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Author Topic: Bus Getting Polished  (Read 4843 times)
captain ron
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« on: August 14, 2008, 08:12:53 PM »

A guy started polishing my bus late today. Had to stop for rain but still was able to get from front of door through second bay before it got too dark. He's doing it for $350.00 but would have done it cheaper, that's what I offered him. Also learned a trick for getting rid of finger prints or just touching up. Use flower on a wax applicator, it will polish then it will just fall off after it dries. I'll post pictures after he's done.
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Ednj
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« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2008, 08:19:03 PM »

When I had mine done they wiped the whole bus with flour after polishing.
never put wax on it after its polished.
next time you clean it use Rain-x you wont beleive how well it works.
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captain ron
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« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2008, 07:59:10 PM »

Well bus is all polished now I'm doing some painting. Should have some pictures by Wed. or Thu. It's looking awsome. It's amazing how much you can improve the looks of your bus for so little.
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« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2008, 04:31:09 PM »

CD, I don't want to rush you, but HURRY UP WITH THOSE PICTURES!!!! (please) Grin
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Le Mirage
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« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2008, 06:47:51 AM »

CD, I don't want to rush you, but HURRY UP WITH THOSE PICTURES!!!! (please) Grin

I'm agree with you. I am in the process since many days (between rainy day) and I have a problem with the buffer. It's very heavy for me...After only 1 hour...I'm very tired! My arms shake all the time... Roll Eyes

What kind, the buffer, do you use?
« Last Edit: August 20, 2008, 06:49:26 AM by Le Mirage » Logged

Gaėtan & Manon (french canadian)
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« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2008, 12:35:56 PM »

Le M,

I use a Mikita variable speed to apply and buff the paint.  Doing vertical surfaces is easier for me than the horizontal ones.  The "trick" is to contact the vert surface with the side of the buffer wheel that "lifts" the buffer.  It just kinda floats in front of me.  It is a real time and energy saver if to have someone to smear the wax on in front of you.  You get some wet wax in a spot and just buff it all around till it is dry and like a mirror.  I use McGuire's products exclusively....great stuff.  Cleaner wax or wax.  Use the rubber sanding disc backplate and a thick natural lamb skin wool pad.  One pad would last you three or four bus polishes.  I have four pads and I change them every job and run them through the washer.  If you use a "polishing" compound you need to was the pad before you use it for waxing.  There is a tool that is called a Pad Spur and it is used every 10 minutes or so to "clean" and fluff the wool as it packs down and gets smooth and will scorch your paint.  These things are sold at a autobody "supplier" store.  Yellow pages or net.

The Mikita is also a sander/grinder so it is a good multi tool.

Let me know how you do,

John
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Le Mirage
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« Reply #6 on: August 21, 2008, 01:34:28 PM »

OK John, I noted your procedure. Tonight, I will take a pics of my buffer, disk and "wax" for polishing.

My buffer Makita has not a variable speed. Only one speed. I think that it turn too fast. The job is good but not perfect. I'll take a pic for the post....

So, I will be on the road tomorrow for 2 weeks...but I will come back soon...

Thanks John...
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Gaėtan & Manon (french canadian)
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luvrbus
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« Reply #7 on: August 21, 2008, 01:40:40 PM »

La Mirage I watched Rich when he was IBP do a demo on stainless and one important thing he said was to have a buffer that would turn over 2500 rpm
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Le Mirage
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« Reply #8 on: August 21, 2008, 01:55:20 PM »

La Mirage I watched Rich when he was IBP do a demo on stainless and one important thing he said was to have a buffer that would turn over 2500 rpm

I have the same buffer at job (I think). It's a Makita, model GA 7910, 6000 tr/min.

That's ok for polishing?
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Gaėtan & Manon (french canadian)
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http://latchodromquebec.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-fin-du-voyage.html

Le Mirage
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« Reply #9 on: August 22, 2008, 05:17:03 AM »

Here's pics and job in progress...


http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/6861/polissagedustainlesst20fn7.th.jpg[/img][/URL]
« Last Edit: August 22, 2008, 05:26:13 AM by Le Mirage » Logged

Gaėtan & Manon (french canadian)
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http://latchodromquebec.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-fin-du-voyage.html

Brian Diehl
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« Reply #10 on: August 22, 2008, 07:31:33 AM »

Looking great!  Keep up the good work and you will have a gleaming bus in no time!
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JackConrad
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« Reply #11 on: August 22, 2008, 07:36:36 AM »

Now, where did I put those sunglasses!  Jack
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Le Mirage
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« Reply #12 on: August 22, 2008, 07:39:46 AM »

Thanks!

Other question. How do you remove the paint? With "removing solution" (?) or a pad with a buffer? I want to remove all the paint, to buff like a miror the stainless and then to put the "color's stripe". The only paint will be between the window. All lower part of windows will be in stainless with stripes. But, removing paint is the big job with remover solution...skin after skin...and beer after beer too Grin

« Last Edit: August 22, 2008, 07:46:40 AM by Le Mirage » Logged

Gaėtan & Manon (french canadian)
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http://latchodromquebec.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-fin-du-voyage.html

buswarrior
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« Reply #13 on: August 22, 2008, 04:44:47 PM »

Is the recommendation for the buffer to be faster than a certain speed or SLOWER?

The buffer I can't find from long ago was slower than a grinder, IIRC?

Gotta get this right or there will be burned siding...

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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Dallas
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« Reply #14 on: August 22, 2008, 05:00:57 PM »

I never buffed Stainless before, but I have spent many an hour buffing Aluminum and paint...

Our buffers were in the 400-600 rpm range.

BTW... I have no interest in buffing anything anymore, if anyone would like to do our silver sides, I will be happy to supply the beer and the potato chips while I watch you.
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