Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
November 29, 2014, 01:39:03 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: If you had an Online Subscription: It takes up much less space in your bus.
   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: 1 2 3 [All]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Bus Getting Polished  (Read 4975 times)
captain ron
Guest

« on: August 14, 2008, 08:12:53 PM »

A guy started polishing my bus late today. Had to stop for rain but still was able to get from front of door through second bay before it got too dark. He's doing it for $350.00 but would have done it cheaper, that's what I offered him. Also learned a trick for getting rid of finger prints or just touching up. Use flower on a wax applicator, it will polish then it will just fall off after it dries. I'll post pictures after he's done.
Logged
Ednj
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 997


Ed & Sue Skiba




Ignore
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2008, 08:19:03 PM »

When I had mine done they wiped the whole bus with flour after polishing.
never put wax on it after its polished.
next time you clean it use Rain-x you wont beleive how well it works.
Logged

MCI-9
Sussex county, Delaware.
See my picture's at= http://groups.yahoo.com/group/busshellconverters/
That's Not Oil Dripping under my Bus, It's Sweat from all that Horsepower.
----- This space for rent. -----
captain ron
Guest

« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2008, 07:59:10 PM »

Well bus is all polished now I'm doing some painting. Should have some pictures by Wed. or Thu. It's looking awsome. It's amazing how much you can improve the looks of your bus for so little.
Logged
PP
Will & Wife
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1063



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2008, 04:31:09 PM »

CD, I don't want to rush you, but HURRY UP WITH THOSE PICTURES!!!! (please) Grin
Logged

Le Mirage
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 185


Le Mirage XL 1987




Ignore
« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2008, 06:47:51 AM »

CD, I don't want to rush you, but HURRY UP WITH THOSE PICTURES!!!! (please) Grin

I'm agree with you. I am in the process since many days (between rainy day) and I have a problem with the buffer. It's very heavy for me...After only 1 hour...I'm very tired! My arms shake all the time... Roll Eyes

What kind, the buffer, do you use?
« Last Edit: August 20, 2008, 06:49:26 AM by Le Mirage » Logged

Gatan & Manon (french canadian)
Prevost, Le Mirage XL, 1987
Quebec, Canada

http://latchodromquebec.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-fin-du-voyage.html

JohnEd
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4571




Ignore
« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2008, 12:35:56 PM »

Le M,

I use a Mikita variable speed to apply and buff the paint.  Doing vertical surfaces is easier for me than the horizontal ones.  The "trick" is to contact the vert surface with the side of the buffer wheel that "lifts" the buffer.  It just kinda floats in front of me.  It is a real time and energy saver if to have someone to smear the wax on in front of you.  You get some wet wax in a spot and just buff it all around till it is dry and like a mirror.  I use McGuire's products exclusively....great stuff.  Cleaner wax or wax.  Use the rubber sanding disc backplate and a thick natural lamb skin wool pad.  One pad would last you three or four bus polishes.  I have four pads and I change them every job and run them through the washer.  If you use a "polishing" compound you need to was the pad before you use it for waxing.  There is a tool that is called a Pad Spur and it is used every 10 minutes or so to "clean" and fluff the wool as it packs down and gets smooth and will scorch your paint.  These things are sold at a autobody "supplier" store.  Yellow pages or net.

The Mikita is also a sander/grinder so it is a good multi tool.

Let me know how you do,

John
Logged

"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.
Pla
Le Mirage
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 185


Le Mirage XL 1987




Ignore
« Reply #6 on: August 21, 2008, 01:34:28 PM »

OK John, I noted your procedure. Tonight, I will take a pics of my buffer, disk and "wax" for polishing.

My buffer Makita has not a variable speed. Only one speed. I think that it turn too fast. The job is good but not perfect. I'll take a pic for the post....

So, I will be on the road tomorrow for 2 weeks...but I will come back soon...

Thanks John...
Logged

Gatan & Manon (french canadian)
Prevost, Le Mirage XL, 1987
Quebec, Canada

http://latchodromquebec.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-fin-du-voyage.html

luvrbus
Guest

« Reply #7 on: August 21, 2008, 01:40:40 PM »

La Mirage I watched Rich when he was IBP do a demo on stainless and one important thing he said was to have a buffer that would turn over 2500 rpm
Logged
Le Mirage
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 185


Le Mirage XL 1987




Ignore
« Reply #8 on: August 21, 2008, 01:55:20 PM »

La Mirage I watched Rich when he was IBP do a demo on stainless and one important thing he said was to have a buffer that would turn over 2500 rpm

I have the same buffer at job (I think). It's a Makita, model GA 7910, 6000 tr/min.

