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| One
Hose Leads To Another
Smokin on the Road by Michael Kadletz I left Long Beach with a full tank of fuel. The oil was fine and all systems were go! The first 150 miles were great, and I was ready to cover some blacktop. I had just made the turn off in Barstow, CA from Interstate 15 (heading for Laughlin) to Interstate 40 when I past the sign that said Next services 105 miles. Boy, I thought to myself, I would hate to breakdown on this stretch of road. Well, fifty miles onto this highway, my luck changed. I noticed huge amounts of smoke billowing out the rear of the bus. I checked my gauges, good oil pressure, good water temperature. Whats going on? I pulled over, left the bus running and walked to the rear of the coach. By this time, two truck drivers had pulled over, and one of them was running toward me with a fire extinguisher, ready to spray. I opened the tailgate, and all that could be seen was a huge cloud of smoke. I then ran forward and shut off the engine. Still smoke was billowing. Not from the exhaust, but from the entire engine area, yet there was no fire. After a few minutes, the smoke started thinning and I could see my Detroit Diesel. It was cleaner than normal, which in itself was a shock. Then I started looking closer, and spotted my problem. Someone had installed a 3/8 copper fuel line with a flare fitting running from my fuel pump to the fuel filters. It had cracked at the flare fitting coming out of the fuel pump. Fuel was being sprayed all over my engine compartment at 40 PSI from the fuel pump, and was being aided by the air movement of the fan blade. Fuel was everywhere. Dripping from my tailgate, running on the ground and of course, all over my exhaust system which was creating the smoke. The only nice thing to see was how clean the fuel made my engine appear! Well, there I sat, 50 miles from nowhere, outside of a cell phone area, no copper tube, and no flaring tool. What to do? While I was thinking about my dilemma, I looked over the bus to see what I might be able to use to make something work. Fifteen minutes later it came to me! The propane line coming off the 3-way refrigerator has 3/8 copper tube with a flared end. I checked to make sure my propane was off, then removed the line from the refrigerator, and broke off the tube six inches down from the flair. In order to get the fitting off the fuel pump, I had to remove the water hose from the water pump to the radiator. Thus, I lost half the water in the system, but I was able to replace the old cracked copper line with the one I borrowed off the refrigerator. I used my needle nose pliers to break off the old fuel line, and then used the same pliers to make the holes somewhat round again. Now I needed to connect the new six-inch copper line together to the longer one leading to the fuel filters. To accomplish this, I went to my water tanks and found by breather tube to be 1/2 ID clear plastic hose. I cut four inches off the top, borrowed four hose clamps from other hoses off the water system, slid the hose and clamps over the two copper tubes, and tightened down the clamps. Because the hose was 1/2 ID, there was a lot of loose tube to be dealt with. I tightened it as tight as I could, and placed two clamps on each end of the hose. It worked! Although it still leaked a little bit from the large tube going down to the smaller copper tube size, it held enough to get me to Laughlin, where I made the proper repair. And about the water I lost from the radiator. The coach I was in had an outside shower plumbed from the fresh water tank to the back of the bus where the recessed shower hose and fixture were installed. I simply placed the showerhead into the radiator fill and turned on the shower. In minutes, the radiator was full again and I was back on the road. Looking back to what caused the problem to begin with was two-fold. First the fuel line should have been made out of more flexible hose. But the problem was created mainly by my shifting the transmission. The shifter was hanging up between second and third gear. When I manually shifted into third, the engine would jump hard and kick the bus into third gear. This jumping of the engine, I believe, is what cracked the line. Out of Fuel by Bruce D. Ole Ohlson I had been working for the Green Tortoise, a bus-based adventure travel organization, for almost a year when I was assigned to drive the weekly schedule between San Francisco and Los Angeles. It was a transportation run rather than one of the Tortoises famous adventure trips. We went south on Friday night and returned north on Sunday night. This was my second or third L.A. run. John, my co-driver, was newly hired and had never been on the run. While in LA, we were faced with finding something to do for the whole weekend. Not to worry. We decided to go visit my brother who lived in Pomona, rather than follow company policy and park the bus at Venice Beach. Once there, we