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Author Topic: STRANDED IN NASHVILLE NEED BLEEDER VALVES  (Read 4509 times)
Kwajdiver
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« Reply #15 on: September 08, 2008, 07:14:03 PM »

Is it an automatic bleed off value or one that you pull to manually drain Huh??

Has he said what type of bus?

Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
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V-6-92 Detroit, Allison 5 spd auto
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luvrbus
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« Reply #16 on: September 08, 2008, 07:15:58 PM »

He needs to stop at a truck dealer and buy 2 manual for 20 bucks each and replace the automatics but reading his post sounds like he has manuals already,he maybe talking about the relay if air will build up when the brakes are applied
« Last Edit: September 08, 2008, 07:43:56 PM by luvrbus » Logged
Blacksheep
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« Reply #17 on: September 08, 2008, 08:30:06 PM »

You can call John Spellings at Busforsale.com

(615) 859-1998

He has a service center on site for repairs and such!

He would probably be you closest repair center that knows buses and is located just outside Nashville in Goodlettsville!

Ace
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RTS/Daytona
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« Reply #18 on: September 08, 2008, 08:38:37 PM »

does the valve look like this manual pull air tank bleed valve

see--> http://www.truck-autoparts.com/china-Other-brake-valve/products-DRAIN-VALVE-737.html

if so - just unscrew it and go to an ace hardware or lowes and get a plug for now

Pete RTS/Daytona
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ilyafish
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« Reply #19 on: September 08, 2008, 08:45:52 PM »

hey guys,

it is a manual pull valves are fine now. the problem is this, under neither the drive side of our bus (1981 MCI MC9) toward the back there is a little rubber diaphragm about 2 or 3 inches big that is leaking air. When i press the brake it stop leaking, but the more pressure that builds up the hard i have to press the brake. I can only get it up to about 90 PSI. Im standing by thanks guys you re all life savers.

Peach
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #20 on: September 09, 2008, 03:39:25 AM »

Hi Peach,

That diaphram sounds like an air regulator. They are available at any NAPA store. I replaced one on my coach a year ago and keep one as a spare.

If you can remove it and bring it with you to a NAPA store, they can match you up with another. The new ones should be plastic. I paid about $35 for mine.

Hope you don't miss anymore gig's
Nick-
« Last Edit: September 09, 2008, 03:43:29 AM by Nick Badame Refrig. Co. » Logged

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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
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« Reply #21 on: September 09, 2008, 05:09:04 AM »

Hi Peach,

Does it look like this?  "Bendix relay valve"

Nick-
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HighTechRedneck
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« Reply #22 on: September 09, 2008, 07:45:17 AM »

Peach, as many have pointed out, the repair could quite possibly be done yourself.  But safety is the big issue.  It is not like a pickup truck where you can safely crawl under if you can fit.  If you go under the bus and the air goes down, you are dead and significantly thinner.  If you do it yourself you will need a 12-20 ton hydraulic jack and blocks to block it up.  Never go under with just the jack.  Jacks can fail and then you are back to the thin and dead situation.

Given your circumstances, I suggest trying Ace's (Blacksheep) suggestion.  John may or may not be able to come to you, but at least he would have good personal knowledge of what mobile repair places can be trusted and be the best value.  With any mobile repair operation, you will be paying more for the conveneince though.  They have higher overhead involved for the mobility and you are paying for their travel time both ways either directly (charged as part of the labor time) or indirectly (higher rate for while they are with you).

If you have towing coverage, you may consider having it towed to John's shop.  Even though it sounds like you can move it, since the brakes are being affected, you can't move it safely in traffic.
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« Reply #23 on: September 09, 2008, 03:53:29 PM »

hey guys,

what a waist of a day the mechanics from the pilot (if you want to call them that) worked on  it for about 3 hours. replaced the foot brake valve. still wasn't building up pressure, in fact its build up 0 psi apposed to the old one that was building up 35 psi. so $500 for nothing.

For here they said a wrecker to tow up would be $300 and a big head ache due to us have a trailer. we are thinking road side assistance. anyone know anyone in Dickson TN area?? Embarrassed

p.s. nick that wasn't the part they replaced thanks for taking time to help! that goes to everyone.

peach
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OneLapper
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« Reply #24 on: September 09, 2008, 03:59:42 PM »

Peach, can you post a picture or email one of us a picture of the part that's leaking air?  Maybe one of us can identify it for you.

Why did you pay the shop if they didn't fix it?  Time to talk to the manager and get loud.  Sounds like they're just swapping parts.
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OneLapper
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« Reply #25 on: September 09, 2008, 04:08:33 PM »

here is a picture that looks very similar. on the bottom of that out foot valve there is a bigger thinner rubber piece.  but thats what is leaking air.



its called a foot vavle

thanks guys
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Own: 1981 MCI MC9 w/
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Sammy
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« Reply #26 on: September 09, 2008, 04:26:51 PM »

You can try these folks if you want. I got info from my Bus garage Index and am NOT affiliated with them or know anything about them - just what my book says.


A-1 Diesel
Hendersonville, Tn (15 miles from Nashville)
888-824-4230
After hours: 615-824-0433
Shop phone - 615-824-4230 or 615-822-2302.
They seem to cover all the bases, as per what's in the book.
Familiar with Eagle,GMC,MCI,Prevost,Setra,Vanhool

Good Luck
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luvrbus
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« Reply #27 on: September 09, 2008, 04:38:15 PM »

Try the EagleNest in Nashville 1-615-242-7241 speak with Mark they work on all makes of buses   

good luck
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #28 on: September 09, 2008, 04:56:37 PM »

I wonder how far he is from BK's?

Nick-
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bubbaqgal
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« Reply #29 on: September 09, 2008, 05:02:31 PM »

BK is in Texas
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