That's ok for polishing?
Logged

Gatan & Manon (french canadian)
Prevost, Le Mirage XL, 1987
Quebec, Canada

http://latchodromquebec.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-fin-du-voyage.html

Le Mirage
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 185


Le Mirage XL 1987




Ignore
« Reply #9 on: August 22, 2008, 05:17:03 AM »

Here's pics and job in progress...


http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/6861/polissagedustainlesst20fn7.th.jpg[/img][/URL]
« Last Edit: August 22, 2008, 05:26:13 AM by Le Mirage » Logged

Gatan & Manon (french canadian)
Prevost, Le Mirage XL, 1987
Quebec, Canada

http://latchodromquebec.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-fin-du-voyage.html

Brian Diehl
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 986




Ignore
« Reply #10 on: August 22, 2008, 07:31:33 AM »

Looking great!  Keep up the good work and you will have a gleaming bus in no time!
Logged
JackConrad
Orange Blossom Special II
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4447


73' MC-8 8V71/HT740 Southwest Florida


WWW
« Reply #11 on: August 22, 2008, 07:36:36 AM »

Now, where did I put those sunglasses!  Jack
Logged

Growing Older Is Mandatory, Growing Up Is Optional
Arcadia, Florida, When we are home
http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/OBS-JC/
Le Mirage
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 185


Le Mirage XL 1987




Ignore
« Reply #12 on: August 22, 2008, 07:39:46 AM »

Thanks!

Other question. How do you remove the paint? With "removing solution" (?) or a pad with a buffer? I want to remove all the paint, to buff like a miror the stainless and then to put the "color's stripe". The only paint will be between the window. All lower part of windows will be in stainless with stripes. But, removing paint is the big job with remover solution...skin after skin...and beer after beer too Grin

« Last Edit: August 22, 2008, 07:46:40 AM by Le Mirage » Logged

Gatan & Manon (french canadian)
Prevost, Le Mirage XL, 1987
Quebec, Canada

http://latchodromquebec.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-fin-du-voyage.html

buswarrior
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3571


'75 MC8 8V71 HT740




Ignore
« Reply #13 on: August 22, 2008, 04:44:47 PM »

Is the recommendation for the buffer to be faster than a certain speed or SLOWER?

The buffer I can't find from long ago was slower than a grinder, IIRC?

Gotta get this right or there will be burned siding...

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Logged

Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
Dallas
Guest

« Reply #14 on: August 22, 2008, 05:00:57 PM »

I never buffed Stainless before, but I have spent many an hour buffing Aluminum and paint...

Our buffers were in the 400-600 rpm range.

BTW... I have no interest in buffing anything anymore, if anyone would like to do our silver sides, I will be happy to supply the beer and the potato chips while I watch you.
Logged
Dreamscape
Guest

« Reply #15 on: August 22, 2008, 05:04:59 PM »

I never buffed Stainless before, but I have spent many an hour buffing Aluminum and paint...

Our buffers were in the 400-600 rpm range.

BTW... I have no interest in buffing anything anymore, if anyone would like to do our silver sides, I will be happy to supply the beer and the potato chips while I watch you.

You're too kind Dallas!  Grin

What an offer for SOMEONE ELSE!

Paul
Logged
bubbaqgal
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1487




Ignore
« Reply #16 on: August 22, 2008, 05:21:46 PM »

Dallas forgot to mentino that we will take pictures and also applaud (very loudly) at the appropriate times.
Logged

Faith is not believing that God can, It's knowing that God will.
HighTechRedneck
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2935


BCM Editor


WWW
« Reply #17 on: August 22, 2008, 10:34:10 PM »

Is the recommendation for the buffer to be faster than a certain speed or SLOWER?

The buffer I can't find from long ago was slower than a grinder, IIRC?