collected him and his kids and went out to the flea market. On our way back to Venice Beach on Sunday, we stopped at a few yard sales. All in all, about 150 extra miles rolled under the tires. Our bus for the trip was a GM PD 4106. The model was built between 1961 and 1965; this one was a 1962. It came stock with a powerful 71-series Detroit Diesel V-8, a 140-gallon fuel tank, and no fuel gauge. It never occurred to me that those few extra miles would consume enough fuel to jeopardize our making it to King City, our scheduled refueling stop, but thats just what happened. John was behind the wheel as we climbed through the Gaviota Tunnel on Highway 101. Just as we entered the tunnel, the bus began hesitating, and losing power. He knew what was happening, but he kept the hammer down until we were safely out of the tunnel, and he found a reasonably safe place to pull over. In addition to the fuel tank being out of fuel, we had run the engine out of fuel, too, and lost the prime. The Detroit Diesel engine is not self-priming. When run out of fuel, it must be manually primed before it will start and run. The manufacturer recommends, of course, that you never run it out of fuel. If you do, they also recommend that you add a minimum of 10 gallons of fuel to the tank before priming the engine and starting it. Because of that recommendation, each Green Tortoise carried as standard equipment two 5-gallon Jerry cans. Fortunately, both were full of fuel that night. Unfortunately, I did not have a priming pump. We had a big box of spare parts in one of the bus luggage bays, and I had a big box of tools with me including a handful of brass fittings and several feet of automobile gas line, but no priming pump. It was on my list of tools to buy; I just hadnt gotten around to purchasing one yet. I hate it when that happens. We poured most of fuel into the tank and cranked the engine for a while. Neither of us figured it would start, but we crossed our fingers and gave it a go. Nothing. Now its time to seriously open the second drawer of the tool box, John quipped. We unscrewed the spin-on fuel filters and looked in. Each was almost empty. We filled them with fuel, reinstalled them, and cranked the engine for a while. Nothing. The problem, of course, was that the fuel lines and the passages in the heads were empty, too. We pulled the fuel filters again. The secondary was only half full, so we topped it up. For some reason, the primary was still mostly full. John had a brilliant idea. Let pull the fuel lines, fill them with fuel, and reinstall them. I readily agreed; I did not want to call a service truck. We didnt have a funnel, so we used the coffeepot to pour the fuel. Since it was my fault that we ran out of fuel, I willingly got dirty. I disconnected the upper end of each flexible line and dumped in some fuel. That engine compartment was cramped. I spilled as much fuel as I got into the lines. John was supportive but was only half teasing me when he said, This fiasco is going to cost both of us our jobs. When I was done, we crossed our fingers and cranked the engine for a while. Nothing. Weve got to force some fuel into the heads to drive the air out, I said. I recalled that at one of the bull sessions around the kitchen table at Tortoise Towers, one of the other drivers had speculated that one should be able to force fuel into the heads by blowing into the hole where you connect the priming pump. The air you push in will displace the fuel in the secondary fuel filter and push it into the heads and fill the injectors, he had claimed. Just dont blow so long that you empty out the secondary, was his caveat. I removed the 1/8-inch pipe plug in the casting to which the secondary filter was screwed and gave it a try. I wrapped my lips around that hole and blewhard and long. He had claimed that it would work, if your lungs were strong enough. It turned out that my lungs werent strong enough. Eventually I gave up. John declined to try. He did, however, volunteer to crank the engine while I had my mouth over the hole. I rejected his kind offer of assistance. Later, around the kitchen table again, a different mechanic said this tactic had failed because I had left the restriction fitting plumbed into the system. You should have disconnected the return line where it went into the firewall and unscrewed the restriction fitting, he said. Then it should have worked. The muscles of the human rib cage can only put out a couple of inches of water column of pressure, John mused, thinking out loud. And we need a couple of pounds. How can we get that? I was getting discouraged. Wed already wasted over an hour. Maybe Id have to call a service truck after all. I walked a ways up the road in front of the bus to take a little break and think over the situation. A one-gallon antifreeze jug was lying on the shoulder. I kicked it once, and then stood on it when I walked up to where it had skidded. Thats it! I said. We can fill this jug with fuel, plumb