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Author Topic: Generator exhaust  (Read 6638 times)
Lin
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« on: August 14, 2008, 06:04:37 PM »

I am redoing my generator exhaust.  Before it just ended under the bus.  I was not sure of its safety and did not use it while parked until I bought a CO sensor.  It did show that CO was getting inside.  I used the generator on the road though with no problem.  Anyway, I am running a pipe out the side.  My idea is to let it poke out on the side just below the generator radiator.  My thought is that, as the exhaust is expelled, it will rise and be blown away by the wind coming from the radiator.  Does that make sense to you?  Also, how far should the exhaust pipe extend beyond the side of the bus?
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Ednj
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« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2008, 08:09:13 PM »

I ran mine back just in front of the drive tires.
This will allow a stack and still have access to all the bay doors.
see picture = 1 is generator 1 is proheat.
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MCI-9
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white-eagle
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« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2008, 08:11:49 PM »

my genset pipe extends about 5 inches beyond the bus.  i also have one of those attachement stacks to get the exhaust, and noise to the top of the bus.  we mount it over the pipe, then strap it to a couple screws on the side of the bus.  all of the exhaust and most of the noise to the sky instead of your neighbor.
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Tom
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« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2008, 08:35:56 PM »

Mine also runs out through a hole in the expanded metal door gen door. This works fine underway and while we are awake, but I don't trust it enough to sleep while it is running.

I eventually plan to rig a rooftop level exhaust extension with an elbow attachment at the present end of the pipe like the above post.
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PD4107-152
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Lin
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« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2008, 08:42:32 PM »

Well, I went ahead with it after consulting the experts in the chat room.  I cut the pipe about between 4 and 5 inches out.  I figured I could always reduce it later if I wanted. 

Ed, I like the picture of the way yours looks, especially since it does not interfere with the bay door.  I did not really consider that, but I wanted to go the shortest route anyway for now.  Although I have not tried it yet, I believe my extension will leave the door usable anyway.  I'll check that tomorrow and maybe take a picture.  The most important thing is that I let the generator run for awhile and the CO sensor stayed on zero.

Is it alright to use a hard connection to the end of the pipe for support or should there be a little rubber in there to limit vibrations?  It does not seem to vibrate much anyway.
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« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2008, 08:31:32 PM »

Lin,

Mine doesn't stick out but about two inches. I did this because it is long enough to attach an extension but mostly because I didn' want to peel off the skin on my shins. That exhaust end is wicked.

Depending on how long the whole exhaust pipe is it doesn't need rubber for vibration as long as it is attached to the gen and vibrates along with it.

If the pipe is pretty long it needs a flexible hanger to allow for expansion of the pipe length when hot.
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JackConrad
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« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2008, 06:48:30 AM »

Does your generator have a short flexible section of exhaust to absorb vibration?  Ours has one about 16-18" long that attaches to the exhaust manifold. The exhaust pipe attaches to the other end of this flexible section. We used hangers with the rubber sections because our exhaust runs about 18' before going through the muffler and exiting  rom under the bus on the driver's side in front of drive axle.
  As was mentioned, we only have our exhaust sticking out about 2-3". I hates banged up or burned shins.  Jack
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« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2008, 07:43:05 AM »

Well, I went ahead with it after consulting the experts in the chat room.  I cut the pipe about between 4 and 5 inches out.  I figured I could always reduce it later if I wanted. 

Ed, I like the picture of the way yours looks, especially since it does not interfere with the bay door.  I did not really consider that, but I wanted to go the shortest route anyway for now.  Although I have not tried it yet, I believe my extension will leave the door usable anyway.  I'll check that tomorrow and maybe take a picture.  The most important thing is that I let the generator run for awhile and the CO sensor stayed on zero.

Is it alright to use a hard connection to the end of the pipe for support or should there be a little rubber in there to limit vibrations?  It does not seem to vibrate much anyway.