Gotta get this right or there will be burned siding...

happy coaching!
buswarrior


According to Fred Hobe's site, 2500rpm buffer for Stainless Steel.

http://users.cwnet.com/~thall/fredhobe.htm  (about 1/3 of the way down the page, read both above and below the photos)
Logged
bobofthenorth
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2097



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #18 on: August 23, 2008, 12:35:28 AM »

I dunno from nuttin about this and I don't intend to do any buffing in the near future (or distant future for that matter) but I think it would be surface speed that would matter and that would vary with RPM and wheel diameter.
Logged

R.J.(Bob) Evans
1981 Prevost 8-92, 10 spd
My website
Our weblog
Simply growing older is not the same as living.
Dreamscape
Guest

« Reply #19 on: August 23, 2008, 01:05:38 AM »

I dunno from nuttin about this and I don't intend to do any buffing in the near future (or distant future for that matter) but I think it would be surface speed that would matter and that would vary with RPM and wheel diameter.


And how much pressure you put on the buffing wheel.

Paul
Logged
Hi yo silver
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 818




Ignore
« Reply #20 on: August 24, 2008, 08:36:13 PM »

Wow, what a difference!   Er, what kind of beer??...No, wait! Forget I asked that! 

Dennis
Logged

Blue Ridge Mountains of VA   Hi Yo Silver! MC9
regener8
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 8




Ignore
« Reply #21 on: August 24, 2008, 08:59:25 PM »

Pictures look great....wondering what materials you are using in the polishing to get the job done?

Logged
van
Guest

« Reply #22 on: August 24, 2008, 09:40:51 PM »

Paul,use moderate pressure but the key here is to keep moving as to not over heat the surface and distress the SS

        Van
Logged
Le Mirage
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 185


Le Mirage XL 1987




Ignore
« Reply #23 on: October 02, 2008, 05:47:44 AM »

Ouah Guys...I bought a Simoniz buffer. The job is better with this tool. The next week, I will put some pics. Actually, my coach is in my garage and the light is no good for pic. This week-end, I go to Quebec city and I will take a few pics...in the sun ( I hope, actually it's raining)

So, after buffing, how do you clean the job (stainless)? With dry pad or with soap and water?

I'm very happy, and excited, the result of my "new brightly coach"!

In waiting...(in outside, that will be better...)
« Last Edit: October 02, 2008, 05:54:03 AM by Le Mirage » Logged

Gatan & Manon (french canadian)
Prevost, Le Mirage XL, 1987
Quebec, Canada

http://latchodromquebec.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-fin-du-voyage.html

PP
Will & Wife
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1063



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #24 on: October 02, 2008, 01:20:57 PM »

Thanks for the pics. I'm still working on mine between showers. I finished the painted surfaces earlier this summer, but am having a hard time finding the time to work on the stainless Cheesy. After 2 fried polishers, a bodyman suggested I work it by hand with 1000 grit first and then stick compound and then metal polish. I almost have the nose finished and WOW, what a difference. It almost (not quite) looks like chrome. From a distance of 10 feet or more it really shines. Whoops, rain stopped, gotta get back to it. Will
Logged

Le Mirage
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 185


Le Mirage XL 1987




Ignore
« Reply #25 on: October 03, 2008, 06:44:15 AM »

...After 2 fried polishers, a bodyman suggested I work it by hand with 1000 grit first and then stick compound and then metal polish. I almost have the nose finished and WOW, what a difference. It almost (not quite) looks like chrome. From a distance of 10 feet or more it really shines.
If I understand, you polish with a sand paper grade 1000? After that, you polish with the polisher and "wax"?
The coach's bumper are scratched and I have much difficulty to give a good finish (perfectly). The scratch are still visible...
Logged

Gatan & Manon (french canadian)
Prevost, Le Mirage XL, 1987
Quebec, Canada

http://latchodromquebec.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-fin-du-voyage.html

PP
Will & Wife
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1063



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #26 on: October 03, 2008, 04:26:23 PM »

Le, I'm really a novice at this, just too dumb to hire someone else (wife thinks I need the exercise Cry) but it really depends on the depth of the scratches. If they're minor, you can get away with a rubbing compound and then a good metal polish. If they're deeper than that, you might want to wet sand with a 1000 or finer grade of paper, and then work up to a stick compound. (a wax with different grades of emery in it). Nothing worthwhile comes easy, just ask the wife  Grin Grin Or, wait a while longer and someone with more knowledge will pipe up here,  Wink
Logged

JohnEd
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4571




Ignore
« Reply #27 on: October 03, 2008, 06:31:09 PM »

Le M,

The pros do it dofferent than us cause they have all the various materials and tools.  So be it!  The process is that you "cut" the work down with the most course abrasive that is needed.  You incrementally work all the scratches out with progresively finer abrasives.  I do this on my headlight clear plastic and it comes out like new.  I use 5 different grits and start at 400 wet and dry, stop paper at 1000 and then do polishing compound and finally wax.  Adding a wet with 3000 would improve the process and give me a better outcome but I am happy.  The same is true with SS as the "kit" for smooth SS consists of 3 different grit "bars".  That doesn address scratches...that needs different process.