it into the fitting where we are supposed to connect the priming pump, and squeeze. I raced back to the rear of the bus. John wasnt convinced, but I talked him into trying. If we try this and it doesnt work, will we be any worse off? With the awl on Johns Swiss Army Knife, we laboriously drilled a hole in the cap of the antifreeze bottle and then enlarged it with a rattail file. We screwed one of my small hose barb to pipe threads fittings into this hole. I cut a gasket from a piece of inner tube, liberally spread Permatex on both sides of it, and pressed it into the cap. I stuffed in a couple of flat washers to take up the slack, then cross-threaded a nut onto the pipe threads to pull the fitting tightly into the cap and make a seal. All we have to do now is fill the antifreeze bottle with fuel, plumb it to the priming fitting, and squeeze the bottle, I said. John was dubious. How are we going to squeeze that bottle holding it over our heads? he wanted to know. Our hands arent strong enough, and the hose isnt long enough for us to be able to put the bottle on the engine compartment door and stand on it. Yeah, I agreed. Besides, if we stood on the engine compartment door, wed probably break it off. What we need is a big C-clamp. Or a gigantic pair of pliers. John walked off into the underbrush and came back with a couple of three-foot-long tree branches. We made the pliers by wiring the branches together. First, we tried the classic pliers-configuration with the joint in the middle, but found it more successful to wire the tips of the sticks together like a wishbone and squeeze with the bottle in the middle. The contraption worked! We topped-up of the filters and then spent 15 minutes pumping our remaining priming fuel into the engine. It started right up. YES! We were over three hours late getting into San Francisco. I had rehearsed my explanation and was ready to take full responsibility for what had occurred, but neither of us was disciplined.Oh, My Aching Leg! by Pat OConner, Belding, MI After a few months of driving my 4106, 4-speed converted bus, holding the clutch in at stops proved to be pretty painful on my left leg. To cure this problem I installed a 1-1/2 inch air cylinder in the compartment below the drivers feet. It has a six inch stroke, and takes a minimum of 90 P.S.I. to disengage the clutch. Then I welded a piece of 3/8 flat stock onto the clutch lever which is connected to a clevise on the cylinder rod end. The bottom has a four bolt foot that the cylinder can swivel on. This is a two way cylinder that is actually used as a one way cylinder. The shaft port is used as the intake port. The bottom port is just left open for the air to exhaust. The clutch return springs pulls the cylinder back open. I engaged the cylinder with a 12 volt solenoid. I used the one from my fast idle which I no longer was using, or you can purchase a new one. Air supply is taken from the air tank in the same compartment as the cylinder. Since the clutch is directly related to shifting, I mounted a two-speed axle switch on the shifter. Although this will completely disengage the clutch I would not recommend leaving the transmission in gear and leaving the drivers seat with the engine running. The Cylinder and Solenoid can be purchased at Grainger for less than $90. You can use any switch you like. Heres to your left leg! |
Bus At 7,000 Feet & No BrakesAlmost
Hammerin' It Home My name is Jim and after five years of driving a class A diesel my dream of becoming a bus conversion owner finally came true. I have taken early retirement and didnt want to wait to convert a bus so I bought one that was close enough to what we wanted in layout (wife) and in our price range (me). We found our conversion near Winnipeg, Canada, by searching Internet sites for over a year. The big day arrived and we picked up our raised roof 78 Western Flyer 6V92TA V730 that was converted in 1998. The 50 mile test drive is o.k. so off we start for Oregon to get plates, visit my brother and his family and return to Michigan. While starting up in Oregon one day I only heard a click when I turned the key to start. Well, must be bad batteries, I guess. This shouldnt be a problem since I have a genset. I start the genset and put the fast charger in start mode and hit the keyvaroom. However, the voltmeter doesnt show the batteries to be charging. I turn the key off and restart, okay, puzzling, if the batteries are okay. Then why did putting the charger in the fast charge start mode work? I call the previous owner and he hasnt ever had that problem and doesnt have any suggestions. We continue on our journey and a couple of stops later the same click is heard. Click, click, click, the batteries do not show to be low on voltmeter. I start the generator, charger to fast start mode, and varoom. I decide that the starter solenoid must be sticking or dragging with 12 volts but when I turn on the charger the battery voltage goes to about 14.5 volts and this increase