Recent posts

#11

Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Dc to dc charging

Last post by luvrbus - August 27, 2026, 04:52:53 PM

I didn't have solar panels ,I used the inverter with a Echo charger to charge the batteries, when the house batteries were charging the Echo charge would direct a small amount of the current to my starting batteries to. I did it on a 15amp service by reducing the charging amps on the inverter high amp charging would trip the breaker for me it was a good setup ,never had dead batteries on either side 

#12

Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: again with the ads that fi...

Last post by Krash - August 27, 2026, 04:30:28 PM

Most current browsers block ads/trackers by default.  You must be using a very old or poorly configured browser.  Firefox is generally considered to be the most secure browser, I never see ads here or anywhere else.

#13

Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Dc to dc charging

Last post by Iceni John - August 27, 2026, 02:44:14 PM

And if you have solar charging the house batteries, then this is even better! Now the solar is charging both house and start batteries. Nice.

That's exactly what my bus does.   My rooftop solar charges the house batteries that in turn charge the start batteries through a pair of LSL Products Ultra Trik-L-Start battery maintainers.   I got over eight years from my previous set of Group 31s, so I'm happy!

John     

#14

Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: again with the ads that fi...

Last post by freds - August 27, 2026, 12:22:00 PM

Hmmm, not seeing that with windows 11 and chrome

#15

Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Dc to dc charging

Last post by KF6-BusFan - August 27, 2026, 11:50:07 AM

While it is helpful to have a DC to DC converter. I tend to use mine the other way to maintain the start batteries.

And if you have solar charging the house batteries, then this is even better! Now the solar is charging both house and start batteries. Nice.

#16

Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / again with the ads that fill 1...

Last post by Dave5Cs - August 27, 2026, 10:55:10 AM

Their backkkkkk

#17

Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Dc to dc charging

Last post by freds - August 27, 2026, 10:18:07 AM

I use a Victron unit, the "Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger non-isolated".  https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-tr-smart-non-isolated

It is programmable through a phone app and bluetooth, where you tell it what kind of battery you have so it can adjust the voltages. It then behaves like a multi-stage charger. You an also tweak the charge voltages individually in great detail if you want.

This non-isolated version requires that your house battery and chassis battery (and alternator) share a negative. For me, it's all bonded to the body. This same unit can be had in an 'isolated' version where the negatives don't have to be in common at all.

I picked up 24 volts from the OTR air conditioning junction box near the front driver's side; through a quality 50-amp breaker; to the Orion; then the Orion's 12 volt output gets another breaker before hitting the house battery bank.

Works like a charm. It auto-senses whether the bus is running and shuts itself down when you are parked so it won't drain the chassis batteries. Mine does 30 amps into the house battery but they come in other smaller amperages also.

They also have a new "XS" version that does 50 amps even though it is physically smaller.  The original Orions can be had in combinations of 24 or 12 volts in, and 24 or 12 out; but they are fixed at the factory and cannot change. The XS has a version that can change both input and output voltage by programming. It looks like the XS only comes in a non-isolated (common negative) version.

I don't remember whether mine can be programmed with current limits, but it wasn't an issue for me since mine can only put out 30 amps (so it is probably pulling 15-20 amps).

Hope that helps. I've been 100% happy with it.

While it is helpful to have a DC to DC converter. I tend to use mine the other way to maintain the start batteries.

Given that it costs us over a dollar a mile in fuel to drive in our bus we tend to have short bursts of travel verses being on the road daily. So drawing 30 amps off of the vehicle is not much in relation to the house battery pack size.

Just food for thought...

#18

Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Here is another discussion...

Last post by luvrbus - August 27, 2026, 09:55:02 AM

I just price the 315's Toyo for coach I was looking at (Blu Bird) the tire price was $6840.00 those tires have $53.00  FET on each plus the sales tax best price I got was $8180.00 out the door, the frign Michelins were $12,022.00 out the door.The seller was kind enough to offer me $1600.00 off for the tires  ,it needs batteries also wait till he prices 6-8D lifelines   

#19

Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Dc to dc charging

Last post by KF6-BusFan - August 27, 2026, 06:54:59 AM

I use a Victron unit, the "Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger non-isolated".  https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-tr-smart-non-isolated

It is programmable through a phone app and bluetooth, where you tell it what kind of battery you have so it can adjust the voltages. It then behaves like a multi-stage charger. You an also tweak the charge voltages individually in great detail if you want.

This non-isolated version requires that your house battery and chassis battery (and alternator) share a negative. For me, it's all bonded to the body. This same unit can be had in an 'isolated' version where the negatives don't have to be in common at all.

I picked up 24 volts from the OTR air conditioning junction box near the front driver's side; through a quality 50-amp breaker; to the Orion; then the Orion's 12 volt output gets another breaker before hitting the house battery bank.

Works like a charm. It auto-senses whether the bus is running and shuts itself down when you are parked so it won't drain the chassis batteries. Mine does 30 amps into the house battery but they come in other smaller amperages also.

They also have a new "XS" version that does 50 amps even though it is physically smaller.  The original Orions can be had in combinations of 24 or 12 volts in, and 24 or 12 out; but they are fixed at the factory and cannot change. The XS has a version that can change both input and output voltage by programming. It looks like the XS only comes in a non-isolated (common negative) version.

I don't remember whether mine can be programmed with current limits, but it wasn't an issue for me since mine can only put out 30 amps (so it is probably pulling 15-20 amps).

Hope that helps. I've been 100% happy with it.

#20

Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Here is another discussion...

Last post by Jim Blackwood - August 27, 2026, 05:22:17 AM

What sort of prices are we likely to be seeing on the Toyos?

Jim