My Makita runs at 2000 for paint but I have a really good feel.  It is so very easy to "scorch" the paint and ruin it.  I don't think you can discolor SS so the faster the better.  Your pic is of a Mak. GRINDER.  That is probably best for bringing SS back up to luster.

There is a comment about Rain-X being a super way to finish.

I would think that my Mak buffer/grinder with the variable speed would be the ideal tool for mauintenace of both the SS and the paint.  Use a wool pad as I talked about earlier.  Nothing better or faster for maint.

HTH,

John
Logged

"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.
Pla
Hobie
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 228




Ignore
« Reply #28 on: October 03, 2008, 07:18:09 PM »

Don't use too much compound.  If your pad is wet, you are using too much.  And keep it clean using a 'church key' or something sharp on the pad.  Careful so you you don't get your shirt or pant leg entangled in the wheel!
Logged
Ednj
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 997


Ed & Sue Skiba




Ignore
« Reply #29 on: October 04, 2008, 08:41:01 AM »

Some times I think you guys are watching me.
I just repolished my coach a few weeks ago for the Diesel Truck Nationals at Englishtown NJ.
This is the third time for my bus.
First time I did this myself, I used the brown, green and white Jewelers Rouge with yellow and white Buffing Wheels that I bought from Berubes on a black&decker 2400-rpm automotive polisher.
This is not the hobby shop rouges these are the big bars.
I finished the passenger side with all three cuts when the polisher burned up.

I bought a Bosch 7 angle Grinder to finish the job, which did not work out, too fast and to hard to control.
I brought the bus to a polisher behind a truck stop and paid to have the whole bus polished.

This time I bought a Chicago 7 variable speed polisher/sander 200-3377 rpm at HF to do the job.
I only used the Green and white Rouge with a white wheel, flour and rain-x.

This is a dirty nasty job that takes along time to do and there are no short cuts.
Do not smoke, use open flame burners or any other source of ignition in a fume or dust laden atmosphere. People often forget about dust explosions.
There are different oils and greases in the rouges so if you use rags and throw them in the same garbage it will ignite.

Never use wax. It makes it look hazy.
 Remove buff lines with flour, talc or sodium bicarbonate.
 Remove surplus polishes from seams, pit marks or awkward to get at places with flour.
 Mist your final buffing with a light misting of water and buff it again. This seals both metals and polishes and helps reduce water stains from rain and condensation

I hear this also works on Glass so Im going to try on my windshields.







White Jeweler's Rouge
An extremely dry grade of compound made with ultra-fine, soft abrasive powders. Produces a clear, brilliant, mirror-like finish on chromium, stainless, carbon steel, brass and aluminum.
Green Jeweler's Rouge
A very dry compound made with green chromium oxide powder. Used in the jewelry trade for extremely fine color buffing jobs on all classes of metals. To a mirror bright finish and to remove light "metal fuzz" or lap lines without disturbing the essential dimensions of the work.
Logged

MCI-9
Sussex county, Delaware.
See my picture's at= http://groups.yahoo.com/group/busshellconverters/
That's Not Oil Dripping under my Bus, It's Sweat from all that Horsepower.
----- This space for rent. -----
Le Mirage
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 185


Le Mirage XL 1987




Ignore
« Reply #30 on: October 06, 2008, 07:46:55 AM »

Thank you guys

I look for that and I'll come back...with pics!
Logged

Gatan & Manon (french canadian)
Prevost, Le Mirage XL, 1987
Quebec, Canada

http://latchodromquebec.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-fin-du-voyage.html

luvrbus
Guest

« Reply #31 on: October 06, 2008, 08:10:59 AM »

La Mirage, buy some 3M fastcut 3000 from a autobody supplier will cut your work in 1/2 and will remove the scratches without burning, great for polishing stainless friends of mine use it on their Prevosts XL and always have a mirror shine but always use a foam pad with it   

good luck
Logged
Pages: 1 2 3 [All]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!