must be enough to engage the starter solenoid. Great road fix, Ill just replace the starter when we get home. This trick works each time we have that problem except on the last day from home. We stop at a truck stop for diesel and cant leave. Click, click, click. I wait about half an hour hoping that it will cool down and work but it still wont engage. Fortunately for us the truck stop is not busy and no one needs this lane. The only thing left to do is call aI really hate to say the M word, mechanic. Luckily, his shop is just behind the truck stop, smart huh, and he ambles over in about 45 minutes. He says, I called all of my suppliers and cant get you a starter for four days. You really should get rid of this antique and get something with an engine thats still being made. Long pause as I wait for my wife to start screaming but then he says, I know that you want to get home, so Ill get you started but dont turn it off till youre home. When I yell, turn the key. He yelled and, varoom. What he did was hit the starter with a big rubber mallet when I turned the key. This jarred the solenoid enough to make it engage. So theres two ways to get started if your solenoid sticks, one with a genset and charger, and one with a big hammer. We had many other adventures along the way on our first trip in the new, to us, bus conversion, but thats another story. See you down the road. Out of Fuel? by Stan Chambers It was a beautiful, late November afternoon, heading eastbound on toll road 80-90 just west of Angola, Indiana, in our 1981 MCI 9 conversion. My wife Karen and I were coming home from our daughters in south Texas when all of a sudden it felt like a wall of wind hit us, and the bus lost all power. I immediately checked the gauges; they all seemed to be okay, and just as suddenly as it quit, the power came back. Scratching my head I continued, when the power cut out again, this time lasting even longer before the power was restored. I knew I wasnt out of fuel, even though my bus does not have a fuel gauge yet. I had dipped the day before and felt this was not the reason. I pulled over, telling Karen it feels like were running out of fuel, as the power completely shut down. My years as a farmer have taught me that diesel engines are not fun to start if they run out of fuel. After dipping the fuel tank, I was stunned to find out that we were, in fact, out of fuel. How could I be so stupid? Obviously I should have dipped the fuel tank before we left Elkhart, Indiana, and not have assumed we could go two days without refueling. After walking 300 yards to the nearest house some very nice people let me use their phon., There I was able to contact AAA road service. Back at the bus a toll road service truck stopped, telling Karen he would be back with five gallons of fuel. In the meantime, AAA arrives with fourteen gallons of fuel and along with the five gallons of fuel the toll road service provided, I tried to start it. The engine briefly started, but then quit, all the while I was running the batteries down. The AAA man thought he could jump a 24-volt system with his 12-volt truck, but wasnt too sure. I asked if his truck had switching relays like some trucks do for a 24-volt start on a 12-volt system, but again he was not sure. I suggested we use the toll road service truck batteries as well and connect both trucks to my battery bank to get the needed 24 volts (one truck to each battery), but it still wouldnt start. Finally, I removed the fuel line after the fuel pump and before the secondary filter and sucked on the line until I got fuel. Then I quickly attached it and tried the starte. Nothing. I again removed the line and sucked on the fuel line, noticing that it takes a while to get fuelthinking it should be right therehaving just been drawing on it. I quickly reattached the line and tried again. Nothing. Again I repeated the process, but the fuel seemed like it was further away than it should have been. Suddenly it occured to me what was happening. I knew the filters were full and I was drawing the fuel up after the fuel pump so it would be primed. I figured the pump must be losing its prime while I was reattaching the fuel line. As I sucked up the fuel again I held my thumb over the end to hold the fuel, then had the service man press the rear start switch while I reattached the line. I hadnt gotten the line all the way on, when the engine began to run. This procedureto restart an engine after running out of fuelshould require only five minutes . Needless to say, from now on I will dip the fuel tank before I go anywhere, and as planned, I will be installing a fuel gauge. If this should ever happen to you, hopefully this information will provide an easy way to restart your engine after running out of fuel. Note: Because my bus was originally a GO Transit Bus on a single run from Oakville to Toronto (2-hour trip), it never required a fuel gauge. Happy bussin |
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