is an elastomer  you can add to the paint to make it flexible.  They use it for plastic bumpers and such that have to flex on the car.  That should solve any cracking problems.

Frank
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« Reply #21 on: August 19, 2008, 03:19:52 AM »

Paul,

Just my hunch but I don't think you can use a rigid paint on top of a flexable base.  It seems to me the paint would crack.

Would be nice if I were wrong on this, though.

John
There is an elastomer  you can add to the paint to make it flexible.  They use it for plastic bumpers and such that have to flex on the car.  That should solve any cracking problems.

Frank

JohnEd,

Those were my thoughts too, that's the reason for the question. Thanks!

Frank,

That is an interesting concept, I will look into it.

Thanks,

Paul

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« Reply #22 on: August 19, 2008, 11:14:40 PM »

Frank,

The parts of cars that I would expect to have those elastomers in the paint seem to go dull in a few years.  At least they don't seem to hold up as well as the rest of the car.  The exception is my 93 Lexus SC400 which proves that they have made a car that will outlast luggage.  Maybe it has to do with initial quality.  My 95 T Bird has dull and pealing bumpers.  Thanks for reminding me that that stuff was around.

John
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The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
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« Reply #23 on: August 20, 2008, 04:46:06 PM »

What about the paint on a Saturn, The door panels are plastic you can push in with your hand and they pop back out. I have never seen one them get dull.
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« Reply #24 on: August 20, 2008, 06:44:31 PM »

To reply about method of application, let me add that if I recall, kool seal instructions recommended the 1st coat to be applied N-S and the 2nd coat to be applied E-W. When I did my Eagle, I used the webbing material on my seams and it never leaked again! Some light chalking but usually the bus needed washing anyway by then!
Ace
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« Reply #25 on: August 20, 2008, 07:09:45 PM »

To reply about method of application, let me add that if I recall, kool seal instructions recommended the 1st coat to be applied N-S and the 2nd coat to be applied E-W. When I did my Eagle, I used the webbing material on my seams and it never leaked again! Some light chalking but usually the bus needed washing anyway by then!
Ace

Is n't a hassle to turn the bus sideways in the driveway just to apply a coat of sealant?  Grin  BK  Grin
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« Reply #26 on: August 20, 2008, 07:17:10 PM »

Ace,

When I did my roof the "webbing" cloth(4 ft wide) was put down with a black rubber stuff that dried very smooth.  The instructions said that it was a tight seal and very strong.  They cautioned that it was NOT UV resistant in any way and that the white stuff had to be applied to reflect the suns energy AND protect the latex rubber from rapid deterioration.  I guess there must be a number of coatings out there but that stuff I used is 13 or 14 years old and showing no sign of surrender to the onslaught of the elements.  Mine chalks some each year but soap and water cleans it up nicely.

Thanks for your input,

John
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"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”
—Pla
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