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Author Topic: Generator exhaust  (Read 6610 times)
kyle4501
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« Reply #45 on: August 20, 2008, 07:43:56 PM »

I made an exhaust stack for Dad's motorhome tonight.
First attempt was 2" aluminized exhaust pipe from the local muffler shop & a long radius sweep elbow (EMT?) slipped over the generator exhaust. Dang thing was heavy.  Sad  We welded a hook on the top to fit into a bracket added at the roof line. This pulls in air at the bottom, but not enough & as a result, the stack temp was over 250F.

Plan B:
Use 2 down spouts, a 2x3 inside a 3x4. Outside temps never got over 110F.  Grin   
But the dadgum thing made more noise than was tolerable outside the coach.  Sad

Looks like I'll be trying some more things as time allows. . . .
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« Reply #46 on: August 20, 2008, 08:13:51 PM »

Re. detector placement;
If I might offer a suggestion as a former fire investigator.  I think you will find this suggestion is consistent with the directives found in U.L. listings and National Fire Protection Association guidelines.  Using smoke detectors as the example, what the instructions advise in general terms, is that the detector can be placed on the ceiling, but should be spaced a minimum of about a hand width from the wall.  If the detector is secured to a wall, it should bw spaced about a hand width, or the width of your palm, from the ceiling.  The reason for the spacing is that there is a dead air space near the intersection of the ceiling and wall, where the smoke cannot effectively displace the air.  As a result, the smoke detector would have a delayed alarm time.  If the detector is placed where smoke can naturally drift to it without having to be forced into a tight corner, or being influenced by air flow from a duct that supplies fresh air from somewhere in the coach, then you will have the earliest alarm possible.  I hope that helps.  Also, there is nothing wrong with doubling up on detectors.  The idea is to follow the manufacturers guidelines and to avoid false alarms from cooking or steam (depending on the type of detector).  Alarm devices need to be trustworthy.  False alarms from misplaced or inappropriate detectors lessens credibility, resulting in batteries being removed.  As a result, you're left without this important protection.  Remember, we're not talking about weiner roast smoke here; the synthetic materials in our homes and buses will kill you before it will wake you up!  The names of the gases produced in a home or bus fire have an alphabet in their names.  I know I have gone off on somewhat of a tangent here when the original discussion was concerned with CO detectors, but I feel strongly about the info here, and the same principal applies to any detector; follow the instructions carefully.  May we all stay safe!

Dennis

   
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