EXPERTS? CHATROOM? ARE WE TALKING ABOUT THE SAME CHAT ROOM? The one here on this board? OH shoot HOLY CRAP you'd hurry up and undue that exhaust before your better half flushes the toilet, it'll be smokin' fer sure! I know most off those guys that hang in this chat room, and they probably told ya to hook it to the "exhaust vent" for the toilet! LOL!  Grin  BK  Grin
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
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luvrbus
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« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2008, 08:00:20 AM »

Lin, I come out the side from my unit which is in the 1st bay my exhaust is by the rear bogie(13ft) on my Eagle I just swing mine up to what looks like a gate lock, install the burn protection (chrome expaned metal from a truck) on the pipe like killing 2 birds with 1 stone.If you have window awnings watch out for that not fun to redo when a awning is where you need to go up
« Last Edit: August 17, 2008, 08:24:00 AM by luvrbus » Logged
Dallas
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« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2008, 10:53:49 AM »

Well, I went ahead with it after consulting the experts in the chat room.  I cut the pipe about between 4 and 5 inches out.  I figured I could always reduce it later if I wanted. 

Ed, I like the picture of the way yours looks, especially since it does not interfere with the bay door.  I did not really consider that, but I wanted to go the shortest route anyway for now.  Although I have not tried it yet, I believe my extension will leave the door usable anyway.  I'll check that tomorrow and maybe take a picture.  The most important thing is that I let the generator run for awhile and the CO sensor stayed on zero.

Is it alright to use a hard connection to the end of the pipe for support or should there be a little rubber in there to limit vibrations?  It does not seem to vibrate much anyway.

EXPERTS? CHATROOM? ARE WE TALKING ABOUT THE SAME CHAT ROOM? The one here on this board? OH shoot HOLY CRAP you'd hurry up and undue that exhaust before your better half flushes the toilet, it'll be smokin' fer sure! I know most off those guys that hang in this chat room, and they probably told ya to hook it to the "exhaust vent" for the toilet! LOL!  Grin  BK  Grin

Aw, Bryce, we were only funnin' him! and besides, we wanted to see if the heat from the exhaust would get rid of the gas from the waste tank.

Oh, and we did tell him to put a water tight rain cap on it for whenhe's parked or goin' down the road!

-DF
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Lin
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« Reply #10 on: August 17, 2008, 11:23:57 AM »

Actually, I knew a mechanical engineer that was basically employed full time for a while doing things to a guys motorhome.  One of the things they did was build a system that fed the black water into or onto the exhaust while traveling down the road.  He claimed it worked well except for creating some buzz on the CB from truckers he passed.
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JohnEd
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« Reply #11 on: August 17, 2008, 11:48:34 AM »

Lin,

I am a little surprised that more folks didn't chime in to reinforce Jack Conrads "suggestion" that you include a piece of FLEX exhaust pipe in your design.  My pipe did fine until I lengthened the pipe and put on a bigger and heavier muffler.  By adding weight to the ex plumbing I reduced the pipes ability to "follow" the genny.  So they flexed at the manifold connection.  The result was that the pipe developed a hairline crack at the manifold joining.  It didn't hiss or make any other audible noise and I was clueless that it was pumping CO into the gen compartment.  I still don't know how it got from there to the interior but it DID.  One of the engine ex pipes on the rear of the DD is flex and it only travels a few feet and is hefty round.  Without that flex it would eventually crack, I have not a shred of doubt.  All the pipe on a auto/truck system is hung with rubber.  Noise is one purpose but metal fatigue and cracking is another.  I think tort law has had a great influence on this cause you only have to kill a few hundred family members and guys like me sitting on a jury will  make sure a manufacturer learns the lesson and even rubber mounts his butt.

My advice:  Flex pipe at the manifold pipe joining (ala Jack).  Rubber hangers for the pipe.  Vert pipe extension to roof height. CO sensor inside the coach.

Wishing you a safe journey,

John
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Lin
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« Reply #12 on: August 17, 2008, 12:13:48 PM »

Just when I thought I had it all sewn up!  Well, it does not look like it will be so difficult to add some flex.  Here's the pictures.  The hose can be used to get to the roof or just away on the ground.  A three inch hose may be a bit large, but I already had a couple.  Note though that the muffler is resting on a plate on the bay floor and can move a bit in all directions.
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Dreamscape
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« Reply #13 on: August 17, 2008, 01:44:00 PM »

Lin,

How hot do your exhaust gases get?

I would be concerned using the hose. What type of hose is it?

Just a thought.

Paul
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Lin
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« Reply #14 on: August 17, 2008, 01:53:03 PM »

It is exhaust hose that is used in shops when working on vehicles indoors.  I originally bought them when I had my other bus inside.  I used them if I wanted to run the bus or the generator.  They work fine.  It's similar to this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Crushproof-Tubing-Garage-Exhaust-Hose-Vent-3-x-11_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ63700QQihZ018QQitemZ280213779745QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
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